GOLFTOWN JOURNAL
Halfway Home
A nosh after nine
By Lee Pace
In the 1800s, David “Old Da” Anderson, at various times a caddie and greenskeeper on the links at St. Andrews Golf Club in Scotland, wheeled a wooden cart to the fourth green and sold ginger beer as golfers played the outward nine and then returned on the neighboring 15th hole. It was golf’s first refreshment stand.
Today golfers in the Auld Grey Toon get their sustenance from a small building behind the ninth green of the Old Course. The most popular item is a pork and haggis sausage roll — a secret mix of sausage meat and haggis, baked in puff pastry topped with poppy seeds. There’s no ginger beer, but the best-seller is the club’s very own Tom Morris 1821 Lager, which is brewed and canned nearby.
Elsewhere in Great Britain, golfers at Royal Dornoch warm themselves from the bracing North Sea with a stop at the halfway house by the ninth green for hot chocolate laced with Bailey’s Irish Creme. Nairn Golf Club is known for its stone cottage dating to 1877 — The Bothy was originally a storehouse for freshly caught salmon, and today golfers warm their hands by the fire and grab a bowl of fish chowder for the back nine.
Back on the near side of the pond, Pine Valley Golf Club in New Jersey is known for its turtle soup, Winged Foot Golf Club outside New York City for its peanut butter cookies, and Fishers Island Club on Long Island for its peanut butter, jelly and bacon sandwiches. Moving westward, Butler National outside Chicago is quite proud of its fish tacos (grouper, mahi or cod), and Castle Pines outside Denver for those thick and rich milkshakes made with Häagen-Dazs ice cream that collectively expanded the entire PGA Tour waistline during the days of The International from 1986-2006. The Olympic Club in San Francisco has one of America’s most iconic halfway house offerings — the Burger Dog features 4 ounces of beef shaped like a wiener and served on a freshly baked sourdough bun.
Closer to home in the Carolinas, Caledonia Golf & Fish Club in Pawleys Island serves a cup of spicy clam chowder made with a Manhattan-style, tomato-based broth from a cauldron by the ninth green. Beef sliders and chocolate chip cookies are the specialties at Wade Hampton Golf Club in Cashiers. Golfers at Old Chatham Golf Club just south of Durham barely break stride reaching into the refrigerator at the turn for one of longtime cook Chenille Pennix’s chicken wraps (BBQ, Caesar and ranch among the best-sellers), and the favorite at Old Town Club in Winston-Salem is chicken salad in a foam cup with a spoon.
Anyone who has visited a Discovery Land golf community is mesmerized and gluttonized by the opulent “comfort stations” manned by a chef and positioned on each nine. Mountaintop in Cashiers is one such Discovery property, and its signature treat is beef jerky, which starts with locally sourced beef and is pulled, seasoned and dried on-site. Other standards include a frozen margarita machine, help-yourself beer fridge, cured duck, warmed nuts, Kobe beef sliders and a sundae bar.
Forest Creek Golf Club has one of the top halfway house menus in the Sandhills. Golfers enjoy homemade cookies at the turn on its North and South courses, and during the winter a pot of chili is kept simmering. And when golfers get to the 12th hole on each course, they’ll find a barrel of iced-down apples for refreshment.
“No matter whether you’re winning or losing, a crisp, cold apple really hits the spot,” says Waddy Stokes, the club’s head professional from its opening in 1996 through 2011.
There’s also a vintage Cretors Popcorn machine in the men’s locker room — it just so happens one of the company’s founding family members belongs to the club.
The dining scene in the Sandhills has been recently enhanced by a food truck stationed at Pinehurst No. 10, the Tom Doak-designed course that opened in May 2024. Maniac Grill fashions its name from the “Maniac Hill” moniker bestowed on the Pinehurst practice range in the early 1900s. The name on the side of the truck is accented with the slogan “Crazy good food.” For now the Maniac Grill will make its home at No. 10 with appearances around the resort and town on other occasions.
The headliner? A brisket sandwich with freshly smoked beef topped with gruyere cheese and caramelized onions, served on a crispy baguette loaf. And for dessert, peach ice cream ensconced in fresh sugar cookies. Because No. 10 is essentially a walking-only course, Pinehurst chef Thierry Debailleul designed the menu for items to be carried and eaten in one hand.
“The challenge was to create hand-carried, put-in-your-pocket items,” he says. The grill also serves a turkey sandwich with a peach barbecue sauce, hearkening, Debailleul says, to the days in the early 1900s when the land where the golf course sits was a peach orchard.
“I wanted to have a food truck forever,” says Pinehurst owner Bob Dedman Jr. “Now we have one, and it’s phenomenal.”