Dissecting a Cocktail

DISSECTING A COCKTAIL

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Saturday Night Wrist Punch

Story and Photograph by Tony Cross

Before the cocktail was created, punch was the globally popular, mixed distilled spirits drink. We can thank the British sailors who manned vessels for the East India Company for spreading the news. I first learned about punch from cocktail historian David Wondrich’s book, Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flaming Bowl. The recipes and techniques in it helped me find the proper balance between spirit, sugar, citrus, water and spice — the makeup of punch. Given the inevitable barrage of holiday parties, you can really shine as a host by offering a punch with a beautiful balance between sweet and sour. With some advanced preparation, your guests can simply help themselves from the party bowl. Years back, I took an old recipe — Major Bird’s Brandy Punch, from 1708 — and put my own spin on it.

Specifications

Oleo-saccharum*

16 ounces water

8 ounces fresh lemon juice

3 cups pineapple-infused cognac (I recommend Pierre-Ferrand 1840)**

1 cup pineapple-infused Jamaican rum  (I strongly recommend Smith & Cross)**

4 ounces Aperol

1/2 pineapple diced into 1-inch by 1-inch cubes

Lemon wheels

Nutmeg

Bundt pan or large ice molds

Execution

Ice: fill small bundt pan with water and freeze overnight.

*Oleo-saccharum: Peel the skin of four lemons, placing them in a bowl and adding 1 cup of sugar (by weight). Muddle the sugar into the peels, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let sit overnight in the fridge.

**Pineapple-infused spirits: Dice 1 pineapple and add to medium-sized glass container. Add 3 cups of cognac and 1 cup of rum to the  container; seal tightly and leave at room temperature overnight (24 hours is ideal).

Punch: Place oleo-saccharum in a punch bowl. Add lemon juice and stir until sugar completely dissolves. Add 1 cup (8 ounces) of water, stir, and remove lemon peels from bowl. Fine strain infused spirits into punch bowl. Add remaining cup of water. Stir. Take a large ice mold and place in punch bowl. Add lemon wheels and pineapple pieces for garnish. Shave fresh nutmeg either into punch bowl or per serving.

(Note: The ice and infusions need to be made a night in advance.)

Dissecting A Cocktail

DISSECTING A COCKTAIL

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The Art of Choke

Story and Photograph by Tony Cross

In 2009 bartenders Kirk Estopinal and Maksym Pazuniak released a very small cocktail book titled Rogue Cocktails. The book has a short list of drinks from a few different bartenders and almost all of the recipes are head-scratchers. Four years after its release, a friend lent me the book and I made sure to copy every recipe down in my personal cocktail pamphlet.

The drinks didn’t all make sense on paper but were intriguing nonetheless. Certain cocktails needed “5 swaths of lemon peel” or three different types of amaro with “15 drops of 50/50 bitters.” Long before the days of using Instagram to find strange and envelope-pushing drinks, Rogue Cocktails was the place to look.

One of my favorites is the “art of choke,” by bartender Kyle Davidson at the legendary Chicago bar, The Violet Hour. The combination of rum, Cynar and green Chartreuse caught my eye. That and the fact that I had never seen a recipe for a cocktail with juice that was stirred. “You can do that?” I thought. I recently listened to a podcast where Davidson explains how he created the cocktail while on a bartender swap with the New York City bar, Death & Co.

“The real estate in New York is different than Chicago, and the folks at D&C were doing serious volume. The service bar would get so overwhelmed that even the best bartenders would have to pass tickets over,” he said. “Stephen Cole, who is the best service bartender I’ve ever worked next to, can handle anything, but even he had to pass me a ‘dealer’s choice’ ticket of a rum and bitter. The first iteration was 2 (ounces) of white rum, 1 (ounce) of Cynar, with a green Chartreuse rinse and a mint leaf on top. And I thought, ‘Hey, there might be something here.’” Davidson quickly wrote the specs down in his own little pamphlet and continued serving drinks. He admits that he doesn’t remember how he arrived at the final specs but does remember being a little nervous about adding fresh juice to a stirred drink. As they say in Rogue, the final result proves, “There is no right way to make a cocktail, but there are many wrong ways.”

SPECIFICATIONS

1 ounce white rum

1 ounce Cynar

1/8 ounce lime juice

1/8 ounce demerara syrup (2:1)

Heavy 1/4 ounce green Chartreuse

Fresh mint sprigs

EXECUTION

Add all ingredients to a mixing glass with 2 sprigs of mint. Muddle and steep for 30 seconds. Fill with ice and stir until chilled. Strain into a rocks glass over one large ice cube. Garnish with mint sprig.

Dissecting a Cocktail

DISSECTING A COCKTAIL

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Big Trouble in Oaxaca

Story and Photograph by Tony Cross

Amanda Schuster’s Signature Cocktails is a beautiful cocktail recipe book that pays homage to older cocktails, as well as those that will be soon. I’ve been in the process of mentally preparing myself for a brick and mortar bar of my own, and every now and then I come across a drink that I visualize serving in my fantasy lounge. “Big Trouble in Oaxaca” is one of them, courtesy of Schuster’s book.

The name of the drink pays homage to the ’80s movie Big Trouble in Little China. It’s essentially a riff on a margarita, and what first got my attention is how it glowed on the page. Bright and fluorescent, its hue reminds me of when I’ve had one too many B vitamins . . . if you know, you know. Created in 2018 at the restaurant Drink Kong by bartender Livio Morena, this cocktail seems to fit the bar’s trademark ’70s and ’80s nostalgic theme. The neon color comes courtesy of Midori melon liqueur (which was first popular in the late 1970s) and was used “because in 2018 it just seemed so dated and weird that it might be the perfect way to attract attention to the bar, and also show love for Japanese culture,” says Morena.

Personally, I can see this drink catching the eye of anyone in a dimly lit cocktail lounge. The fact that it tastes amazing only solidifies the odds of me serving this one night as a drink special. Hypothetically, of course.

SPECIFICATIONS

1 1/2 ounces tequila blanco

3/4 ounce pineapple liqueur

1/2 ounce Midori liqueur

1/2 ounce green ancho chili liqueur

1 ounce fresh lemon juice

1/2 ounce sugar

EXECUTION

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker, add ice and shake hard for 10 seconds. Strain into a chilled rocks glass over a large cube. No garnish. 

Dissecting a Cocktail

DISSECTING A COCKTAIL

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The Green Beret

Story and Photograph by Tony Cross

Almost a decade ago, I began piddling around with a cocktail to honor my father. He served 20 years in the Army as a Special Forces medic. I knew before creating the drink that I wanted to call it The Green Beret. My next thought was that it seemed appropriate to include green chartreuse in the mix. And whiskey had to be the base. That was a given, since it’s my dad’s favorite spirit. I decided to create a spin on the Boulevardier using equal parts TOPO’s (a Chapel Hill distillery that is sadly no longer with us) Eight Oak Whiskey, cacao nib-infused Campari, and sweet vermouth, rinsing the inside of the rocks glass with the chartreuse. Even though the drink was a hit on our cocktail menu, I wasn’t completely happy with it — the chartreuse wasn’t adding anything to the cocktail.

So, I decided to revisit The Green Beret. This go-round, I switched a few things up. First, the whiskey. Rittenhouse Rye is a go-to when I need a whiskey with a backbone, but one that will still let other flavors come through. Next was the chocolate. Instead of infusing cacao into Campari, I opted for Angostura’s Cocoa Bitters, which wasn’t available when I originally created the drink. I fat-washed the Angostura with brown butter. This gives the bitters a creamy texture and adds nuttiness to the chocolate. Lastly, I took organic espresso beans — about one barspoon — and added them to my glass vessel when stirring all of the ingredients. That allows the oils from the espresso beans to make an appearance in the drink. I’m happy to report that The Green Beret earned its promotion.

SPECIFICATIONS

1 1/4 ounces Rittenhouse Rye

1 ounce Campari

1 ounce Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth

4 dashes brown butter-washed Angostura Cocoa Bitters*

1 bar spoon organic espresso (or coffee) beans

2 dashes saline

Garnish: orange peel

*Brown butter-washed bitters: You can do this to regular Angostora bitters, too. Pour a 4-ounce bottle of bitters into a small glass container. Place 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a pan, bringing to a simmer. Continue to cook the butter until it turns brown. As soon as it does, take it immediately off the heat and pour it into the glass container. Give the bitters/butter mixture a quick stir and let cool. Once cool, seal the container and place it in the freezer. Let it sit overnight. The next day you will notice the butter has solidified. Use a knife to break a hole in the butter and strain the bitters out through a cheesecloth or coffee filter (using a coffee filter will take much longer). Pour butter-washed bitters back into its original bottle.

EXECUTION

Combine all ingredients into a chilled mixing vessel, add ice and stir until your gut tells you that it’s cold enough and properly diluted. Strain into a chilled rocks glass over ice. Express oils from an orange peel over the cocktail and place into drink.

Dissecting a Cocktail

Dissecting a Cocktail

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Chartreuse Swizzle

Story and Photograph by Tony Cross

In 2003, San Francisco bartender Marcovaldo Dionysos entered his city’s cocktail competition for the fifth year in a row, pining for top honors. The contest was sponsored by the French herbal liqueur Green Chartreuse. According to cocktail historian Robert Simonson, Dionysos considered sitting out the year’s competition. “I didn’t have any great ideas,” Dionysos remembers. “I decided to make something fun and went in a tropical direction.” His idea nabbed first place that year and has since popped up in cocktail bars across the country and the world, becoming a modern classic.

Dionysos’ cocktail, the “Chartreuse Swizzle,” combined the herbal liqueur with pineapple and lime juices, Velvet Falernum (a low-ABV rum liqueur made with almonds, cloves and lime) and mint. Commonly made with rum, “swizzles” can be potent. They’re usually mixed with fruit juices and a sweetener, built and mixed in the drinking glass with a swizzle stick. Originally, these pronged sticks came from trees native to Bermuda, but the garden-variety lookalikes are made of metal, plastic or wood. One of my first introductions to Green Chartreuse was Dionysos’ Swizzle. For such a high proof (and pricy) spirit, it’s a little shocking how popular it became. What’s not surprising is how the four ingredients complement each other for a perfect tiki-themed sipper.

Specifications

1 1/2 ounces Green Chartreuse

1 ounce fresh pineapple juice

3/4 ounce fresh lime juice

1/2 ounce Velvet Falernum

Garnish: mint sprigs

Execution

Combine all ingredients into a Collins glass and add pebble (or crushed) ice. Insert a swizzle stick or barspoon into the mixture, rubbing your hands together to “swizzle” the stick until frost appears outside the glass. Add more ice and garnish with mint.  PS

Tony Cross owns and operates Reverie Cocktails, a cocktail delivery service that delivers kegged cocktails for businesses to pour on tap — but once a bartender, always a bartender.

Dissecting a Cocktail

Dissecting a Cocktail

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Feel Good Hit of the Summer

Story and Photograph by Tony Cross

I started a small series on Reverie Cocktail’s Instagram page that I call “Vibe & Imbibe.” In each clip I pull out one of my vinyl records, give it a spin and create a cocktail from scratch. Some drinks were classics, while others were my own creation. In one episode I whipped up one of tiki legend Jeff Berry’s cocktails, the “Pago Pago.” The cocktail has a Puerto Rican rum base, with a touch of crème de cacao, Green Chartreuse, lime and pineapple. I first heard of the drink scrolling through Instagram (oddly enough), where Leandro DiMonriva (The Educated Barfly) made one. It looked so good that I did my own video of it. After shooting it, I decided to tinker with the measurements. I split the rum base with two Jamaican rums and made every ingredient equal parts. In the Pago Pago created, I used Queens of the Stone Age’s “Feel Good Hit of the Summer” from their second album Rated R as the background music. The song title stuck as the name of my new sleight of hand.

 

Specifications

1/2 ounce Smith & Cross

1/2 ounce Appleton Estate

1/2 ounce Green Chartreuse

1/2 ounce Tempus Fugit crème de cacao

1/2 ounce lime juice

3-5 chunks of fresh pineapple

 

Directions

Muddle pineapple chunks in a shaking vessel. Add remaining ingredients and ice cubes. Shake hard for 10-15 seconds and double strain into a chilled Nick & Nora glass. No garnish.  PS

 

Tony Cross owns and operates Reverie Cocktails, a cocktail delivery service that delivers kegged cocktails for businesses to pour on tap — but once a bartender, always a bartender.