Birds of Paradise

Exploring a hidden Carolina Bay

Photographs by Laura L. Gingerich

Carefully holding her camera above the surface of the water, Laura Gingerich waded into the forest swamp up to her armpits. Her feet sank into the slippery rot and muck on the bottom. Like quicksand, the more she moved, the more the ground swallowed her legs, nearly reaching her knees. Beyond a stand of cypress, she saw a clearing. By then the water was touching her chin. Turning a corner, they appeared in front of her. It was a robust, diverse community of birds, a breeding spot for snowy egret, great egret, great blue heron, green heron, cormorant and anhinga. Awe replaced trepidation. In the months that followed, Gingerich used a jon boat, a kayak and a canoe to return over and over again to the swamp, gathering photographs of this rare inland rookery in Robeson County.

“It’s one of the clay-based Carolina Bays,” says Jeff Marcus of the Nature Conservancy. “Carolina Bays are these unique geological features, rare isolated wetlands that occur primarily in the coastal plain of North and South Carolina. They’re all elliptical in shape and all kind of oriented to the northwest and southeast. It’s been a hotly debated topic as to what the origins of these things are. People have speculated everything from meteor impacts to dinosaur or whale wallows. The most prevalent theory is that it has more to do with the wind and wave actions when the Coastal Plain was a shallow sea.”

This bay, like many others, is protected by the Nature Conservancy. “What makes this site interesting is that most of those birds primarily are kind of coastal breeders. They’re found in the greatest abundance right at the coast, nesting on barrier islands, so it is somewhat unusual to have a large rookery so far inland,” says Marcus. “It’s great to get people more interested and aware and excited about all the natural history we have right in our own backyard. We don’t always appreciate what a special and unique place it is to live where we do.”

Anyone interested in visiting a site like the rookery in Robeson County or in becoming a member of the Nature Conservancy can call the Sandhills field office at (910) 246-0300.

Shooting Star

Whether capturing images of golf or war, no one did it better than Pinehurst photographer John Hemmer

By Bill Case

The grammar school dropout was forever on the move. There were times he bolted into the darkroom of his employer’s photographic studio to hide from an approaching truant officer. More often, the errand boy ran pell-mell to the offices of New York City newspapers and magazines, lugging a pouch stuffed with the newsy photographs of the day snapped by the studio’s owner, Edwin Levick, and his seven assistant photographers.

The success of Levick’s photographic services business depended on speed. The first good images of a newsworthy event to reach the syndicated media were the ones most likely to be published, and pay off. So, Brooklyn-reared John Hemmer — the dropout, the errand boy — learned long before he clicked his first shutter that, in the photography trade, there was no substitute for being in the right place at the right time.

In 1910, when Hemmer was just 18, one of Levick’s assistant photographers incorrectly loaded the powder in the flash lamp of one of the cameras. The magnesium powder could be nasty stuff. Careless photographers were known to set rooms, or even themselves, on fire. The resulting explosion singed the face of a supervisor, who fired the assistant on the spot. Hemmer was standing nearby. The agitated boss thrust the camera at the teenager and commanded, “Get some pictures, Hemmer!” He didn’t stop for 60 years.

With a working knowledge of photography gained from Levick, a transplanted Englishman, and his agency’s other cameramen, Hemmer raced around New York again, but this time with cameras and equipment in tow instead of a satchel. Like Mozart to music, he took to the work immediately. The cutthroat world of syndicated photography wasn’t for the timid. Veteran competitors told him to “get lost,” but the feisty Hemmer couldn’t be bullied. “If I didn’t fight back, or think up new tricks, I went back without any pictures, and that was a sure way to get fired,” he said later. His determination was fueled by an innate self-confidence. Hemmer told The Pilot’s Mary Evelyn de Nissoff that, during his New York days, when he arose each morning, he “felt like shouting from the housetop, ‘I’m John Hemmer!’”

The sharp-elbowed photographers were forever conjuring up new methods to scoop one another. Hemmer recalled the novel way his well-heeled competitors from Hearst Publications covered the arrival of major ships. “The Hearst boys started using carrier pigeons to relay their film from the press boat back to the city, and their pictures were usually in print by the time the rest of us got back to the dock,” Hemmer said. The system, however, had its flaws. There were times, Hemmer chuckled, when the pigeons “circled the ship and lit on the mast.”

As the agency’s junior photographer, Hemmer was often sent to what Levick, a premier maritime photographer, considered secondary assignments. One was golf — a sport barely out of its infancy in America. Hemmer’s first tournament was the 1911 U.S. Amateur, held at the Apawamis Club in Rye, New York. His golf photos were barely noticed until the 1913 U. S. Open at The Country Club in Brookline, Massachusetts. The routine assignment became a godsend when a 20-year-old amateur and former caddie at the host club, Francis Ouimet, emerged the winner. Ouimet’s unlikely playoff upset over the British duo of Ted Ray and the incomparable Harry Vardon, written about some 90 years later in the book The Greatest Game Ever Played, jump-started more than just golf in America — it jump-started John Hemmer, too. His photographs of Ouimet’s victory at Brookline were in high demand. Suddenly, Hemmer found himself catapulted into the upper ranks of the game’s photographers.

When an important golf tournament popped up on the schedule, Levick would turn to Hemmer. In the early days, Hemmer and his fellow shutterbugs seldom strayed from the clubhouse until the players finished their rounds. The winners lined up for pictures. “No one had ever thought of going out on the course until one day I got interested in seeing what I could photograph out there,” Hemmer recalled. He began lugging his bulky gear, 60 pounds or more, onto the course to capture images of key shots, revolutionizing tournament photography. Respected by his colleagues, Hemmer became the first president of the New York Press Photographers Association.

Though the German-Irish kid from Flatbush had an expertise in sports photography, he swore off baseball after an unnerving experience at the Polo Grounds. Hemmer was in the process of shooting the Giants’ star pitcher (and future Hall of Famer), Rube Marquard, warming up on the sidelines. Suddenly Marquard fired a fastball that whizzed close by the photographer’s head. “Don’t you ever take my picture again!” warned the irate southpaw, who harbored a superstition, shared by many of the era’s ballplayers, that photography constituted a sort of black art that could bring ill to those who consented to have their picture taken.

Hemmer married Anna Flynn in 1918, just prior to serving in World War I as a Signal Corps cameraman attached to the American Expeditionary Force Siberia. This forgotten theater of “The Great War” involved the efforts of 7,950 Army officers and enlisted men to protect the equipment and supplies the United States had sent to the Tsarist regime from being seized by the Bolsheviks. The Expedition also assisted the Czechoslovak Legion in its evacuation from Russia. By all accounts, Siberia’s bleak tundra made for a miserable posting as the freezing soldiers continually faced shortages of food and supplies. Hemmer experienced a  harrowing encounter crossing Siberia by railroad: “The train broke down. It was 60 below outside,” he recalled. “I tried to go out and make pictures of the train in the snow, but I couldn’t. The wolves wouldn’t let me off the train.” Hemmer managed to emerge from his war service unscathed, and in 1919, returned to his New York job with Levick. In 1923, John and Anna celebrated the birth of their son, John L. Hemmer.

In July, 1924, following the death of Pinehurst photographer Edmund Merrow, Richard Tufts approached Levick in search of a photographer for the resort’s Mid-South golf tournament, to be held in late October. Tufts also needed a man for a number of Pinehurst events scheduled for March. Levick agreed to provide a cameraman for both, then failed to produce one in October. A disappointed Tufts wrote that the no-show for the Mid-South breached “very definite arrangements.” Levick cavalierly dismissed the blown assignment as being not worth the trouble. “It would have to be more tangible than just a single tournament to justify even an assistant at Pinehurst,” he responded.

While Tufts may have seethed at the offhand treatment, Levick nonetheless possessed working relationships with all of the Eastern newspapers. Tufts decided to let the agency cover Pinehurst’s March 1925 events as planned.  On March 23rd, Levick advised the resort owner that his selected assistant was on route to Pinehurst, assuring him, “My assistant, John Hemmer, who will cover the assignment, knows golf thoroughly and has been with us now some sixteen or seventeen years.”

Four days after Hemmer’s arrival, Tufts wrote Levick. “We are very favorably impressed by him [Hemmer] and are looking forward to good results from his work here.” Though Hemmer’s first stint in Pinehurst was brief, it was long enough for the buttoned-up Tufts to conclude that he wanted the New Yorker back. Always on time, nattily attired in dark suit, white shirt, vest and tie, and attentive to Tufts’ desire that photos be promptly forwarded to resort guests’ hometown newspapers, Hemmer quickly ingratiated himself with the boss. The guests liked him, too. Easygoing behind the camera, Hemmer’s mugging and quips never failed to bring a smile to those he was photographing. And Levick promised Tufts that his assistant’s Pinehurst pictures would be displayed in even more  newspapers the following season.

By July 1925, Tufts was inclined to cut out the middleman. He suggested to Hemmer, “if you feel you are in position yourself to give us good publicity we might be interested in making arrangements with you rather than Mr. Levick on somewhat the same basis.” He also suggested that Hemmer consider spending the entire winter season (October to May) in Pinehurst, promising that he and connected persons in the community could funnel plenty of business his way.

Enchanted by Pinehurst, Hemmer leaped at the offer. He advised Tufts that he was making arrangements with a firm to place Pinehurst photos “not only in the metropolitan papers, but all through the east, west, north, and south.” Soon, John, Anna and John Jr. were snugly housed in Pinehurst’s Laurel Cottage, where the Given Outpost is now — the cottage was razed in 1934 to make way for Pinehurst’s post office. He opened “Hemmer’s Photo Shop,” initially in the Harvard Building, thereafter at the Carolina Hotel.

The diversity of Pinehurst, Inc.’s activities afforded Hemmer a wide variety of subjects for his lens. Photographing sporting activities like golf (particularly the North and South tournaments), shooting at the gun club, tennis, gymkhanas and horse racing constituted the bulk of his work. Hemmer took a raft of  publicity pictures at the Tufts’ brand new golf course at Pine Needles, including several of Donald Ross hitting shots. The many celebrities that found their way to Pinehurst couldn’t leave town without posing for Hemmer. Images of the Tufts’ agricultural operations, like the piggery and the farm’s cattle, were snapped by Hemmer’s all-seeing camera. Leonard Tufts (Richard’s father), proud of  his renowned Ayrshire cattle breeding operation, even suggested to the photographer that if famous people like Will Rogers or Gloria Swanson were in residence, “you should get a picture of them milking the old cow” — Leonard’s prized Ayrshire he lovingly named Tootsy Mitchell.

Hemmer also created a remarkable series of photographs  featuring  Pinehurst’s African-American caddies. Colorful loopers with sobriquets like “Dr. Buzzard,” “Hog Eye,” “Calvin Coolidge” and “Dr. Hawk” captured by his weather-beaten camera make up a collection of images that ranks among the Tufts Archives’ most cherished. Hemmer’s horseracing photos drew particular admiration given his uncanny ability to snap galloping steeds with all four hooves airborne. Hemmer also arranged for his Pinehurst photographs to be transformed into postcards. The dissemination of the hand-colored cards, designed to portray Pinehurst’s peaceful and idyllic atmosphere, provided an invaluable boon to the resort’s promotional efforts.

A February 1926 article in The Pilot gushed, “Mr. Hemmer . . . has beaten all previous records for the number of Pinehurst pictures published during a season. Every real newsstand in America puts out some paper every day exhibiting specimens of Mr. Hemmer’s art and genius. He is giving this section the highest type of publicity it has ever enjoyed.”

During summers, Hemmer would return to New York, where he continued the hunt for newsworthy subjects. He found a good one on a cloudy morning in May, 1927 at New York’s Roosevelt Field, where a sandy-haired Midwestern pilot named Charles Lindbergh was preparing to take off in his daunting attempt to make the first aerial crossing of the Atlantic. Learning that Lindbergh had completely exhausted his funds in preparing for the epic flight, a sympathetic Hemmer passed the hat among the assembled media types in order to scrape together sufficient cash to buy sandwiches and a thermos of coffee for the young flyer’s journey.

Much like Forrest Gump, Hemmer seemed to always be on hand, playing a contributing role at historically important events. His timing was once again impeccable at  the 1930 U.S. Amateur at Merion Golf Club where Bobby Jones’ 8 and 7 victory over Eugene Homans provided the last of his four major championship victories that year. Later Hemmer would say that photographing Jones’ Grand Slam was his greatest thrill.

In Pinehurst, Hemmer immersed himself in civic activities. He became commander of the local American Legion post and a director of the Chamber of Commerce. Though never a golfer himself, Hemmer did gain a reputation as a crack gin rummy player and inveterate hunter of arrowheads. After Laurel Cottage was razed, Hemmer moved his family across the street to  Cherokee Cottage (behind the Theatre Building and now the site of the Maples Building). Hemmer’s reputation continued to grow. Bob Harlow, American golf’s greatest promoter, and the founder and publisher of Golf World magazine, would write in 1938, “John Hemmer is the best newspaper photographer in America, and has been for a number of years. He has the rare combination of being a great artist with the camera, a fine judge of news values in what the editors of the tabloids call the ‘pix,’ and he can write captions with any headline scribe and hold his own.”

Why Hemmer decided to curtail his work in Pinehurst and join the New York Daily News prior to World War II is something of a mystery. Hemmer adored  Pinehurst and had become a fixture in the community. With the Great Depression not yet in America’s rear view mirror, a slowdown in business at the resort may have been a factor. Maybe he missed the bustle of the big city, or perhaps the Daily News offered financial terms Hemmer couldn’t refuse. In any event, he kept a foothold in Pinehurst, visiting often and taking an occasional assignment. He also retained ownership of the Hemmer Photo Shop, placing talented 34-year-old Emerson Humphrey in charge of operations.

Whatever his reasons, Hemmer’s return to New York made for the most exciting period of his career. Once World War II began in earnest, he was frequently aloft, miles out over the Atlantic, in the Daily News’ single-engine airplane, snapping photographs of ships burning, listing or sinking from the deadly effects of U-boat torpedoes. The newspaper, Hemmer mused, “never sent us out unless the weather was terrible.”

In his efforts to obtain front page-worthy  photos, Hemmer sometimes went too far. He often encouraged the pilot of the Daily News’ craft to repeatedly circle a wrecked ship for “just one more shot.” Invariably running low on fuel, on one occasion the pilot was forced to ditch the plane in the ocean. Photographer and pilot were safely rescued, and Hemmer somehow managed to keep his speed-graphic camera and plates dry.  Pushing the envelope brought Hemmer and the Daily News trouble when the paper published a 1941 aerial photograph of a war-damaged British battleship limping into New York’s harbor, raising the ire of an incensed secretary of the Navy, who felt wartime censorship regulations had been violated.

Sometimes his risk-taking resulted in memorable images of the war. His aerial shot of the British vessel King George V’s, arrival (with British ambassador to the United States Lord Halifax aboard) in the Chesapeake Bay won Hemmer the “Best Photographic Award” of 1941. Wendell Willkie, the recently defeated Republican candidate for president, presented the award.

Missing “sand in his shoes,” Hemmer returned to the tranquility of Pinehurst in 1944, residing full-time at Cherokee Cottage. Emerson Humphrey moved on, opening a photo shop in Southern Pines, and Hemmer relocated his studio to an outbuilding adjacent to his cottage.

Dividing his time between performing his usual photography work in Pinehurst and new employment with North Carolina’s State Conservation and Development organization in Raleigh, Hemmer became the official photographer for the state. For half of the year, he would blitz North Carolina, “from Manteo to Murphy,” as he put it, taking promotional photos. “We made some enemies along the way,” he would later admit, “because if the weather happened to be bad so that we couldn’t take color pictures in a certain place, we had to move along to the next place anyway.” His award-winning work continued to bring Hemmer into contact with notable personalities. Covering the theatrical production of The Lost Colony on the Outer Banks, Hemmer snapped several photos of the tall, amiable young man playing the role of Sir Walter Raleigh — a little-known actor named Andy Griffith.

His promotional pictures of North Carolina appeared in newspapers and magazines throughout America. Son John Jr., who followed in his father’s footsteps by becoming the photo editor of the Tucson Citizen newspaper, said his father effectively became the state’s ambassador, and that he “lived and breathed North Carolina.”

But golf photography remained the go-to staple of Hemmer’s work. Raleigh News & Observer reporter Joe Holloway said, “The eyes belonging to Johnny Hemmer have focused cameras on more golfers than any eyes in the world.” Golf World’s Harlow turned the camera around on Hemmer, making him the cover boy of a 1951 edition of the magazine.

Throughout the ’50s and ’60s, Hemmer was every bit as much a fixture in Pinehurst as the Putter Boy statue. He made friends with another generation of Pinehurst residents, including Gen. George C. Marshall. Lifetime Pinehurst resident Nancy Smith participated in equestrian events in her youth and was a target of the veteran cameraman’s lens, especially at the Sunday gymkhana events held adjacent to the Carolina Hotel. “I think of him with a smile on his face,” recollects Smith.

His outward affability masked pain, both physical and psychic. Wife Anna died in 1960, and Hemmer remained a widower the rest of his life. While in New Jersey, photographing the 1961 transfer of the U.S. Battleship North Carolina from the United States to the state of North Carolina, Hemmer fell off of a raised platform and was laid up for weeks after severely damaging his side, and breaking several bones. In another mishap, he was kicked in the leg and face by a thundering thoroughbred in an effort to rescue a fellow photographer who had meandered onto the track in the midst of a steeplechase race. The accident accentuated the deterioration of Hemmer’s vision, a problem that gradually increased in severity as the ’60s unfolded.

Though slowing in his 70s, Hemmer remained the resort’s go-to photographer. Requiring assistance in his photo shop, he hired a 14-year-old Pinehurst High School schoolboy, Don McKenzie, in 1966 to help out after school. Laboring  in Hemmer’s darkroom, pasting captions onto photos, escorting his mentor to the Southern Pines’ railroad station to arrange for shipment of photos to Northern newspapers, and toting battered equipment to assignments, McKenzie absorbed much about the photography business.

And though young McKenzie had yet to take a picture, he learned about photographic composition by observing his boss taking golf course photos at the Pinehurst resort. “Mr. Hemmer was the only one allowed to drive his car on the courses, and I would go with him to help set up,” McKenzie remembers. “When he took golf course pictures, he usually had something in the foreground, like a tree limb, then a middle ground — usually  the subject of the picture — then something that caught your eye in the background, maybe the clubhouse.”

McKenzie also marveled at the veteran cameraman’s ability to take great pictures with out-of-date equipment. One ancient camera had reached a stage where it was letting unwanted light into the picture frame. Rather than purchase a replacement, McKenzie says, “Mr. Hemmer simply taped over the opening where the light was coming in and the camera worked just fine.” McKenzie’s experience with Hemmer helped inspire him to embark on his own lifelong photographic career in Southern Pines.

Despite the loss of acuity in his sight, Hemmer kept taking pictures throughout the ’60s. But it became a losing battle. Blindness was rapidly approaching. Around the time that the Tufts family sold the resort to the Diamondhead Corporation (1970), Hemmer snapped his final picture, ending a 45-year association with Richard Tufts and Pinehurst, Inc. For a while, Hemmer was able to remain in his Cherokee Lodge home. Longtime Pinehurst resident Bonnie Mosbrook recalls him in dark glasses waving his white cane high over his head to alert approaching motorists that he was intending to walk across a village intersection.

Failing health forced Hemmer into the Sandhills Nursing Center in December 1973. His son arranged for the sale of Cherokee Lodge in March of 1974. Less than two months later, the home was destroyed by fire. His former photography studio was salvaged, though it, too, was eventually razed. Though no longer part of the action in Pinehurst, he was far from forgotten and a stream of tributes flowed his way. When the World Golf Hall of Fame was established in Pinehurst, its photo room was named the “John Hemmer Gallery.” A Hemmer trophy for the year’s best golf picture by a news photographer was also instituted. On his 85th birthday in 1977, the Given Memorial Library’s Tufts Archives arranged a “Hemmer Exhibit” of his photos.

After five years in the nursing home, Hemmer’s funds were exhausted. Friend and legendary fellow North Carolina photographer, Hugh Morton. rushed to his rescue, organizing a fund so that Hemmer could meet his expenses. Among those chipping in were Gov. Terry Sanford, Andy Griffith, and the White House News Photographers.

John Hemmer passed away on October 6, 1981, at age 89 but, housed in the Tufts Archives, 85,000 of his photographs can still see the light of day.  PS

Pinehurst resident Bill Case is PineStraw’s history man. He can be reached at Bill.Case@thompsonhine.com.

East Meets West Down South

The house of a thousand stories chronicles a career abroad

By Deborah Salomon    Photographs by John Gessner

They met in a used furniture store in Columbia, South Carolina. Catherine was looking for a dresser. John was seeking distraction. He was from splashy Miami, “When it was young and empty.” She was from Albemarle — a doctor’s beautiful daughter raised in a gracious Southern home with wraparound porch, shaded by magnolias. Their life, a magic carpet ride through far-away kingdoms, plays out in a brick house on Massachusetts Avenue, attributed to society architect Aymar Embury II and Louis Lachine, an engineer associated with the Highland Pines Inn who, in the 1920s, built 10 spec houses near the  resort hotel.

Now, this one runneth over not with Southern heirlooms but Asiana, Africana and a Marco Polo-worthy trove. John and Catherine Earp display more than a painting here and a table there. As a Ford Motor Company executive in the 1990s John was posted worldwide, primarily in Asia. “What we have collected is more about memories than things,” he says. Still, shipping their massive collection from posting to posting and finally to retirement in Southern Pines boggles the mind.

But with Ford footing the bill, why not?

John was in the Army when he met Catherine. After discharge, he started with Ford in Cincinnati, Ohio, then Kansas City, Missouri, soon moving into the glamorous motor sports division. After two years, company hierarchy tapped him to open a new market, as director for Ford Motor Company in Korea.

“Is there a cookbook for that?” John asked.

No, but you’ll figure it out, the suits replied.

Catherine’s reaction: “Korea . . . where’s that? But I was excited, not apprehensive at all.”

Neither had a passport.

Off they went, first to a fabulous hotel for two months, then to an equally fabulous house overlooking a river, where they lived for two years.

The house needed furniture. Ford provided a $15,000 allowance. Catherine and John were already auction hounds. Oreos were an underground prize but in Korea they found “markets” similar to famous Les Puces (Fleas) in Paris. “The Koreans wanted everything new and modern; they weren’t interested in their grandmothers’ stuff,” Catherine discovered. This younger generation unloaded gems of the simple, practical Korean style — notably a stunning high-rise armoire in the living room, heavy chests meant for blankets and sleeping mats elsewhere. Some pieces, like the living room sofa with a teak frame, were made-to-order with distinctively Korean lines.

Then came Japan and Thailand, more markets, more décor finds.

Western eyes blur Asian styles. The black lacquer cabinet in the dining room is actually a Chinese wedding chest, functioning like an American hope chest where brides stored linen gifts. Catherine points out her many elephant motifs emblematic of Thailand, beginning with 10 carved specimens parading across the living room mantel. Fronting a stretch of small-paned windows, vaguely British along with the coffered ceilings, stands a row of alabaster Buddhas from a Burmese monastery. Exporting them required untangling red tape with government ministries. “It’s a sign of respect to Buddha,” John says. “Having them here is a rare thing.”

But because they lived in several Buddhist countries, “We also have a reverence for him,” Catherine adds.

Bells, bells everywhere — from cow bells to temple bells to elephant bells — some massive, made from iron, stand in the foyer, while others, more delicate, are displayed in a glass-fronted curio case. Catherine has positioned her collection of Japanese dolls throughout the house. These armless, legless painted wooden kokeshi (some with bobble heads) look like precious bowling pins, too tall and heavy for cuddling. But the most fanciful objet d’art is a miniature “spirit house” resting on a fern stand in the dining room. Like birdhouses, these carved structures with spirals and wings erupting from walls and roof are placed outside the home, to welcome beneficial spirits.  “Our real house in Thailand looked just like that,” Catherine says.

Their real house in Southern Pines has a circular floorplan; a tour begun in the large foyer tracks through the living room, dining room, kitchen, two dens/offices and back to the foyer without retracing a step. The original room designation remains a mystery. Catherine believes the two offices off the foyer might have been bedrooms with a bathroom, perhaps used as overflow accommodations by the Highland Inn. Outside, a terraced garden, fountain, pond and trellis covered with Confederate jasmine speak more North Carolina than South Korea.

The second floor, with lower ceilings and fewer moldings, suggests the house was planned for entertaining, with architectural details concentrated downstairs. Here, Catherine appreciates having enough wall space to display their art collection, including several waterscapes, some painted on lacquer, from Korea, where commercial fishing flourishes.

The kitchen had been enlarged and renovated by a previous owner who added a vaulted ceiling paneled in pickled wood — more Western than Eastern. However, musky olive green walls, a black enamel farm sink and sculpturesque gas cooktop mounted on the island impart an Asian flavor — except for statuettes of saints, brought from Central America, looking down from atop a cabinet.

Beyond the kitchen is a practical feature rarely seen in either classic or contemporary residences. A door opens into a hallway to the laundry, garage and stairs to the former maid’s quarters, now a private guest suite with heart pine floors, dormers, built-in drawers and claw-foot bathtub, all accessible without entering the house itself.

If Catherine loved Asia, South Africa left her positively ecstatic, perhaps because they lived on a predator-free game preserve where gentle kudus ate out of her hand, over a backyard fence. “The animals! You see these wonderful animals everywhere!” she says. Art and artifacts throughout the house, including zebra wallpaper in an upstairs bathroom, memorialize this experience.

“Africa changes you,” imprinting not just your house, but your soul, John says. Catherine felt closer to the earth from having lived there. “It’s just magical — both the animals and the people.”

John and Catherine enjoyed a lifestyle reminiscent of British colonials learning folkways from servants and drivers — not all positive. “Africa made me look at poverty differently,” Catherine says. “Our housekeeper taught us never to waste food, not a scrap.”

“Yet the people fought through poverty. They didn’t act poor. They were industrious,” John observes.

In 2013 the Earps (yes, he’s related to Wyatt, distantly) chose Southern Pines — and this house — for their retirement because Catherine’s sister lives down the street. Reason enough, without the existential link. For a decade or more the sturdy brick Weymouth residence was known as the H.H. Pethick house. Henry Pethick served as U.S. vice-consul in Saigon, in 1919. He then became a Standard Oil executive in China, returning only when Japan began bombing Canton, according to a Sept. 1937 edition of The Pilot. Mrs. Pethick had come back a year earlier, undoubtedly with household souvenirs. When the Pethicks sold the house in May 1945, a front page story described it as “one of the most attractive and elaborate residences in Southern Pines.”

No mention, however, of serene ghosts floating about in fine silk garments, waiting patiently for their ship, piloted by the Earps, to sail home.   PS

A Highland Fling

The rich legacy of the Scots

By Haley Ray

Even with directions, it’s easy to miss the graveyard deep down a small, unmarked Carthage dirt road. The worn stones are quiet. The only sounds are the earth beneath your feet and the air in the pines above. The Old Scotch Graveyard is worth the trip. It’s a glimpse into Moore County’s past; a snippet of the people that lived here hundreds of years ago and the world they helped shape.

Here lies Alexander McCaskill

Born on Isle of Skye Scotland

Village of Dunvegan

1760

Brother of Angus

Died March 18, 1840, Richmond County

The grave of Alexander’s brother, Angus, lies right next to his own. Not all the stones are readable; some are crumbling, others have fallen over, some plots are unmarked. The gravestones that are discernable usually provide the Scottish village of the man or woman’s origin. Bill Caudill, director of the Scottish Heritage Center at St. Andrews University, says it was a cultural custom commonly practiced by the early migrant Scots in America.

“This identity is very strong here,” says Caudill. “How many ethnic groups do you know that place on their tombstone where they came from and when they came from there? That’s telling you that these people had a sense of belonging. They were here, and they made a new livelihood for themselves, but they always belonged somewhere else. That’s the sense these people had of who they were, and that they still belonged in Scotland.”

Moore County had a large number of those early Scottish immigrants, most hailing from the Highlands of northern Scotland, and dubbed Highlanders (as opposed to the Lowland Scots of southern cities like Edinburgh). Drive through the village of Pinehurst and plenty of Scottish surnames adorn street signs: McKenzie, McDonald, McCaskill, Blue, Shaw, Ferguson, Caddell. While heavily concentrated in the small boundaries of Pinehurst proper, similar road names are scattered across the Sandhills as a tribute to the old, powerful families.

“There’s a lot of subliminal things, a huge amount of subliminal things that nobody would know if it wasn’t really pointed out for you,” says Caudill. “When I say that, I’m talking about historic sites, old family cemeteries, street names.”

The Scots presence extends deeper than Scottish flags on front porches, a Lion Rampant on a license plate or a few family names on street signs. The depth of the influence is framed by the fact that the North Carolina Scottish settlement was the largest Highland settlement in North America until the latter quarter of the 19th century.

The popular, more romanticized version of this great migration tells of shiploads of rebel-hearted Scots washing up on the shores of Wilmington in the 1740s and spreading throughout North Carolina, opting to settle in the American colonies rather than face persecution by the English after the failed Jacobite rebellion in their homeland. Having defied their king, Highlanders had no option but to flee — North Carolina or bust.

The shiploads of Scottish immigrants who flooded into the Wilmington port followed the Cape Fear River deeper into the state, and into the Sandhills. The motivations behind the large-scale emigration are often misrepresented or misunderstood. The dramatic version of events is referred to in history books as the “Theory of Exile.” Scholars mused that the Brits had a master scheme to exile unworthy residents to the colonies after Prince Charles Stewart failed to reclaim the English throne with Scottish — mostly Highland — support.

But, their great escape from the glens and moors of the Highlands had less to do with vengeful persecution than economic changes and a growing population. Although the aftermath of the Battle of Culloden — the deciding clash between the English and the Jacobites that ended the Scottish rebellion in 1746 — did contribute to the exodus, it doesn’t tell the whole story. Caudill says the exile theory can be credited to the writings of one man, William Henry Foote, a minister who wrote about the history of North Carolina from a Presbyterian perspective. Researchers and historians who dug deeper into the records found that the story of the British transporting large numbers of people to work in the colonies was largely inaccurate.

“It didn’t happen. Simply did not happen,” says Caudill. “First off, the people that were transported were taken to prison after Culloden by the government forces. Most of them, that were not paroled, were taken to places like the West Indies and Barbados. Colonies like that. Because of our trade routes, some of those people perhaps may have ended up here. But most of them, no.”

The dismantling of the exile theory begs the question of why, then, did so many Scots leave their beloved country? Moore County native Douglas Kelly also tackles the question of the Theory of Exile in his book Carolina Scots: An Historical and Genealogical Study of Over 100 Years of Emigration. Both sides of Kelly’s family descended from the Highlander immigrants in North Carolina, and he took an interest in his family history at a young age. He explains that before the Battle of Culloden, the clan system was the operating hierarchy in the Highlands of Scotland. Lowland culture more closely resembled that of Britain, although it retained distinctly Scottish characteristics.

The Scottish defeat at Culloden Moor helped dismantle the traditional clan system, but social and economic changes drove the breakdown, and thus migration out of Scotland. Before the Jacobite Rebellion, clan chiefs were the supreme commanders and owners of the land. Below them were the tacksmen, who were leased “tacks” of land from the chief to sublet to farmers on a year-to-year basis. Kelly says the tacksmen were the wealthy middle class, often relatives of the chief. Peasants and poor farmers, also called crofters, made up the lowest level. Tacksmen were paid a fee from the chiefs for managing the land and to ensure the farmers had the tools they needed to tend it.

“Well before Culloden, as early as the 1740s, there was coming pressure on the upper middle class, on the tacksmen,” he says. “Some of the chiefs and lords were getting advice that they were costing too much. It wasn’t religious persecution.”

Shutting out the tacksmen to save money was discussed in the 1730s, but never actually happened, Kelly says. Still, they knew their position was in jeopardy. Following the Scottish defeat at Culloden, the English enforced the 1746 Act of Proscription, which disarmed the Highlanders and instituted punishment for the wearing of traditional Highland dress, including kilts. There is no doubt the oppression contributed to the pressure and panic clans felt, but it is far from the sole reason for the migration. The Theory of Exile fails to include the rising rents, famine years, and increasing population that had citizens, especially tacksmen, scrambling to charter a ship to the Americas.

“The handwriting was on the wall,” says Kelly. “The tacksmen knew their position was threatened in Scotland economically. They decided to emigrate. North Carolina had a Scottish governor, Gabriel Johnston, at that time. He wanted to get Scottish Protestants to settle his colony because North Carolina was far behind South Carolina and Virginia (in population). They were richer. We were considerably underpopulated, so he wanted to get Scots. He contacted some wealthy tacksmen in Argyll, the McNeals and the Clarks, and told them if they would set up a party of emigrants, a colony, he would give them free land in what is now Fayetteville and Moore County.”

So, Scots boarded ships and crossed the sea. The first colony arrived in 1739, seven years before the battle heavily credited for the relocation. Although there are records of Scots arriving before 1739, this colony marked the start of the governor’s Old World recruiting. In addition to free land, Johnston exempted the incoming settlers from taxation for 10 years and allowed them to serve as magistrates and judges. It was a braw deal. Some of Kelly’s family arrived in this settlement, which docked in Wilmington or Brunswick and took smaller boats up the Cape Fear River into Fayetteville.

The Fayetteville colony was a large one, but eventually the settlers were pushed out to make room for Fort Bragg. There are numerous historic sites on the Fort Bragg base that are no longer easily accessible to the curious visitor. You need to make an appointment with Dr. Linda Carnes-McNaughton, archaeologist and curator of the Fort Bragg Cultural Resources Program. Some sites will always remain off-limits for civilians. Carnes-McNaughton estimates that 80 percent of the Fayetteville colony was Scottish, and the historic sites reflect their presence.

“It was predominatly white European settlers moving into the area,” she says. “So when the Scots came, the first things they built were churches. They built schools because they wanted to continue to educate the next generation. That’s why some of the churches are so old, like Barbecue and Longstreet. Building a church and a school went hand-in-hand.”

The Blue family, of the historic Blue Plantation in Aberdeen, also had large tracts of land in Fayetteville before relocating. Carnes-McNaughton says only the Presbyterian churches still stand, some dating back to 1757. She takes many descendants of settler families on tours, and provides access to old documents, as they piece together their family history.

That Scottish sense of self was strong enough to shape the culture and attitudes of the Sandhills in a way that lingers today. Southern Pines resident Jane McPhaul is a proud descendant of those settlers, and heavily involved with preserving the culture and history of her ancestors. She says that placing a large importance on family, church and education is one legacy they left behind. Kelly, Caudill and McPhaul all believe that the area’s famous Southern hospitality, and a close-knit community, may to some degree be credited to the early Scots.  

“You might more broadly say that this is throughout the South, but there’s a sense of kinship here that is much more akin to what you would find in Scotland of old, as opposed to what you would find in other places,” says Caudill. “Here in Laurinburg, everybody knows who everybody’s family is and how they were related. So there was an extended sense of kinship that sort of likened itself to the clans.”

Kelly, who still has family in the Highlands and has lived in Scotland, grew up in a Presbyterian household, hearing Gaelic, learning to work the fields at the Blue Plantation, and listening to family gossip as a popular form of entertainment — a true Scot tradition. Some of his family from the Isle of Skye came to visit Moore County years ago, which he says really brought the similarities to light. Highlanders broadly define themselves as hospitable to strangers, hardworking and unpretentious — North Carolina traits.

“When they were here, they said the spirit is so much like the Highlands of Scotland. The humor, even the way people walk was similar, so they were amazed,” he says. “This sounds self-serving, but in general there’s a courtesy and kindness. It was always generally non-pretentious.”

Along with the importance of church, family and education, many rituals survive. The Highland Games, in both Laurinburg and Grandfather Mountain, is one popular tradition, attended by Scots and non-Scots alike. Bagpipers play at community events. The Kirkin’ o’ the Tartan, an annual ceremony held in a church to bless the clan tartans, is another. Today, the kirkin’ is continued for descendants to celebrate and honor their national and religious heritage, and it’s a ritual McPhaul habitually takes part in.

“We do the Kirkin’ o’ the Tartan at Brownson Church. We’ve done it at The Village Chapel many times, and many of the churches around here do this,” she says. “We have banners. So you’ll take your tartan banner, and generally the men will walk it down the aisle during the kirkin’. It’s something that’s cherished.”

Many of the original Scottish families remain in the area. One reason may be the family land the settlers likely received from Gov. Johnston. Kelly says that the eldest sons inherited the land and had a strong incentive to remain, keeping the family name in the Sandhills.

Jesse Wimberly, a Highlander descendant and outreach coordinator for the nonprofit Sandhills Area Land Trust, says the unique ecosystem is another reason they remained. Many Scottish immigrants, including Wimberly’s family, made their money by extracting pine, turpentine and tar from the native longleafs for the shipbuilding industry. He says that the flora of the pines wasn’t disturbed by the turpentiners. The diverse environment of the Sandhills also made for good hunting, another tradition they continued from their homeland.

Although the breadth of information available on the original Scottish settlements is seemingly endless, data is still missing. Caudill says there is no exact number on how many Scots arrived on the coast of North Carolina, because ship records are available for just part of two years. Historians can only guess at the number of arrivals, which they place somewhere between 15,000 and 30,000 before the Revolutionary War.

“There’s academics in Scotland who know more about our settlement and community than most history professors at UNC,” says Caudill.

For newcomers to the Sandhills the Scottish influence likely begins and ends with golf, and beloved golf course designer Donald Ross. Less well known is that the Jacobite heroine Flora MacDonald resided in Richmond County in the 1770s with her tacksman husband, Allan. Still revered in song and folktales, MacDonald earned her celebrity by assisting Prince Charles Stewart in escape from the English after the rebellion failed.

Davidson College was founded as a Scottish college in 1837 and two Scots from Fayetteville were the first heads of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill.

Behind the Chick-fil-A on U.S. 15-501 is the grave of Kenneth Black, hanged for housing Flora MacDonald after revolutionaries burned her house to the ground. The MacDonalds, who eventually returned to the Highlands, were loyalists to the crown during the American Revolution, as were many of the Scottish in America.

John MacRae, a Scottish oral poet largely unknown outside of academic circles, resided in Carthage after leaving Scotland in 1774. Caudill has a book of his poetry sitting in his office.

“John MacRae is the only voice of these people in their own language. He wrote poems and songs that were transmitted in the oral tradition that have been collected by folklorists all over the world, wherever there are Gaelic settlements. And they were written in Moore County. And nobody knows about them, except for the scholars,” Caudill says.

McPhaul works to preserve the historic Mill Prong House in Red Springs, and continues the annual family reunion they call the gathering of the clans. She can trace the route her ancestors took up the Cape Fear River. “We honor ancestry, we don’t just know about it,” says McPhaul. “It is a heritage that means a great deal.”

Generations removed, the ties still bind. PS

Haley Ray is a Pinehurst native and University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill graduate, who recently returned from the deserts of Southern California

Poem

The Arborist

The arborist: “This tree is nearly eighty

years old, and bound to fail. Put in when folks

developed Rosemont Street — all up and down

the yards the same — the maples, oaks, and firs.

No wonder she lost this limb.” I almost said

I’m seventy-one myself, with lanky limbs

that take me loping ’round the block three times

A week. I hoped he’d say, “Pas possible!”

(His name’s duBois!); instead he said, “See?

You know exactly what I mean.” Mark laughed.

“So what’s the fastest growing tree?” he asked

duBois. “The sycamore. It grows six feet a year,

and when it’s done, it’s sixty feet, providing shade

like this poor maple.” Poor maple. Such girth

I wouldn’t call it poor, but Mark had feared

the insides rotted out; duBois concurred.

We paid him then to take old maple down

and plant the slender sycamore. We’ll have

to move the chairs elsewhere in the yard,

and get a large umbrella for our shade.

Or else we’ll sit all summer under the

porch roof, coaxing the tree to grow. And I’ll

be eighty-one when sycamore is done,

or else bequeath it to new owners, just

as when I think of our beloved Hannah —

who’s twelve and growing, too — bequeathed by us

to other tenders of emerging things,

those who never knew us — we, the arborists,

who sit where someone sat in nineteen

thirty-eight and watched a little maple grow.

— Paul Lamar

The Bard Is Back

Soliloquies in the park

By Jim Moriarty     Photograph by Tim Sayer

Midsummer will come early to Pinehurst’s Village Green when William Shakespeare gets a curtain call in Tufts Park. After last summer’s three-night run of Much Ado About Nothing, Jonathan Drahos, Carolanne Marano and the Uprising Theatre Company return on back-to-back weekends with A Midsummer Night’s Dream. The 7:30 p.m. shows will be June 1-3 and 8-10. Instead of groundlings paying a penny to stand in the yard of the Globe Theatre, all you’ll need is a blanket or a lawn chair. “Our big thing is to keep it free,” says Marano.

“One of the reasons we decided to do two weekends this year is we want to grow,” says Drahos, an associate professor and the director of the theater at the University of North Carolina-Pembroke. “We want to get the community used to this ongoing thing, that it’s not a one-off. But, also, if it rains one weekend, it’s not a total bust.”

Last year after two flawless nights, bad weather arrived on Sunday. “It started raining in the morning and we thought, ‘OK, we’re going to have to cancel the show,’” says Marano, who teaches choreography and stage dance at UNCP. “We went out there and people had camped out. So we had everybody move closer to the stage and we didn’t use any mics. We didn’t have any electrical and, at one point, two cars pulled up and showed their lights so we could still act. When it got a little unsafe we called it. We went as far as we could. If the audience is willing to weather the storm, then so are we. It was actually a lot of fun.”

The park is the perfect place to stage A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Shakespeare’s best-known comedy. You’ve got Athenians, fairies, weddings and craftsmen. Add a little love potion and what could possibly go wrong? “Lord what fools these mortals be!” says Puck, who will be played by Carolanne.

“It’s Shakespeare’s only truly original play,” says Drahos. Though threads trace back to Chaucer, Ovid and even some medieval romances, “there isn’t a lot of source material he drew from like he does from other plays. Although elements of it are derived from Ovid’s Metamorphoses, and certainly the Pyramus and Thisbe play-within-the-play is sort of lifted from Ovid but the cosmic scope of the play is original. That’s what makes it, to me, special.”

Midsummer begins with the Duke of Athens, Theseus, set to marry the Queen of the Amazons, Hippolyta. A group of craftsmen has gone into the woods to practice their bumbling, crude and comic version of a play — Pyramus and Thisbe — to perform at the wedding. Determined to defy an arranged marriage, Hermia and Lysander also flee into the woods. As luck would have it, the forest is filled with fairies. The couple is pursued by Demetrius, the prospective husband so designated by Hermia’s father, and Helena, who loves Demetrius and seeks to win his favor. Oberon, the king of the fairies, has his own problems. He sends his hobgoblin, Puck, in search of a flower that contains a juice that, when dropped on the eyelids of any sleeper, will make that person fall in love with whomever they see on first awakening. Hijinks ensue.

“If you look at the grand scope of Shakespeare’s works, all of the language is miraculous,” says Drahos. But, on occasion, it can be a bit daunting. “There’s a way that Jon’s training will get the actor to say it so the audience doesn’t feel like it’s a foreign language,” says Marano.

“So much of the language that Shakespeare used, we still use today, 95 percent of it basically. It’s the way Shakespeare put it together that is rhetorically complex, and that’s what makes it eloquent and beautiful and poetic,” says Drahos. “What we end up doing is a collaboration with the audience, saying, ‘We understand that you’re not going to get 100 percent of what we’re doing. We’re going to make 75 percent understandable, and if you meet us halfway with the other 25 percent, you’re going to forgive the rhetorical complexity of the language.’ This is the problem I think a lot of companies have with Shakespeare — they’re sort of elitist. They want the audience to come to them where we are trying to come to the audience. Meet them halfway.”

Drahos and Marano, both 51, met as undergraduate students at Cal State Long Beach when they were performing in David Mamet’s Edmond. Carolanne is originally from Philadelphia, by way of Wichita, Kansas, where her father was an executive for Pizza Hut. She trained in classic ballet at Pennsylvania Ballet, San Francisco Ballet and Ballet West until an injury propelled her career in a slightly different direction. Jonathan grew up in the San Fernando Valley but spent most of his early years in Huntington Beach, California. After graduating from Long Beach they moved to Kansas City where Jonathan got his Master of Fine Arts degree in acting and directing from the University of Missouri-KC. “I was looking for a program that focused on Shakespeare and that was steeped in the classics because that was my lifelong passion,” says Drahos.

From there it was off to New York City. Marano wrote a comedy, At the Threshold, which they produced off-Broadway at the Judith Anderson Theatre on 42nd Street, essentially launching the Uprising Theatre Company. Seven years later, they switched coasts, moving to Los Angeles. During their 10 years in L.A., they produced Carolanne’s play at the Fremont Centre Theatre under the title How Our In-Laws Ruined Our Wedding. Then, while Jonathan was doing a Shakespeare festival in Santa Barbara, a temporary teaching position opened at Cal State Northridge. He fell nearly as much in love with teaching as he was with Shakespeare, and soon they were off to England for Drahos to acquire a Ph.D. from the Shakespeare Institute at the University of Birmingham. From there he was hired by Southern Oregon University, which is where UNCP found and recruited him in 2014. All in all, it’s no less complicated a trail to Shakespeare in the park than Lysandra and Hermia take into the woods.

A Midsummer Night’s Dream has a substantial cast. The tall, lean Drahos will be playing Oberon, while the slight ballerina, Marano, is Puck. “We’ve been working on the physicality of the Puck/Oberon relationship. She’s going to be climbing on me a lot, sort of almost attached spiritually,” he says. For other roles, they’ll rely on theater students from UNCP, in addition to outside actors, some local. “Also, we look in New York and L.A. because we do like to bring in professionals so that the students can learn from them,” says Marano. The theater company fundraises to pay for the production and any outside talent. That fundraising effort includes the sale of a limited number of tables — with cheese and wine — for the Friday and Saturday night performances.

“Actors like to work,” says Drahos. “With Shakespeare, it’s not about the money necessarily. But if you can get paid to do Shakespeare, it doesn’t get any better for a real actor than to have that scenario. Especially in such a beautiful setting in Pinehurst, during the summer, outdoors.” PS

Jim Moriarty is senior editor of PineStraw and can be reached at jjmpinestraw@gmail.com.

Almanac

By Ash Alder

The world’s favorite season is the spring. All things seem possible in May.— Edwin Way Teale

May and the heart sings of somersaults, cartwheels across the lawn, dandelions tucked behind the ears of children. 

May is a month of sweetness.

The pick-your-own-strawberries, soft-spring-rain, butterflies-in-the-garden kind of sweetness.

And magnolia-blossoms-for-Mama.

In the garden: snow peas, fennel, broccoli, kale.

In the kitchen: bearded iris in a pail.

May is a month for sweethearts — and dancing.

Dancing round maypoles, dancing round in circles, dancing round the Beltane fire.

The first maypoles were made of hawthorn, a mystical tree which the ancient Celts believed could heal a broken heart.

Breathe in spring and feel your heart somersault, hopscotch, send a flurry of dandelion seeds whirling as it cartwheels through a field of sweetness.

Gifts for Mama

Mother’s Day falls on Sunday, May 13. I think of the hundred-year-old ferns in my grandmother’s sunroom, the ones that belonged to her florist mother, and how love, when nurtured, grows and grows.

A few seeds of inspiration for the beloved matriarch in your life:

Sprig of dogwood.

Pickled magnolia petals.

Lemon basil.

Bulbs for the garden: dahlias,
      wild ginger,

climbing lily.

Stepping stones.

Wildflower crown.

Peach, pear or nectarine tree.

Basketful of dandelion (for wine).

Eternal love.

The Full Flower Moon rises on Tuesday, May 29. Also called Mother’s Moon, Milk Moon and Corn Planting Moon, this month’s moon illuminates the whitetail fawns, wide-eyed owlets, wildflowers everywhere.

According to The Old Farmer’s Almanac, the best days for planting above-ground crops this month are May 18, 19, and 26–28. Plant below-ground crops May 9 or 10.

Plan now for July sweet corn on the grill.

Pickled Magnolia Flowers

Try this to add a side of whimsy to your spring salad.

Ingredients

One pound fresh young magnolia flowers

1 1/2 cups rice vinegar

One cup of sugar

One teaspoon of salt

Directions

Wash and dry petals, then put them in a sterilized jar with salt.

Mix rice vinegar and sugar in pan, then bring to boil.

Pour hot vinegar and sugar mixture over flowers. Allow to cool, then cap the jar.

Spring — an experience in immortality.— Henry D. Thoreau

 

Bold Is Beautiful

Surprises await inside a timeless exterior

By Deborah Salomon     Photographs by John Gessner

If ever a house made beautiful music that house must be Stone Oaks Farm:

— The lilting remnants of an Irish brogue, from flame-haired Mary Dunlop, who chose crystal chandeliers for her kitchen.

— The Canadian inflection of crack golfer, hockey fan and guitarist Craig Dunlop.

— A duet of aboriginal art collectors.

— The echoes of grandchildren on summer vacation.

— The patriotic anthems of Craig and Mary’s mother countries.

— The purr of a foundling kitten who transitioned from barn to master bedroom.

— Everywhere, any time, music of many sorts from an indoor-outdoor sound system. Right now, country tunes top the playlist. “They make me feel like dancing,” Mary says. So Mary and Craig hopped over to Nashville — and danced.

— Should the house itself find a voice, only a bold, booming baritone would permeate 6,000 square feet on six acres, with terrace, pasture and barn. Because only bold folks would purchase a modest cottage and attach a 4,000-square-foot, three-story addition walled with 350,000 pounds of Tennessee fieldstone laid by a family of masons from Troy. That endeavor alone, crowned by a Celtic knot, took a year. The result deserves a  historic places marker. As for time and expense, Craig has no regrets. “There’s nothing as timeless and classic as stone.”

The Dunlop’s ballad rings familiar.

“We’ve been coming to Pinehurst for years,” Mary begins. Both are serious golfers. They kept a small house, sufficient for getaways. Then, out for a drive one fine day in 2004 they came upon the cottage, built in 1929, tucked behind massive pin oaks on Midland Road. They bought it immediately with the intention of creating a family homestead that looked the part. Never mind they were living in Milan, with an apartment in Paris. Previous addresses have included Toronto, Vancouver and Edmonton. After cruel Alberta winters, Pinehurst was paradise.

“Until now, I’ve never lived in one place for more than six years,” Mary says.

Another two years passed before they occupied Stone Oaks. By then, a cottage of unknown provenance had become the core from which a new residence radiated.

First-timers on a walkthrough had better leave a trail of breadcrumbs or arm their GPS. The floor plan is complicated.

Mary starts in the kitchen, accessed by a long outdoor gallery (don’t trip over the rocking chairs) leading to the three-car garage over which hang American, Canadian and Irish flags beneath a Celtic knot. According to a commemorative pillow, the couple became American citizens on Oct. 28, 2016. “I love kitchens but I hate to cook,” says Mary. She pored over magazines until finding the right design: two islands, one granite-topped for the sink and breakfast bar, the other with a chopping surface of polished African Iroko wood.  Above the range, a backsplash of Irish Connemara marble. Dark beams match the cabinets, some stained black. A double-wide stainless fridge, a desk and combination pantry-coat closet, bar and butler’s pantry, two dishwashers and numerous ovens facilitate entertaining.

Mary couldn’t decide on lighting fixtures until the crystal chandeliers caught her eye at Pottery Barn. She likes “quirky,” best illustrated by original wooden street signs from Pinehurst, which she found at the dump. Now, they border the ceiling in kitchen and sunroom.

“This was the living room,” Mary says of her dining room long enough to accommodate a 12-foot table of stained wood planks on a central support, “so nobody gets their legs tangled up underneath.” On the walls, Canadian paintings of startling form and color; some appear lifted from Stravinsky’s The Firebird ballet, others from an anthropology textbook. Across from the dining room what had been a tiny bedroom now serves as a petite parlor with white damask-upholstered pieces, pale avocado walls and rug plus a second quirk: artsy photos of cigar smokers’ heads, old and wizened. “We saw them in a Paris restaurant . . . the owner told us where to find (the photographer),” Mary recalls. On the mantel facing the smokers stands a delicate antique clock belonging to Mary’s mother — or a French king.

Photographs, hundreds, hang everywhere. Besides chronicling family history on all four walls of a powder room, they commemorate athletic and professional achievements. One corner is devoted to musicians — Elvis, The Beatles and, as a joke, Justin Bieber. The sunroom features a Tiger Woods retrospective and more hockey.

If the parlor looks seldom-used, not so Mary’s “place,” a clubby den with wood paneling, bookshelves, oversized leather chairs, fishing trophies and assorted golf memorabilia. Yes, that’s Craig with Soviet Union President Mikhail Gorbachev, also Canadian parliamentarians and golf notables. Mary feels comfortable here, especially when Craig is away:  “I walk in, put my feet up, turn on the fire, pour a glass of wine . . .” and relax.

Upstairs dormer guest bedrooms on the cottage side are a nice size, decorated traditionally. Cross over into the addition and everything gets bigger. Much bigger. The Big Room (usually described as “great” or “family”) with more built-in bookcases, a three-story vaulted ceiling with skylights, exposed rafters and beams, a circular candle fixture suspended from the apex, stone fireplace with raised hearth, maroon brocade on sofas and chairs set a Tudor tone contradicted only by an enormous folk-art painting leaning on the mantel.  Side walls are entirely paned windows and doors, providing light to offset the dark woods. On either side stand dining room tables, one from Mary’s family, the other from Craig’s.

“We like stairs,” is Mary’s explanation for the open staircase with balcony over the Big Room, leading to the master suite: a bed-sitting room with fireplace, a quirky three-legged coffee table made from a tree trunk cross section, an unusual tiled shower room (no messy glass enclosures). Finally, Craig’s man cave extraordaire, with fitness equipment, steam and sauna, guitar display, office nook and bear skin with head, taken down by Craig himself, in Ontario.

Mary’s confluence of décor styles is her own, unassisted by professionals. Furnishings in storage during their European sojourn have traveled from High Point to Canada and now back to Southern Pines. Enhancing these are two stunning family heirloom sideboards, various tables and an antique rocking chair belonging to Mary’s mother, reupholstered in a leopard print — delightfully quirky.

“We live outside in the summer,” Mary says, when their two daughters and four grandchildren arrive for six weeks. The terrace garden with pathways, raised beds and fire pit once hosted a Rooster’s Wife-style concert. This postcard needs horses leaning over the paddock fence. For a while, the Dunlops boarded a few but no more. Instead, Mary has installed a vegetable garden that supplies the kitchen when she — or someone else — cooks. “I’ve forgotten how,” she says.

Stone Oaks is a home not only of voices but layers representing well-traveled lives. Along with eclectic art and furnishings Mary is not above levity, as in a ceramic figurine on the hall table, titled “Happily Dying of Chocolate.” The wood in the sunroom may have been rescued from a local barn but posters along the porch tease “Asylum for the Insane, Evaluation Center.” Giant glass and papier mâché pears adorn side tables in the Great Room. Mary boldly hangs Picasso’s familiar Girl Before a Mirror over a king-sized sleigh bed.

Even the land speaks for itself. Longleaf pines are absent, replaced by mature banks of rhododendron. The gnarled trunk of an ancient pin oak dominating the circular driveway resembles an elephant hide. Ivy entwines other trees. “What I wanted was a comfortable, friendly, warm home, nothing antiseptic or pretentious,” Craig maintains. He likes that every room can be a separate living space, with its own personality. “I needed a home able to absorb my junk. Walls covered with things and pictures add comfort.”

Mary concurs: “I didn’t want perfection, just a place where if you spill some wine, it’s OK.”

Not to worry — there’s plenty more in the 600-bottle temperature-controlled wine cabinet. There’s probably a song for that, too, although more likely Frank Sinatra than Garth Brooks.  PS

Almanac

If the flowering cherry tree could speak, she wouldn’t tell of her own beauty.

Words could never capture it.

But with her powder soft voice, she might sing of the garden: banksia rose spilling over with fragrant yellow blooms; copper mobile, whirling beneath the redbud; foxglove, swooning from the tender kiss of the nectar-drunk hummingbird.

She might sing of bluebirds or violets or kissing in the rain.

Or maybe she does.

Yes, can’t you hear her? Voice like a siren. Sultry as a whisper at the nape of your neck.

Listen. 

She serenades the squirrel babes, blind and naked, whose mother built their nest with stuffing from the neighbor’s patio cushions.

At twilight, she hums low while the pregnant doe clears a row of tulips sweet as candy. 

Sunny jonquils harmonize with whippoorwill — Look-at-me! Look-at-me! — but the deer moseys onward.

As cherry maiden stifles laughter, all the world sings back.

Carrot Bloody Mary (Serves 4)

Ingredients

32 ounces carrot juice

8 ounces vodka

6 ounces pickle juice

juice from one-half lemon

5 dashes Worcestershire sauce

3 teaspoons crab seasoning (more for rimming)

3 teaspoons black pepper

2 teaspoons dill

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 teaspoons ground ginger

2 teaspoons horseradish

2 teaspoons hot sauce (modify by your heat preference)

Instructions

Add all ingredients into a pitcher, then stir until combined.

Slide the flesh of a lemon around the rim of each pint glass, then place the rims onto a plate of crab seasoning to lace them.

Fill pint glasses with ice, then pour the carrot juice mixture over top. — garnish with pickled vegetables, celery, or tomatoes. Enjoy!

While the Azalea’s Still Blooming . . .

Plant the eggplants, beets and melons! Pumpkins, squash, green beans and peppers! And if you’re looking for a down-home summer — the white bread and black pepper type — sew the cukes and maters in the soft, cool earth.

Asparagus Season

Greek myth tells that spring is when Demeter, mother-goddess of harvest and fertility, celebrates the six-month return of her beautiful daughter, Persephone (goddess of the Underworld), by making the earth lush and fruitful once again.

But what on earth did she do with all those tender green shoots of asparagus? Quiche. Soup. Risotto. Frittata. Asparagus custard tart . . .

In the spirit of Easter (Sunday, April 1),
how about a festive beverage to serve up with that asparagus-studded brunch?

And don’t forget all those garden parties
this month.

The ancient Celts looked to the trees for knowledge and wisdom. According to Celtic tree astrology, those born from April 15 to May 12 associate with willow, an enchanted tree that symbolizes love, fertility, beauty and grace. Creative, patient and highly intuitive, willow people are mystical by nature. They are most compatible with birch (December 24 to January 20) and ivy (September 30 to October 27) signs.

A Tradition of Culture

The many lives of Campbell House

By Ray Owen

Surviving through myriad incarnations, Southern Pines’ Campbell House is one of the region’s most significant landmarks, owing its existence to the Boyd family. Once part of their Weymouth estate, for more than 100 years it has been a center of culture, informing, influencing and enhancing civic life.

It is an outstanding example of a Country Place-era estate created over time by a remarkable series of individuals who began settling in the region around the turn of the 20th century. The fledgling Sandhills resorts were rising from the dusty remains of a former turpentine and lumber industry outpost. The backdrop for this transformation was the greater social movement of the day, a reaction to the cultural upheavals brought about by industrialization and urbanization. The Sandhills fit perfectly within the country life paradigm, appealing to America’s growing fascination with vernacular culture and native folk.

The lives of Campbell House comprise four significant periods: first the home of James Maclin Brodnax, then expanded into the original James Boyd House with additions from local Colonial houses; next moved and enlarged at its present location by Jackson Boyd; later the home of General Motors heir Maj. William Durant Campbell; and now a municipal property, home to Southern Pines Recreation & Parks Department and the Arts Council of Moore County.

The first period opens with James Boyd’s 1904 purchase of a sizable portion of land on the eastern ridge above downtown Southern Pines. Within months, the matter of building a residence was altered by the death of his kinsman, James Brodnax, who had built a two-story Colonial Revival-style home for himself on the property. James Boyd, grandfather of writer James Boyd and his brother Jackson, enlarged the Brodnax House into an imposing mansion, incorporating building elements dating from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The Brodnax-Boyd House was located 100 feet in front of present-day Weymouth Center.

In 1921, the Brodnax-Boyd House was separated into two blocks and both moved by mule teams across Connecticut Avenue, where they became the core of two new residences. One part was refitted as a residence for Jackson Boyd (Jack) and his family, and it remained their home, following major rebuilding in 1936 after a fire. Another part of the Brodnax-Boyd House is now the dwelling standing at 435 E. New Hampshire Ave.

Jack and his brother, writer James Boyd, founded the Moore County Hounds in the winter of 1914. They saw this aristocratic sport in democratic terms and felt that it should belong to the town. Proper dress or not, anyone who wished to hunt was invited to come along, so huntsmen in formal attire rode with farmers on horses more accustomed to plowing than jumping fences.

As a captain in the Marines, Jack was in charge of canine training at Camp Lejeune. Being from blueblood hunt country, he was a trainer, breeder, master of 70 foxhounds. Jack taught his war dogs to march in cadence, heel on regular intervals, and perform ordered drills. More training prepared them for track and attack missions and watch duty. His division’s canine records included letters of commendation, citations and a discharge certificate. In many instances, a formal photograph of the dog was included upon promotion of the dog to sergeant.

Jack’s eldest son, John Boyd, was killed in action at Guadalcanal, and the local VFW post is named for him. Those who knew Jack Boyd say that his son’s death was a severe blow and he left  Southern Pines shortly after the war.

In 1946, Major W.D. Campbell purchased the Jackson Boyd House and he made extensive changes, facing the unpretentious frame structure with ballast-brick from Charleston, South Carolina. The same brick was used in the formal landscaping and walled garden at the rear of the house. In 1966 the Campbell family gave their property to the town, asking that it be used for the cultural and social enrichment of the community.

Evidence of history can be found throughout the building, with a striking contrast between the formal entrance and the informality of the large pine-clad room on the east wing. This room, known today as the Brown Gallery, encompasses the most visible remains of Brodnax-Boyd House with its circa 1820s mantel and beaded hand-planed paneling.

In Jackson Boyd’s time the main staircase rose at the back of the foyer, but the Campbells reconfigured it to rise at the front, opening up the back wall with glass doors. The foyer and former dining room, now the White Gallery, remain unchanged from the late 1940s with marble-chip terrazzo flooring, marble staircase and decorative wrought-iron railing. A medallion graces the entry hall floor. Inscribed in Greek, it depicts an African antelope bagged by Maj. Campbell for the Museum of Natural History in New York.

The Campbells and their daughter, Margot, were active in many civic and community affairs. Mrs. Campbell was one of the founders of the Southern Pines Garden Club. Maj. Campbell’s interests included the Red Cross, Boy Scouts and model trains and he built the Train House to house his collection. An Eagle Scout in his boyhood, Campbell became a leader in the national and international movement, an activity that eventually called the family away from their home in the pines. Born in Flint, Michigan, Maj. Campbell was the grandson of William Crapo Durant, the co-founder of General Motors and Chevrolet, and the founder of Frigidaire. Campbell graduated from Princeton University in 1929 and initially pursued a career in banking. During World War II, he was a battery commander and retired from Fort Bragg in 1946 as a major. He became involved in Scouting as an adult at the suggestion of its British founder, Robert Baden-Powell. His travels convinced him that Scouting could do much for young people and he took a special interest in furthering the organization in developing countries with programs tailored to local needs. That philosophy and his personal commitment saw a doubling of the Scouts’ membership in the 1970s and 1980s, chiefly in the Third World. A philanthropist, Maj. Campbell was also on the executive committee of the Mystic Seaport Museum and a director of the National Audubon Society.

When the Campbells gifted the property to the town, a board of directors was appointed, bylaws were established, an on-site director was hired, and a vigorous program developed to put the property to use. The Southern Pines Information Center was installed in the main house, and the Stoneybrook Racing Association moved into its west wing office.

The Boy Scouts were among the early organizations at Campbell House, along with offices for the Humane Society of Moore County and Moore County Historical Association. In the late 1960s, a small golf museum was set up in the former dining room, and this collection was later turned over to the World Golf Hall of Fame.

In 1972, Southern Pines established a year-round recreation and parks department centered on the property. This program is now the biggest user of the site with its offices on the second floor of the main house. The first floor is the headquarters of the Arts Council of Moore County, where they maintain two galleries that display the work of different artists every month and a sales gallery that showcases the work of regional artists.

Thousands of visitors have enjoyed Campbell House, hundreds of volunteers have given time and energy to the fulfillment of its purpose, and a small, dedicated group has taken personal responsibility for its success.

Moss gathers on the ancient lawn as azaleas bloom late against fading bricks. Across the lot, live oaks keep the view — if they could speak, what stories would they tell, wide spreading boughs, nothing missed in their branches. Some say the house is haunted and at twilight the apparition of a woman drifts across the stairs, a lingering reminder of lives that have come before.  PS

Ray Owen is a local historian, who works for the Arts Council of Moore County.