Heigh-Ho, Heigh-Ho

It’s off to work we go

Illustrations by Laurel Holden

We’ve all had ’em, those odd jobs we’ve done along the way. Maybe it was behind a cash register or in front of a deep fat fryer. It could have been sweeping floors, pouring concrete or delivering pizza. The uniform might have featured a hairnet or a pair of work boots. It could have been weekends or evenings in high school or a long, hot summer waiting for college to begin. Maybe you already had a degree in your hand. The payoff could have been cash money (though not much of it) or nothing more than the experience. The memory of these jobs can bring a smile, a groan or a grimace. The money, if there was any, didn’t last long. The lesson that all work is noble lasts a lifetime.

Helen Buchholz is the mother of eight and grandmother of 25 who just celebrated her 95th birthday and once owned The Salem Shop, a women’s apparel store located on the corner of Pennsylvania Avenue and S.W. Broad Street. At home she has a photograph taken during War War II of her husband, John, who lost a leg in the Battle of Peleliu, meeting Bing Crosby at a golf club outside of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. She was Crosby’s driver and, at the time, didn’t know the man who would become her husband.

“I was a driver for the Emergency Aid in Philadelphia. An organization of volunteers. I did it from 1941 to 1945. I was 18 in ’41. My husband got to do it because he was part of the incentive program. They went around to different plants that won the letter E — the flag that they hung on their building — for their work effort. I was the one that drove Bing Crosby. I used to meet them at the airport or the railroad station and take them to Convention Hall when it was a drive for bonds, selling bonds during the war. I drove a lot of them. They had bond drives all the time. Those people came in as guest speakers. They stayed at the Ritz Carlton when it was on Broad Street, if they stayed overnight. I was assigned as their driver the whole time they were there. Most of them were very nice. Some were bossy like they thought we were employees instead of volunteers. They would have somebody in the backseat with them and they’d be talking. Bing Crosby was very nice to us. We had Bob Hope. He was fun. He really was. He had a lot of cuss words in his vocabulary but not like two of the women. Lucille Ball had a very dirty mouth. Linda Darnell. She had a terrible dirty mouth, terrible. That’s what I remember most, I guess. It was all very interesting to me. We were all a bunch of volunteers. We had the USO in the basement of the Academy of Music off Broad Street. The USO was there all day and all night and it was all volunteers that did it. Sometimes there were five or six people down there; sometimes there were 100.”

J.J. Jackson, part owner of the Carolina Hurricanes, has served as a board member and/or chairman of several worldwide rare earths and rare metal mining and natural resources companies; invested in and was a board member of the largest mobile telephone provider in Lithuania; was the chief financial operator of a similar company in Romania; worked for a wireless telecommunications company in the Czech Republic and at a holding company specializing in high-growth, high-risk telecom ventures throughout Central Europe; and on and on. A native of Peterborough, Ontario, and a former hockey goalie who married the Zamboni driver, his wife, Nancy, Jackson and his boyhood friends from Adam Scott High School spent June, July and August with flashlights attached to their baseball caps and old soup or bean cans strapped to their legs with elastic bands wandering local golf courses in the middle of the night learning the ins and outs of business from the ground up.

“I would bicycle about a mile to this guy’s ramshackle house, then we’d pile into some beat-up old van about 10 o’clock at night and drive to a golf course. You’d have a big empty can strapped to each leg like in the old days when you played hockey and used Sears and Roebuck catalogs for shin pads. And then you’d walk the fairway. Your quota was 1,000 worms a night, 500 in each can. Nightcrawlers. You sold them to the bait stores in flats of 500. We’d finish up at 4 or 5 in the morning, get back in the beat-up old van, go back into town, get on my bicycle and pedal back home. One night we were swinging from the limb of a tree and broke it. The golf course was pretty mad about that. Otherwise it was pretty uneventful.”

Paul Murphy is the pastor at Trinity A.M.E. Zion Church and spent a couple of decades performing at the Pinehurst Resort and Country Club.

“Technically, my first real job, I worked for my father, Murphy’s Music Center down in Town and Country shopping center. I moved pianos. Right before going to Chapel Hill to college he sent me off to a piano technicians school in Elyria, Ohio, to learn to tune, rebuild and refinish, everything having to do with a piano. It was called Perkins School of Piano Tuning and Technology. I was there for six months. The guy who owned the place was a West Virginian. He had this little racket going where he would advertise: Junker piano in your basement? They would pay him to rid their basement of these monstrosities. We would get these pianos all the way up the stairs, up on to the truck, bring them to the school, where we would pay him to teach us to tune the pianos and rebuild the pianos. Once the pianos were done then we would deliver them to downtown Cleveland to his store, where he would sell them. For him it was a win-win-win. Once I got to Chapel Hill, I ate up my dinner ticket my first week. When I came to myself, I said, ‘Wait, I can go to the music department and let them know I can tune pianos.’ The first day they sent me down to the basement and I tuned, like, four pianos. I worked my way up to the concert stage. My very first job was down in Madison, Georgia, picking cotton. The next-door neighbors were migrant workers. I was 5. We’d get paid a nickel a week. End of the week, my mother said I could spend three pennies. Go down and get these big round cookies, two for a penny. When we moved to North Carolina in ’71, I was in fifth grade. I got in with the tobacco guys. They were waking up at 4 o’clock in the morning. I think it might have been the summer of my sixth grade year. I would jump on the 4 o’clock truck that would come slowly down the road. That truck was like treasure. You’d hop on the back of it. The guy would throw an old sheet over us because it was still cold, there was still dew in the air and he’d take us way up into the Carthage area and we’d start priming tobacco. I started making 12 bucks a day. Three summers. Oh, my Lord, for us it was fun. They’d give us free grape soda and a pack of Nabs.”

Walter S. Morris III is a doctor. But he wasn’t always.

“Between my junior and senior year at Carolina, I was taking summer classes, but I needed a job. So I went down to Fowler’s Food Store in Chapel Hill, down at the bottom of the hill on Franklin Street. ‘Can I get a job?’ They said, ‘Yeah, we’re looking for a butcher’s assistant.’ I said, ‘Sure, I know a lot about beef and meat.’ I was young and dumb. Fowler’s was great because that was where they had the walk-in beer fridge. That’s why I went down there to apply in the first place. I didn’t get any beer privileges though. It was just to make some money, put gas in the car. Stuff like that. I was driving a silver gray Toyota, one of these little hatchback cars. I had to put my golf clubs through the middle seat just to get them in. Anyway, my job was to slice the deli meats and to clean everything after the day was done. That was the assistant’s job, to clean all the blades and the blood and guts. I did cut my finger once. It was my first trip to the hospital. Actually my second trip to the UNC Hospital because I was born there. I sliced my finger cutting bologna and had this big ol’ drip running down my arm. You remember the bologna that came with the little olives in it? I’m pretty sure that was it. You can’t make that up. I thought, this doesn’t look that much different than the blood I’m cleaning up. I got about four or five stitches for that. I’d never had stitches before. I didn’t know then that I was going to go to medical school — I was sort of pre-med — but after I went to the emergency room I thought, you know, this is pretty cool.”

Pat Corso is the executive director of Moore County Partners in Progress and served as the president and CEO of Pinehurst Resort and County Club for 17 years.

“My wife’s sister and I were friends at Ball State University. We were in a group called the University Singers. She had gone to Northern Michigan the summer before and performed at Brownwood Acres, a family business on Torch Lake. The guy that ran it was moving over to a ski and golf resort called Schuss Mountain. She came to me and said, ‘My sisters and I are going to go up and we need a guy. Would you be interested?’ Hell, yes. I was painting fire hydrants in Logansport, Indiana, the summer before. This may be a step up. It was. That’s where I met my wife, Judy. Anyway, we stole music from what we did at Ball State. We’d wait tables. The mainstay entertainment was this guy who played electric accordion and a drummer in the upstairs loft of this ski building. They would play for 40 minutes and invite us up to perform for 20. We’d put our trays down and go up and sing for 20 minutes. The place held 300 and we’d have a line out the door because it was kids, working hard and performing. We did it for three summers. The second year we brought our band up from Ball State and got rid of the accordion player. We played from 9 o’clock at night until 1 o’clock in the morning. They moved me to the door so I was the guy who seated everybody. The girls were called the Schussy Cats. A black leotard, a little barrette with ears on it, hot pink shorts and high boots. I was the lounge lizard — remember shirts with collars that a good wind would pick you up and carry you away? The bottom line is, later on, we opened our own business doing the same thing in Traverse City. We didn’t have anything, didn’t have a nickel to rub together, running around in old beater automobiles, but when you look back at those years, don’t you think, boy, didn’t we have a good time?”

John Dempsey is president of Sandhills Community College. Heck, he’s got a building named for him.

“I got out of the Navy in March of 1971 and I went to graduate school to get a master’s degree at William and Mary. I was on the GI Bill and a little bit of assistantship and we had a little baby. The end of the year came and my GI Bill ran out. My fellowship ran out. So I had no money. I mean, no money. I saw this ad in the paper. Taxicab drivers wanted. What the hell? I went down there. This is early 1972 and I’d gotten out of the Navy in March of 1971 and I hadn’t had a haircut since. Hair was big in ’71. I went in for an interview with the guy and he had a crew cut. He was making a statement just like I was making a statement. ‘I’m here about the taxicab driver’s job,’ I said. He said, ‘We don’t hire girls.’ I was 22 years old, just back from Vietnam. I’ve got two choices. I can jump over the desk and strangle this guy or I can go get my hair cut. I swallowed all my stupid Irish pride and went and got a haircut, came back and got the job. I left the house in the morning looking like a graduate student and I came back that night with a little taxicab driver’s hat on and no hair. The next day was my first day on the job. The deal was, you kept half the proceeds and tips. I discovered very quickly that my customers were not rich. Poor people take taxis because they can’t afford cars. It was unusual to get even a dime tip. I kept all my money in a little sack. The very first night I made $60, so I’d get $30 of it. I had to go to the bathroom at the end of my shift and I went into the Holiday Inn in Williamsburg and I thought I better take this money with me. I left it in the bathroom. Oh, it was so humiliating. That supercilious so-and-so. ‘College student, huh? Can’t even remember . . .’ When you have no money and a little baby you do what you have to do. After that ignominious start, I actually grew to like it. I guess it’s what being a hairdresser must be like. People talk to you about the strangest things. Every once in a while I’d get a call, go to the Williamsburg Inn. You know there’s a tip involved there. I would just schmooze them unmercifully. It got me through the summer. I got my master’s thesis written. You know what it’s done to me? It’s made me a big tipper. I over-tip everywhere I go. I know what it was like.”

Joyce Reehling is an actor and writer, a contributor to both The Pilot and PineStraw and will be appearing in the fall in the Judson Theatre Company production of Love, Loss, and What I Wore.

“The first job I had right out of college was I was Santa’s helper at Sears. I took my Bachelor of Fine Arts and immediately got a job at Sears. The guy in major appliances was Santa, a very nice guy. We took children’s pictures with Polaroids. You took the picture, then you pulled out the thing, then you waved it to make it dry before you put the sealer on it. Then blow on it. This is Sears. There was nothing fancy. I had an elf hat and that’s all. He had kind of this thronie thing for Santa. And then every 30 minutes or so we’d turn the ‘Santa’s Gone to Feed the Reindeer’ sign. And every parent just looked at you like ‘I’m going to kill you now with my bare hands.’ Some kids love to be with Santa. Some kids don’t want to be with Santa at all, ever. I forget how many children peed on Santa. I did this for like 10 days or two weeks. If you can be Santa’s helper for two weeks and not kill either a child or a parent you’ve passed some sort of huge spiritual test. The first job I had in New York was working at a 50-plug switchboard. You take the wires out and push them in. They give you no training for this. Just a headset. The woman who sat next to me was absolutely wonderful. She was very fast, very efficient, you could read every note she ever wrote. She had this darling sweet voice, a Southern voice. She’d answer your phone and you’d think you were the only person in the world, meanwhile she’s doing this for 15 people at the same time. If I got in the weeds, she’d just whip over and pick up a call for me. ‘Oh, baby, I’ll help you.’ It was the Judson Exchange, I think it was called. Behind us was this strange carousel of people who handled almost all the jingle bookings in New York. In the middle of their circle they had like Cheetos and Camel cigarettes. It was a very healthy environment. This was 1970-something. They were always smoking and talking on the phone in these raspy voices. ‘Joe, I got a session. Is this Joe’s wife? Yeah, I got a bookin’ for him. It’s a session plus 20 at 2:30. What? Oh, I’m sorry to hear that. When’s the funeral over? Can he make the 2:30?’ That’s the kind of thing you’d hear behind you.”


The Wisdom of Work

Friends and neighbors recall the peculiar jobs and summer employment that made us who we are today

Baxter Clement, Musician — “I’d just finished college and I went to New York to make music and I had day jobs. For one of my day jobs I dressed up as The Cat in the Hat and read children’s stories in grocery stores in Staten Island. I worked for the Swiffer Corporation, those little mops. Kids would come and sit on my lap, and I was dressed funny and I had a Vanderbilt degree and I was a classical guitar player and I read them stories. I don’t know why they pegged me as The Cat In the Hat but it happened.”

David Carpenter, Accountant — “I was a lint head. I worked in the cotton mill and held the following jobs on any given day: sweeper, card hand, hopper feeder (cotton and polyester), opening cotton bales, comber hand, dye house floor hand, and noil sucker. Before you attached your tube to the vacuum system and flipped the ‘on’ switch, you had to call the waste house and announce what was coming — ‘Mill No. 6, white noils!’”

Sam Walker, Minister — “My first summer job was between high school and college at Phillips Esso just over a bridge off the main drag in Avalon, New Jersey. I can still see the place. Regular gas in those days was 28 cents a gallon. My job was to greet customers, pump gas, wash front and rear windshields, check the oil, the battery, fan belts, radiator fluid and the pressure in all the tires. That summer I learned how to clean restroom toilets, polish brass handles, change oil, lubricate a car, change a flat tire, drive a stick shift, manage a tow truck and that a VW engine was not in the front. I fell in love at least every other week and opened my first bank account. I learned the value of good service, the importance of showing up and doing your job and being part of a team.”

Kevin Drum, Restaurateur — “As a teenager, I was the relish girl at the Pine Crest Inn when the girls didn’t show up. My peers gave me a really hard time but I persevered and tried to be the best relish girl I could be.”

Rose Highland-Sharpe, Minister — “My first semester at UNC-Chapel Hill, I worked at the Carolina Inn. I served the vegetables. I was very nervous about it. I wasn’t much over 100 pounds. A tiny thing back in the day. The fellas referred to me as the ‘Vegetable Girl with the Million Dollar Smile.’ I was so thankful for that job.”

David McNeill, Mayor — “In the ’60s and ’70s the city of Rocky Mount’s largest park, Sunset Park, had a children’s museum, a miniature train, a merry-go-round — or hobby horses as some called them — swimming pool, ball fields, tennis, picnic areas and a concession stand all adjacent to the Tar River. My job at age 16 or 17 was to drive the train and occasionally operate the merry-go-round — with music on LP records. We opened at 2:00 each day and closed at 9:00 p.m., just about dark. I drove the train three times around the half-mile train track for each ticket purchaser — mostly kids. In 1999 the flood after Hurricane Floyd took out the park.”

Rick Dedmond, Lawyer — “I had just graduated from UNC and I needed a summer job. I went to work for my uncle, who was a commercial building contractor, churches, schools, things like that. The first day I was down digging footers to pour concrete. I came back to work the next day and he assigned me to Wallace. For the rest of the summer, I was Wallace’s assistant. Wallace was early 40s, about 6-2, 230 pounds. I’m about 5-6 and I probably weighed about 125 pounds. Wallace wore overalls and a straw hat. Chewed cigar butts after he smoked the cigars. He drove a truck with a dump bed so we mostly cleaned up construction sites. We filled up the truck with sand and bricks and hauled off sheet rock, that sort of thing. We would remove mounds of cardboard where new pews had just been installed in a the church and take it to the cardboard recycling and sell it for enough money to buy our lunch.”

Patrick O’Donnell, Pub Owner — “I took a gap year between Montclair State and Appalachian and I’m backpacking through Cairns, Australia. I was doing willing workers on organic farms. It’s called WWOOF. You call up and say, ‘Hey, do you need anybody?’ You’re working for room and board basically. I had to go clean out the chicken coops. The things were maybe 6-feet high. When you stepped in there it was like 4 1/2 feet. You had to shovel all the chicken shit out and move it to a compost. Oh, my God, this was the worst job ever. I did that for two days.”

Mark Hawkins, Jeweler — “I worked in a convenience store in Miami, Coconut Grove, for maybe six months. That was kind of weird down there at the time. It was probably more dangerous than I realized. I learned how to make jewelry in Coconut Grove. Dropped out of the University of Miami and never looked back.”

Caroline Eddy, Non-profit Director — “Remember the stores The Record Bar? They started in Durham and sold LP albums. I was the clerk that rang up the items we sold. I loved that job.”

Marsh Smith, Lawyer — “My neighbor, Donald Ray Schulte, who was a psychiatrist, lived right across from my dad’s house on Warrior Woods Lake. He had a Jaguar. The road on the north side of the lake was so rough it would knock the muffler off his Jaguar so he ran straight pipes. Every morning he would fire that XKE Jaguar at about 6:15 and have the choke set at fast idle for the motor to warm up. That rumble was my alarm clock. It sold me on the coolness of a Jaguar. A couple, three years later when I was in college I noticed a midnight blue XKE roadster sitting outside Five Points Garage. Carl Bradshaw had a farmhouse off of Highway 211. He had an airplane hangar that had formerly been at Skyline airstrip behind Dunrovin. Carl had a condition that made him allergic to petroleum products. He would sit in his lawn chair and tell us what wrench to choose and what bolt to turn. He agreed to let the Jaguar sit in his garage and I would come home from Duke University and work on it. Then I heard about a guy in Beckley, West Virginia, who rebuilt his Jaguar, so I dropped out of school to go up there and learn about how to restore Jaguars. That lasted a couple of months. I came back and went to work for Carl. I opened up a Jaguar restoration business behind what’s now Doug’s Auto. That building was rented by Lawrence Bachman. He worked on VWs in four of the stalls and rented me one and a half stalls. I lived at the Jefferson Inn, $35 a week for a room, with linens.”

Linda Pearson, Non-profit Director — “I was a cashier at Holly Farms Fried Chicken. It was where Taco Bell is now. I remember my boss’ name was Steve.”

Doug Gill, Lawyer — “The A&W root beer stand on Lincolnway in South Bend, Indiana, was in the form of a giant root beer barrel. I worked behind the counter. My primary job, in addition to climbing up into the attic of the barrel and mixing the root beer in big vats and cleaning the fryer at the end of the evening, was to draw mugs of root beer for the carhops to deliver. On busy nights I was able to draw 12 mugs at a time by holding six mugs in each hand and then rotating them under a running root beer tap. Had I tried to sing, it would have destroyed the business.”

Earl Phipps, Police Chief — “I used to dig ditches for a water and sewer line contractor as a young man working all through Lee, Harnett, Chatham and Moore counties. In college I worked as a vacuum attendant and car detailer at a car wash in Greenville. I used to hate those minivans with the red velvet interior. They always came with a white poodle and its white curly hair stuck in the fabric came along with it. One time I was vacuuming a car and my manager said, ‘Let me know when you are ready for me to pull the car up.’ I answered, ‘OK.’ And he pulled the car up right over my foot. While I was obtaining my Basic Law Enforcement Training I worked as a shoe salesman in the mall. I lived the life of Al Bundy trying to fit size 10 feet into size 7 shoes.”

Rich Angstreich, Proprietor — “In my mid-20s I was a chimney sweep on Long Island. I saw an ad in Mother Earth News. It was this system of cleaning chimneys. You could buy the whole set-up. Home and Hearth. Once you can’t work for other people you’re doomed for the rest of your career to work for yourself.”

Lindsay Rhodes, Shop Owner — “I would handle escalator distress calls and dispatch technicians for Montgomery Kone in Greensboro. Actually it was elevators and escalators. If somebody got their shoelaces stuck in the escalator or got a stroller stuck or if people were stuck in an elevator.”

Tom Stewart, Shop Owner — “Mrs. Mac’s Jelly Kitchen was right downtown in Petoskey, Michigan. Mrs. Mac was probably 75. She would give me a list and I would go to Crago’s Grocery Store and pick up a little thing of half-and-half, Archway molasses cookies and several other things. Before the golf season started she wanted me to weed the flowers. I did such a good job I eliminated every living thing in her plot. She actually used some of that stuff in her jam and her jelly. I don’t think she was real happy. Thank God caddying came along at the right time.”

Jarrett Deerwester, Proprietor — “In Cincinnati I worked for a guy who was a West German immigrant named Willy Brandt. It was a good life lesson. I was a mechanic. The repair shop had white linoleum tile floor. You had to mop it every night. You couldn’t have so much as a screwdriver on your workbench out of place. Complete OCD German. A good first boss. Taught you appearances and details matter. I did that for two years finishing up high school.”

Fenton Wilkinson, Lawyer — “I worked for the Norfolk Redevelopment Management Authority on a brush clearing crew for projects where stuff had overgrown or houses they were going to take down and redevelop.”

Adam Faw, Teacher — “While I was in college I spent two summers working in concrete construction. The first summer I worked at a pre-cast plant in Wall Township, New Jersey. Didn’t need to work out that summer. I got all the exercise I needed lugging things around the plant. The next summer I worked for a concrete company in Boone, North Carolina, mostly in the field on curbing and sidewalk pours. I actually did some steps and railing that are still around campus at Appalachian State.”

Skipper Creed, Judge — “In high school I worked at Goldston’s Beach at the Dairy Queen for one summer. I just wanted to pretty much take the job so my dad would not send me down to his hunting property to work driving a bulldozer or backhoe and getting paid five dollars a day. The great thing about Dairy Queen is you got to see every flavor of life that came by the window. I made thousands of Blizzards. Families would go to White Lake and someone would order for the entire family, including the extended family, because they’re all staying in the different little motels and hotels there. You think they just want one order and they look at you and want 30 banana splits.”

Mark Elliott, Chef — “My dad used to hang me off the side of buildings to fix things. I think I was 11 or 12 years old. We owned a hotel in Torquay. These buildings were huge Victorian summer homes a long time ago. We were repairing the roof, three stories up. It’s like a slate roof with a flat area. He actually had me on a rope wrapped around my feet lowering me down. That is a true story, right there. There was no health and safety back then. We dug out the patio and dug in a pool so it was probably 60 feet to the ground. I remember looking down. My dad would scream, “You’ll be all right, son. I’ve got ya.” I actually got paid 25 pence an hour. That’s about 35 cents. No danger money on that one.”

Kerry Andrews, Marketing — “My only odd job was working in the arcade at a water park in Fayetteville. My friend was a lifeguard but I didn’t quite make the lifeguard status so I got to work in the arcade. They would give me quarters and I would give them tokens. Smelly bunch of 10-year-olds and wet carpet. Back then it was Galaga and Ms. Pac-Man. It was a straight on 1980s arcade with all the ding-ding-ding-ding-ding. Four hour shifts of that.”

Ken Howell, Mason — “My first ever entrepreneurial job was when I was 8, 9, 10 years old and I would buy flower seeds for a nickel in a mail order catalog and sell them for a dime. I’d walk around the neighborhood and sell flower seeds and double my money. After I got in the masonry business I worked at Roses at Christmas putting bicycles together. I would get paid $5 for a regular bike and for a 10-speed I got $10. I would go in there after hours at night, work until midnight throwing those bicycles together. I had to make extra money at Christmas and that was a good way to do it. “

Tom Pashley, Resort Director — My high school job was scooping ice cream at Häagen Dazs. After my sophomore year at college I felt like I needed to branch out. I ended up working for a temporary services company called Kelly and I remember my family saying I was a “Kelly Girl.” Whether or not they were stilling calling themselves Kelly Girls in 1989 or ’90, I don’t know. The job the agency sourced for me was in the Lamar Building in downtown Augusta, Georgia. It’s probably a 25-story building. My job was to paint the stairwells and refinish the wooden banister. There’s nothing like using a paint gun in an enclosed space to teach you the value of education.

Warren Lewis, Chef — “My dad was in real estate and every summer I had to work for one of his contractors. One of the jobs was re-bricking furnaces for big apartment buildings in Manhattan. You got so dirty, your toenails got dirty. The room was the size of a good bathroom with a door that’s like a foot by two feet. You’d climb in. Once you got in the chamber, you didn’t leave it all day. It was relatively cold. You’d have to pull all the bricks out and start re-bricking them. Five bucks an hour. You remember the Moonies, the religious cult? We did their building. They were the coolest people. They would bring us down food and stuff and feed us. We did one in Brooklyn or the Bronx that was really sad. It was a very, very poor neighborhood. They hadn’t had hot water in a year or whatever it was. The landlord finally broke down and had to get it done. These people were angry and sad and happy all at the same time.”  PS

Diamonds Are Forever

Living on the lake fulfills a fantasy

By Deborah Salomon   •   Photographs by John Gessner

Houses often represent milestones: a new baby, job promotion, retirement.

Once in a while, there’s a Cinderella factor, which better describes the desire and means to transform a ho-hum ranch into a lakefront cottage showplace filled with art and sunshine. Wielding the wand was Jayne Rhodes, who already had Prince Charming in husband Ed.

The story unfolds like this:

Jayne grew up gracefully Southern, in Lexington, North Carolina, home also to Artis Hardee, who developed Whispering Pines in the 1960s. Her friends, the Mashburns, had a summer cottage on Thagard Lake, where she spent idyllic vacations: “I loved the water, the sailboats . . . ” Sun sparkling off the wind-rippled surface reminded her of diamonds. “I carried that memory throughout my life,” she says. It’s a life that eventually brought Ed and Jayne to Moore County, where they raised a family in a Weymouth residence built in 1895, then at National Golf Club.

Jayne suspects Ed was suffering from golfing guilt when he surprised her with “I’ll do anything you want,” to which she replied, “Let’s drive out to Whispering Pines, see if a house is for sale.”

They spied one, with a lock box. Ed, being a Realtor, had a key.

“We walked in and that was it,” says Jayne, recalling a day 20 years ago. “I looked beyond the house and saw the view.”

The house, built in 1968 by a Navy admiral from California, had high ceilings and hardwood floors but not much zip after standing empty for years. “When we came back the amount of work made Ed sick. It was just old, but we’re good at remodeling,” Jayne rationalized. “Don’t worry, baby. It’ll be fine.”

Jayne’s vision of “fine” would challenge the most determined fairy godmother.

With the view as her lodestar and an eye for design, Jayne marshaled forces.

First, a layout adjustment. The small kitchen looked out onto a carport, which made it dark. That space became the formal dining room, while the elongated living room-dining area became all living room divided into two sections by furnishings and area rugs. At the end, a sun porch the depth of the house became the bright, sunny kitchen with many windows, vanilla cabinetry, cocoa granite countertops and — just imagine — a framed mirror over the range cooktop. “I can stand at the stove cooking, and see that painting (Jayne points to the end of the living room) reflected in the mirror.” Another novelty: The center island is L-shaped, with the sink positioned so Jayne can see beyond the breakfast room to her precious lake, while washing dishes.

That breakfast room represents a separate chapter. Ten years ago a squirrel found its way into the kitchen. While repairing the damage, Jayne and Ed decided to add this space, entirely surrounded by windows, as well as a deck, all facing that mesmerizing view.

Jayne isn’t sure why the main floor has only one bedroom, the master suite, with a ceiling vault that brings in even more light. Perhaps the admiral and his wife preferred privacy.

The staircase to the above-ground basement is open, making it as much a part of the foyer as one leading up would be. On this level, the family living room with raised fireplace and antique mantel, looks out onto gardens, a hammock, fire pit and dock through paned French doors which replaced Holiday Inn sliding glass. Two bedrooms and a bath accommodate the Rhodes’ three daughters and their families during frequent visits.

Miles of moldings, painted paneling, beadboard, columns and louvered windows lift this ordinary ranch to a higher architectural level. Its contents fuel another narrative.

Sandhills Community College changed my life,” Jayne says. She always wanted to paint, realized an aptitude and finally enrolled at SCC, studying with Denise Baker. “In class I got the idea of a framing business.” As a result, Framer’s Cottage opened in 2001. The downtown Southern Pines gallery sold furnishings and décor accessories, as well as offering designer framing. Here, Jayne became acquainted with local artists while fine-tuning her passion for art. Her collection, including some of her own charcoals, dominates the house, from a picture rail near the living room ceiling, to a photo-quality painting of spring blossoms hanging over an antique ice box. “Ed gave me that on a date,” she smiles. “He said if you marry me, I’ll buy it for you.”

The ice box, a church altar piece/foyer table, her mother’s corner cupboard, a dry sink and a few more family antiques complement Jayne’s penchant for dark woods, leather upholstery (impervious to grandchildren) and outdoor hues — pale, mossy green, beiges and browns brightened with ivory and white present in every room.  Primary colors are limited to the paintings, several reminiscent (along with terra cotta tile flooring) of Spain, where Jayne attended university, perfecting the language and absorbing the flair.

She adores the look of distressed painted pieces, which repeat throughout the house, even on ceramic and pottery lamps which, Jayne proudly confirms, are made in America.

Most unusual are wall treatments accomplished by “printing” a pattern directly onto the paint. In the dining room Jayne used a comb to achieve the modular block effect. Downstairs, she replicated a feathery design with . . . a feather duster.

Overall, Jayne describes her décor as transitional, a mix of traditional and contemporary falling just south of eclectic.

Like every fairy tale, this one has a scary part.

The Rhodes bought their lake house in October 1997. With renovations almost complete, moving was set for Dec. 9. The day before, Jayne went to buy more paint. Her car was hit at a stop light, causing serious injuries requiring surgery. Friends and her Sunday School classmates pitched in. By the time she came home from the hospital, almost everything was in place. “Our world had changed in a moment but the diamonds on the water helped me convalesce,” Jayne recalls. Then, when she could walk, she enrolled at Sandhills.

Ed experienced a scare, too. While carrying a refrigerator down the stairs on his back, he heard an ominous crack. Miraculously, he wasn’t injured. Later, a penny was found at the scene of the near mishap. Jayne called it Ed’s “lucky penny,” framed and hung it near the scene of the misadventure beside a lucky paper penny she brought from Spain.

Window boxes, creeping ivy, flower beds and bright green grass sloping toward the lake complete the transformation from ranch to cottage. The final details address the exterior: an antique front door and painted shingles covering plank siding. Jayne added rose trellises to that carport, which remains an homage to the decade when Whispering Pines was born.

So, in the end, Jayne’s fairy tale came true: a house on the lake of sparkling diamonds conjuring long-ago summers spent with a BFF. A house where grandkids can eat drippy popsicles on the sofa. A house with fine paintings and traditional furnishings from Drexel but no Sub-Zero, in a neighborhood newly invigorated by young families.

Most important, a husband whose doubts were put to rest by the finished product. “As long as Jayne’s happy . . . ”  PS

Lining Up for Liberty

Southern Pines’ peaceful integration during the turbulent ’60s

By Bill Case

Though it seems like yesterday for those who lived through it, 50 years have elapsed since the assassination of the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. in Memphis, Tennessee. While poignant newsreel footage of racial clashes in places like Montgomery, Selma and Little Rock are enduring images, the struggle to end discrimination extended throughout the South. In Greensboro, a seminal event took place in 1960 when four black students from North Carolina A&T (the Greensboro Four) protested Woolworth’s whites-only lunch counter by refusing to budge from their seats. The success of these sit-ins sparked further civil rights activism in the state, including the “Freedom Riders” bus trips. All of it — and more — gave North Carolina its own share of civil rights heroes. And a number of them hailed from Southern Pines.

While protests against Jim Crow laws and practices — and the reaction to those protests — engendered a degree of hard feelings, the Old North State was spared the racial violence that many areas of the Deep South experienced during the 1960s. The progressive leadership of Terry Sanford, the state’s governor from 1961 to 1965, did much to diffuse tensions. In January 1963, Sanford created the North Carolina Good Neighbor Council to “encourage the employment of qualified people without regard to race, and to encourage youth to become better trained and qualified for employment.” The governor appointed an equal number of whites and blacks to the 20-member council. Later that summer, he urged communities to form similar Good Neighbor Councils to achieve the same goals at the local level.

While not prescribing a specific method for forming those councils, Gov. Sanford’s announcement provided an example of how concerned citizens could get one started. His press release mentioned a unique approach used in Wilson “where a Negro civic club gained the support of the Chamber of Commerce and then the two jointly made a successful appeal to the County Commissioners.”

Rev. John W. Peek, then the African-American pastor of West Southern Pines’ Harrington Chapel Free Will Baptist Church, and the president of the West Southern Pines Civic Club, took notice. He thought it would be a good idea for his Civic Club to lead its own effort to end discrimination in Southern Pines. On June 18, 1963, Rev. Peek spoke at a meeting of the Town Council, imploring it to authorize the formation of the Southern Pines Good Neighbor Council “to peacefully meet the demands of the time and work toward the ending of discrimination of race in our community.” According to The Pilot, roughly 75 African-American residents of West Southern Pines, Mayor W. Morris Johnson and councilmen C.A. McLaughlin, Fred Pollard, Norris Hodgkins Jr. and Felton Capel listened intently to Rev. Peek’s presentation.

The pastor acknowledged that progress had been made locally but Southern Pines was still a place where African-American women were not permitted to try on clothing in the two dress shops, and blacks were denied entry to its restaurants. He said racial tension was “widespread” and, to avoid misunderstandings, a Good Neighbor Council would establish a more direct means of communication between the races. The minister summed up by saying, “What the Negro wants is to work at a job he likes, to decide where he wants to dine, to attend cultural, social, and recreation centers, to be admitted to hotels and motels, and to attend the church and school of his choice.”

Peek’s suggestion would have fallen on deaf ears in some communities. Southern Pines wasn’t one of them. The Town Council unanimously approved the formation of a Good Neighbor Council (GNC) with a membership to comprise an equal number of whites and blacks. The Town Council underscored its support for the new group by adopting a resolution confirming the town government’s own policy of non-discrimination, significant because there were no federal or state civil rights laws preventing racial discrimination in employment or access to public accommodations.

Rev. Peek assumed responsibility for appointing the five African-American members to the newly formed GNC. He selected Sally Lawhorne, Iris Moore, Edward Stubbs, Ciscero Carpenter Jr. and himself. Mayor Johnson appointed the following white members: Kathryn Gilmore (then wife of Southern Pines’ former Mayor Voit Gilmore), Harry Chatfield, Robert Cushman, James Hobbs and Rev. Dr. Julian Lake, the minister at Brownson Memorial Presbyterian Church. Though he’d only been in town a matter of months Lake was selected to chair the group and Peek became vice-chair. The appointees came from a variety of backgrounds. “One is an industrialist, two are insurance men, one is in the real estate business, one is a housewife, one a teacher, one a domestic servant, one works in a chain store, and two are ministers, ” said Dr. Lake.

The chain store worker was 22-year-old Ciscero Carpenter Jr., employed as a cashier at Southern Pines’ A&P supermarket, a job he got because a manager had been impressed by Carpenter’s rapid advancement during his three-year hitch in the Navy. At first, some shunned the register manned by the young vet. As it turned out there was a limit to how often white customers were willing to pick the slow line. Speed and efficiency won out, and folks gravitated to his aisle.

Carpenter had spent a significant portion of his formative years at Weymouth House where both parents worked for James and Katharine Boyd. Ciscero Carpenter Sr. saw to the horses and tended the Moore County hounds while his wife cooked and did housework inside the home. Ciscero Jr. was actually born in the space that today serves as the Weymouth Center’s visiting writers’ quarters. As a favorite of Mrs. Boyd, the lad had the run of the place, even attending functions in the home as a guest, not as a servant. He palled around with the Boyds’ son, Jimmy, and the other neighborhood white kids.

The GNC members quickly established collegial relations with one another. Carpenter, now the group’s last surviving member, remembers that “we all became friends.” An executive committee was formed consisting of Lake, Peek, Moore and Gilmore. Seven working committees were established, “job opportunities” and “public accommodations” among them. Carpenter was selected to head the “education” committee. Dr. Lake later recalled that the members emphatically committed themselves to refraining from violence or political pressure. The GNC’s selected motto was “persuasion and not pressure.” However, Dr. Lake acknowledged that many of his fellow GNC members felt like “Daniel felt entering the lions’ den” given what promised to be an uphill battle persuading local businesses to change their ways. Even owners sympathetic to the aims of the GNC were expressing concern that integrating their establishments could result in an adverse impact to their bottom lines.

The GNC members fanned out across Southern Pines, urging its business owners to eliminate racial discrimination in their enterprises. Strong support from white and black pastors comprising the Southern Pines Ministerial Association, coupled with the leadership of the two church leaders heading up the GNC, bolstered the group’s moral authority. In late August of ’63, Dr. Lake reported to the Town Council that all of the industries in town were accepting job applications from African-Americans and pledged that candidates would be considered for employment without regard to race. The times, they were a-changin’.

Progress was also taking place on the public accommodations front, albeit at a less rapid pace. A majority of the restaurants, motels and other public facilities were now willing to serve the general public regardless of race. Gilmore, owner of the local Howard Johnson’s motel and restaurant, had led the way earlier by welcoming blacks at his HoJos in 1960. But holdouts still remained.

In October of ’63, Dr. Lake issued a statement in the newspaper stressing the underlying righteousness of the GNC’s cause, citing the biblical commandment that “Thou shalt love thy neighbor as thyself.” He exhorted residents to “speak a good word to and for those stores, restaurants, hotels, motels, business houses, and industries who are now ready to employ and serve persons of both races.” The Pilot’s progressive editor Katharine Boyd offered unwavering support, observing in an editorial, “Negroes only want to be treated like everybody else.”

Despite Dr. Lake’s heartfelt appeal to their better angels, some business owners still resisted. Increasingly, the GNC turned to town councilman and former Civic Club President Felton Capel to assist it in finding a way forward. By then, the 38-year-old African-American resident of West Southern Pines and successful entrepreneur had gained the respect of nearly everyone in the community. In meetings at the Civic Club, Capel would counsel everyone to refrain from direct confrontation, and to continue following a policy of negotiation that often meant accepting piecemeal changes.

Capel described how this strategy worked in a 1987 interview. “I recall when we had a bowling alley in town and we would send them (blacks) in by couples. You know they had this thing about tokenism. They’d accept you if you didn’t send in but one or two or three.” Felton further reflected, “We’d get two white couples and two black couples and we went bowling. That’s how we started breaking that down.”

Gilmore and Capel often formed a tag team to break barriers. Once Gilmore called a public golf course that had excluded blacks and advised the pro that he desired a tee time for himself and Capel, “and that Felton was not going to be my caddie.” The two friends enjoyed their round.

Capel freely acknowledged that he leveraged his position as a councilman and Gilmore’s status in the community to wrangle entry where other blacks would have been barred. “It would be awkward (for recreational facilities owners) not to give the opportunity to play,” he would later say, “since I’ve got to sit up there (on Town Council) and appropriate monies and vote for them through travel promotions and get money to come in.” These groundbreaking entries provided significant inroads at a time when legal remedies for discriminatory practices simply didn’t exist. But the duo’s success did not always mean a permanent end to discrimination at an establishment. In 1962, Sunrise Theatre management permitted Gilmore and Capel to watch a movie together on the main floor despite the theater’s policy restricting blacks to seats in the balcony. But this proved to be a one-time exception, and segregated seating at the Sunrise continued thereafter unabated.

By March 1964, the GNC’s policy of friendly persuasion had resulted in remarkable and peaceful transformation. Dr. Lake reported that just two small restaurants still barred blacks altogether. Emulating the tactics of Capel and Gilmore, the GNC members volunteered to patronize the holdout restaurants for a week to demonstrate to the owners that the two races could dine together. One declined. The other agreed to the benefit of all — as Dr. Lake suggested.

Though blacks could now gain entry to nearly all Southern Pines’ service establishments, it did not sit well with the GNC that Charlotte’s Stewart & Everett Theatres, Inc., the owner of the Sunrise Theatre, still kept black and white customers apart once they purchased their tickets. Black patrons could only reach their assigned balcony area by ascending the exterior fire escape that now provides entry to a yoga studio. Stewart & Everett aggravated the situation by dividing the balcony with a partition so that white customers preferring to view a flick from a higher vantage point would do so without mingling with those of another race.

At the request of the Town Council, Stewart & Everett’s president, Charles Trexler, came to Southern Pines on April 23, 1964, for a meeting with the council and the GNC executive committee to address these grievances. New Mayor Norris Hodgkins Jr. mediated the discussions. At the session, Trexler announced three measures that Stewart & Everett would be taking: (1) the doors from the partition running down the middle of the balcony would be removed; (2) a concession stand would be installed in the balcony; and (3) the theater would integrate immediately if civil rights legislation was passed by Congress — or would resume negotiations with the Southern Pines GNC if it became apparent that such legislation would not pass. It was then uncertain whether President Lyndon B. Johnson’s pending civil rights legislation would be enacted. The bill was stalled in Congress due to intense filibustering by Southern senators, including Sam Ervin and B. Everett Jordan from North Carolina.

Trexler may have considered these steps meaningful, but the GNC attendees essentially viewed them as a dodge since the company was still unwilling to stop segregating theater patrons unless legally required to do so. The unappeased Dr. Lake and Rev. Peek informed Trexler and the Town Council that the Stewart & Everett proposal was unsatisfactory.

In its 10 months of existence, the GNC had refrained from conducting public protests and demonstrations since the group’s strategy of privately negotiating with the town’s business owners had paid dividends. This time, the GNC leadership concluded that the stiff-armed resistance by such a high profile business could not go unchallenged. Immediately after the meeting, the GNC began planning a demonstration at the Sunrise, scheduling it for April 26th prior to a 3 p.m. Sunday matinee showing of the forgettable Tony Randall vehicle, 7 Faces of Dr. Lao.

Working together, the GNC members developed a novel plan for the demonstration. A number of African-Americans, including several youngsters, would be chosen to stand in line at the Sunrise’s box office. Once at the head of the line, the would-be moviegoers would ask to be seated on the main floor. Expecting the request to be denied, the rejected individuals would cycle through the line repeatedly, each time renewing their seating requests. The demonstration didn’t involve any speeches or chants. The GNC calculated its low-key approach would make its case more effectively than any provocative strategy could.

The black members of the GNC set about rallying support from the various West Southern Pines churches and the Civic Club urging their members to be in attendance outside the theater once the line formed for the movie. Dr. Lake and the white contingent of the GNC were also on board. According to The Pilot, at the appointed hour the “Negro men and women, all well-dressed young people, lined up in front of the box office where Robert Dutton, local theater manager . . . refused to sell them tickets.” Three of the demonstrators contacted for this story believe a woman, and not Dutton, was working in the box office. In any event, each of the blacks in line — wearing a small, hand-printed card pinned to his or her clothing stating the reason for the demonstration — was turned away. As planned, this process would continually repeat itself. Rev. Peek and Capel did not stand in the line but kept an eye on things to make sure the demonstration proceeded without incident. Sgt. Charles Wilson provided a police presence across the street where 30 or so African-Americans and some whites looked on from the railroad platform.

White patrons lined up to see the movie, too, and most seemed unconcerned that they were caught in the middle of a civil rights demonstration. The Pilot noted that “(t)he addition of the white patrons, who all received tickets as they reached the box office, resulted in separation of the Negroes at some places along the line which at one time exceeded 100 feet or more.” The recurring discussions at the box office between the demonstrators and the ticket salesperson about why management would not admit the black patrons to the main floor slowed the movement of the line considerably, causing some impatience, even among the youngest of the demonstrators. Felton’s son Mitch Capel, then just 9 and now a professional storyteller appearing across the country as “Gran’daddy Junebug,” was cajoled into staying in the line by his mother’s promise of a treat from the bakery next door. Longtime West Southern Pines resident Clifton Bell, then a teenager, also recollects devouring tasty doughnuts from the bakery following his long stints in the line. Eventually, Dutton started a separate line so the white customers could proceed without further delay into the theater.

The account appearing in The Pilot said the demonstration was peaceful in all respects. But something happened to Ciscero Carpenter Jr. while waiting his place in line that, had he been less stoic, might have led to a more chaotic outcome. “I got shot with a pellet gun just above and between my eyes,” says the Navy veteran, showing the resulting bump on his forehead, still evident 54 years later. He was more stunned than hurt. “I saw the guy that did it. I remember Iris Moore (GNC member) comforted me. I did not react. Don’t know what would have happened if I had.”

According to The Pilot there came a time when Felton Capel pulled the youngest demonstrators (including Mitch) out of the line, perhaps feeling the need to protect the younger demonstrators after the incident with the pellet gun, though no one can say for sure. The demonstration continued for over half an hour with some of the participants cycling up to the box office as many as 10 times.

While Stewart & Everett still refused to change its policy, reaction to the conduct of the demonstration was generally favorable. Katharine Boyd’s editorial commended “the quality of the dignified demonstration conducted here
. . . Such a protest is deserving of as much or more response by theatre ownership as the response evoked by protests — some of which we are told, were not as orderly — at other theaters of the chain.”

Proponents of the Civil Rights Act finally broke through the Senate filibuster, and on July 2, Johnson signed the act into law. Shortly thereafter, Dutton admitted four young blacks into the Sunrise. They were allowed to patronize the concession stand and sit anywhere they liked, including the main floor. It was a watershed moment, and other breakthroughs followed. Later in the summer, the new West Southern Pines swimming pool was completed and opened to all races. At the dedication, Mayor Hodgkins paid tribute to the GNC and its unstinting efforts to foster good will and peaceful change.

There were still skirmishes to come. The consolidation and desegregation of the local schools brought new challenges that were not always dealt with smoothly. And equal opportunity of employment remained elusive for many, including Carpenter who, despite stellar qualifications, was continually stonewalled. Frustrated, he elected to re-enlist in the Navy in June of ’64 where he built on his admirable service record, even drafting a manual the Navy uses to this day. After retiring from the service in 1981, he returned to West Southern Pines, working long past normal retirement age.

Now, Carpenter prefers not to dwell on the discrimination he faced as a younger man. “It only made me stronger and work harder,” he says. But he is proud that Southern Pines was more “advanced” in addressing and remedying racial discrimination than some other parts of the state. And he takes special pride in the role he played.

Two leaders who played important roles in the civil rights movement in Southern Pines died recently: Felton Capel and Norris Hodgkins Jr. Peaceful change in a turbulent time is their legacy. But, one suspects, they would be the first to say, they didn’t march alone.  PS

Pinehurst resident Bill Case is Pinestraw’s history man. He can be reached at Bill.Case@thompsonhine.com.

Almanac

By Ash Alder

June evening fades in such a way you wonder if it’s all a dream.

We let go of spring, our palms now cupped to receive the first blackberries, scuppernongs, Cherokee Purples warm from the sun.

Plump strawberries slowly vanish from the patch, and when the fireflies come out to dance, out, too, comes the homemade mead. 

This year, summer solstice falls on Thursday, June 21. We celebrate the longest day of the year with bare feet, new intentions, sacred fire and dance. Now until Dec. 21, the days are getting shorter.

Savor the fragrant amalgam of honeysuckle and wild rose. Feel the hum of heavy hives, porch fans and crickets. And as cicadas serenade you into dreamy oblivion, sip slowly the sweetness of this golden season.

Whistling for More

I can’t see “Butter Beans” hand-painted on a roadside sign without hearing the Little Jimmy Dickens tune my grandpa used to sing or hum or whistle to himself on quiet Sunday drives:

Just a bowl of butter beans
Pass the cornbread if you please
I don’t want no collard greens
All I want is a bowl of butter beans.

Red-eye gravy is all right
Turnip sandwich a delight
But my children all still scream
For another bowl of butter beans.

When they lay my bones to rest
Place no roses upon my chest
Plant no blooming evergreens
All I want is a bowl of butter beans.

The Carolina Chocolate Drops sing a much sultrier song about this summer staple, but both tunes suggest that, in the South, the lima is the darling of beans.

Good for the heart (this sparks another ditty but we won’t go there), butter beans are rich in dietary fiber, protein, minerals and antioxidant compounds.

Slow cook them or toss them in a cold summer salad. Regardless of how you choose to eat them, best to get them fresh while you can. 

On this June day, the buds in my garden are almost as enchanting as the open flowers. Things in bud bring, in the heat of a June noontide, the recollection of the loveliest days of the year — those days of May when all is suggested, nothing yet fulfilled. – Francis King

Magic, Mighty Oak   

When the sun sets on Saturday, June 23, bonfires will crackle in the spirit of Saint John’s Eve. On this night, the ancient Celts would powder their eyelids with fern spores in hopes of seeing wee nature spirits dancing on the threshold between worlds.

The Celts sure loved their nature spirits. According to Celtic tree astrology, those born from June 10 — July 7 resonate with the sacred oak, a tree said to embody cosmic wisdom and regal power within its expansive roots, trunk and branches. Strong and nurturing, oak types radiate easy confidence. They’re most compatible with ash (Jan. 22 — Feb. 18) and reed (Oct. 28 — Nov. 24) and ivy (Sept. 30 — Oct. 27).

If you find yourself in the company of an ancient oak on a dreamy summer evening, do be on the lookout for playful flashes of light. 

I wonder what it would be like to live in a world where it was always June. – L. M. Montgomery

Gifts for Papa

Father’s Day falls on Sunday, June 17. I think of my papa’s old fishing hat, how it would slide down my brow and, eventually, past my eyelids, then remember his hearty laugh. A few seeds of inspiration for the beloved patriarch in your life:

A new feather for the old cap.

Homemade bread for mater sandwiches.

Pickled okra — local and with a kick!

Homemade mead.

Seeds for the fall garden: lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, pumpkin. 

Poem

A Thoughtful Response

Quick answers are not planned

Not as rich as one wants

But with the time needed

We give back so much more

One man asks his girl

Do you love me?

She reflects, breathes deeply, and raises an eyebrow

Then, exhaling, she responds with a smile

The air between them froze

Complicated relationships

Deserve more

But often we find answers in the curl of a lip

The angle of an eyebrow

The chisel of a chin

The finer movements in our face

Often speak without words

— Murray Dunlap

Birds of Paradise

Exploring a hidden Carolina Bay

Photographs by Laura L. Gingerich

Carefully holding her camera above the surface of the water, Laura Gingerich waded into the forest swamp up to her armpits. Her feet sank into the slippery rot and muck on the bottom. Like quicksand, the more she moved, the more the ground swallowed her legs, nearly reaching her knees. Beyond a stand of cypress, she saw a clearing. By then the water was touching her chin. Turning a corner, they appeared in front of her. It was a robust, diverse community of birds, a breeding spot for snowy egret, great egret, great blue heron, green heron, cormorant and anhinga. Awe replaced trepidation. In the months that followed, Gingerich used a jon boat, a kayak and a canoe to return over and over again to the swamp, gathering photographs of this rare inland rookery in Robeson County.

“It’s one of the clay-based Carolina Bays,” says Jeff Marcus of the Nature Conservancy. “Carolina Bays are these unique geological features, rare isolated wetlands that occur primarily in the coastal plain of North and South Carolina. They’re all elliptical in shape and all kind of oriented to the northwest and southeast. It’s been a hotly debated topic as to what the origins of these things are. People have speculated everything from meteor impacts to dinosaur or whale wallows. The most prevalent theory is that it has more to do with the wind and wave actions when the Coastal Plain was a shallow sea.”

This bay, like many others, is protected by the Nature Conservancy. “What makes this site interesting is that most of those birds primarily are kind of coastal breeders. They’re found in the greatest abundance right at the coast, nesting on barrier islands, so it is somewhat unusual to have a large rookery so far inland,” says Marcus. “It’s great to get people more interested and aware and excited about all the natural history we have right in our own backyard. We don’t always appreciate what a special and unique place it is to live where we do.”

Anyone interested in visiting a site like the rookery in Robeson County or in becoming a member of the Nature Conservancy can call the Sandhills field office at (910) 246-0300.

Shooting Star

Whether capturing images of golf or war, no one did it better than Pinehurst photographer John Hemmer

By Bill Case

The grammar school dropout was forever on the move. There were times he bolted into the darkroom of his employer’s photographic studio to hide from an approaching truant officer. More often, the errand boy ran pell-mell to the offices of New York City newspapers and magazines, lugging a pouch stuffed with the newsy photographs of the day snapped by the studio’s owner, Edwin Levick, and his seven assistant photographers.

The success of Levick’s photographic services business depended on speed. The first good images of a newsworthy event to reach the syndicated media were the ones most likely to be published, and pay off. So, Brooklyn-reared John Hemmer — the dropout, the errand boy — learned long before he clicked his first shutter that, in the photography trade, there was no substitute for being in the right place at the right time.

In 1910, when Hemmer was just 18, one of Levick’s assistant photographers incorrectly loaded the powder in the flash lamp of one of the cameras. The magnesium powder could be nasty stuff. Careless photographers were known to set rooms, or even themselves, on fire. The resulting explosion singed the face of a supervisor, who fired the assistant on the spot. Hemmer was standing nearby. The agitated boss thrust the camera at the teenager and commanded, “Get some pictures, Hemmer!” He didn’t stop for 60 years.

With a working knowledge of photography gained from Levick, a transplanted Englishman, and his agency’s other cameramen, Hemmer raced around New York again, but this time with cameras and equipment in tow instead of a satchel. Like Mozart to music, he took to the work immediately. The cutthroat world of syndicated photography wasn’t for the timid. Veteran competitors told him to “get lost,” but the feisty Hemmer couldn’t be bullied. “If I didn’t fight back, or think up new tricks, I went back without any pictures, and that was a sure way to get fired,” he said later. His determination was fueled by an innate self-confidence. Hemmer told The Pilot’s Mary Evelyn de Nissoff that, during his New York days, when he arose each morning, he “felt like shouting from the housetop, ‘I’m John Hemmer!’”

The sharp-elbowed photographers were forever conjuring up new methods to scoop one another. Hemmer recalled the novel way his well-heeled competitors from Hearst Publications covered the arrival of major ships. “The Hearst boys started using carrier pigeons to relay their film from the press boat back to the city, and their pictures were usually in print by the time the rest of us got back to the dock,” Hemmer said. The system, however, had its flaws. There were times, Hemmer chuckled, when the pigeons “circled the ship and lit on the mast.”

As the agency’s junior photographer, Hemmer was often sent to what Levick, a premier maritime photographer, considered secondary assignments. One was golf — a sport barely out of its infancy in America. Hemmer’s first tournament was the 1911 U.S. Amateur, held at the Apawamis Club in Rye, New York. His golf photos were barely noticed until the 1913 U. S. Open at The Country Club in Brookline, Massachusetts. The routine assignment became a godsend when a 20-year-old amateur and former caddie at the host club, Francis Ouimet, emerged the winner. Ouimet’s unlikely playoff upset over the British duo of Ted Ray and the incomparable Harry Vardon, written about some 90 years later in the book The Greatest Game Ever Played, jump-started more than just golf in America — it jump-started John Hemmer, too. His photographs of Ouimet’s victory at Brookline were in high demand. Suddenly, Hemmer found himself catapulted into the upper ranks of the game’s photographers.

When an important golf tournament popped up on the schedule, Levick would turn to Hemmer. In the early days, Hemmer and his fellow shutterbugs seldom strayed from the clubhouse until the players finished their rounds. The winners lined up for pictures. “No one had ever thought of going out on the course until one day I got interested in seeing what I could photograph out there,” Hemmer recalled. He began lugging his bulky gear, 60 pounds or more, onto the course to capture images of key shots, revolutionizing tournament photography. Respected by his colleagues, Hemmer became the first president of the New York Press Photographers Association.

Though the German-Irish kid from Flatbush had an expertise in sports photography, he swore off baseball after an unnerving experience at the Polo Grounds. Hemmer was in the process of shooting the Giants’ star pitcher (and future Hall of Famer), Rube Marquard, warming up on the sidelines. Suddenly Marquard fired a fastball that whizzed close by the photographer’s head. “Don’t you ever take my picture again!” warned the irate southpaw, who harbored a superstition, shared by many of the era’s ballplayers, that photography constituted a sort of black art that could bring ill to those who consented to have their picture taken.

Hemmer married Anna Flynn in 1918, just prior to serving in World War I as a Signal Corps cameraman attached to the American Expeditionary Force Siberia. This forgotten theater of “The Great War” involved the efforts of 7,950 Army officers and enlisted men to protect the equipment and supplies the United States had sent to the Tsarist regime from being seized by the Bolsheviks. The Expedition also assisted the Czechoslovak Legion in its evacuation from Russia. By all accounts, Siberia’s bleak tundra made for a miserable posting as the freezing soldiers continually faced shortages of food and supplies. Hemmer experienced a  harrowing encounter crossing Siberia by railroad: “The train broke down. It was 60 below outside,” he recalled. “I tried to go out and make pictures of the train in the snow, but I couldn’t. The wolves wouldn’t let me off the train.” Hemmer managed to emerge from his war service unscathed, and in 1919, returned to his New York job with Levick. In 1923, John and Anna celebrated the birth of their son, John L. Hemmer.

In July, 1924, following the death of Pinehurst photographer Edmund Merrow, Richard Tufts approached Levick in search of a photographer for the resort’s Mid-South golf tournament, to be held in late October. Tufts also needed a man for a number of Pinehurst events scheduled for March. Levick agreed to provide a cameraman for both, then failed to produce one in October. A disappointed Tufts wrote that the no-show for the Mid-South breached “very definite arrangements.” Levick cavalierly dismissed the blown assignment as being not worth the trouble. “It would have to be more tangible than just a single tournament to justify even an assistant at Pinehurst,” he responded.

While Tufts may have seethed at the offhand treatment, Levick nonetheless possessed working relationships with all of the Eastern newspapers. Tufts decided to let the agency cover Pinehurst’s March 1925 events as planned.  On March 23rd, Levick advised the resort owner that his selected assistant was on route to Pinehurst, assuring him, “My assistant, John Hemmer, who will cover the assignment, knows golf thoroughly and has been with us now some sixteen or seventeen years.”

Four days after Hemmer’s arrival, Tufts wrote Levick. “We are very favorably impressed by him [Hemmer] and are looking forward to good results from his work here.” Though Hemmer’s first stint in Pinehurst was brief, it was long enough for the buttoned-up Tufts to conclude that he wanted the New Yorker back. Always on time, nattily attired in dark suit, white shirt, vest and tie, and attentive to Tufts’ desire that photos be promptly forwarded to resort guests’ hometown newspapers, Hemmer quickly ingratiated himself with the boss. The guests liked him, too. Easygoing behind the camera, Hemmer’s mugging and quips never failed to bring a smile to those he was photographing. And Levick promised Tufts that his assistant’s Pinehurst pictures would be displayed in even more  newspapers the following season.

By July 1925, Tufts was inclined to cut out the middleman. He suggested to Hemmer, “if you feel you are in position yourself to give us good publicity we might be interested in making arrangements with you rather than Mr. Levick on somewhat the same basis.” He also suggested that Hemmer consider spending the entire winter season (October to May) in Pinehurst, promising that he and connected persons in the community could funnel plenty of business his way.

Enchanted by Pinehurst, Hemmer leaped at the offer. He advised Tufts that he was making arrangements with a firm to place Pinehurst photos “not only in the metropolitan papers, but all through the east, west, north, and south.” Soon, John, Anna and John Jr. were snugly housed in Pinehurst’s Laurel Cottage, where the Given Outpost is now — the cottage was razed in 1934 to make way for Pinehurst’s post office. He opened “Hemmer’s Photo Shop,” initially in the Harvard Building, thereafter at the Carolina Hotel.

The diversity of Pinehurst, Inc.’s activities afforded Hemmer a wide variety of subjects for his lens. Photographing sporting activities like golf (particularly the North and South tournaments), shooting at the gun club, tennis, gymkhanas and horse racing constituted the bulk of his work. Hemmer took a raft of  publicity pictures at the Tufts’ brand new golf course at Pine Needles, including several of Donald Ross hitting shots. The many celebrities that found their way to Pinehurst couldn’t leave town without posing for Hemmer. Images of the Tufts’ agricultural operations, like the piggery and the farm’s cattle, were snapped by Hemmer’s all-seeing camera. Leonard Tufts (Richard’s father), proud of  his renowned Ayrshire cattle breeding operation, even suggested to the photographer that if famous people like Will Rogers or Gloria Swanson were in residence, “you should get a picture of them milking the old cow” — Leonard’s prized Ayrshire he lovingly named Tootsy Mitchell.

Hemmer also created a remarkable series of photographs  featuring  Pinehurst’s African-American caddies. Colorful loopers with sobriquets like “Dr. Buzzard,” “Hog Eye,” “Calvin Coolidge” and “Dr. Hawk” captured by his weather-beaten camera make up a collection of images that ranks among the Tufts Archives’ most cherished. Hemmer’s horseracing photos drew particular admiration given his uncanny ability to snap galloping steeds with all four hooves airborne. Hemmer also arranged for his Pinehurst photographs to be transformed into postcards. The dissemination of the hand-colored cards, designed to portray Pinehurst’s peaceful and idyllic atmosphere, provided an invaluable boon to the resort’s promotional efforts.

A February 1926 article in The Pilot gushed, “Mr. Hemmer . . . has beaten all previous records for the number of Pinehurst pictures published during a season. Every real newsstand in America puts out some paper every day exhibiting specimens of Mr. Hemmer’s art and genius. He is giving this section the highest type of publicity it has ever enjoyed.”

During summers, Hemmer would return to New York, where he continued the hunt for newsworthy subjects. He found a good one on a cloudy morning in May, 1927 at New York’s Roosevelt Field, where a sandy-haired Midwestern pilot named Charles Lindbergh was preparing to take off in his daunting attempt to make the first aerial crossing of the Atlantic. Learning that Lindbergh had completely exhausted his funds in preparing for the epic flight, a sympathetic Hemmer passed the hat among the assembled media types in order to scrape together sufficient cash to buy sandwiches and a thermos of coffee for the young flyer’s journey.

Much like Forrest Gump, Hemmer seemed to always be on hand, playing a contributing role at historically important events. His timing was once again impeccable at  the 1930 U.S. Amateur at Merion Golf Club where Bobby Jones’ 8 and 7 victory over Eugene Homans provided the last of his four major championship victories that year. Later Hemmer would say that photographing Jones’ Grand Slam was his greatest thrill.

In Pinehurst, Hemmer immersed himself in civic activities. He became commander of the local American Legion post and a director of the Chamber of Commerce. Though never a golfer himself, Hemmer did gain a reputation as a crack gin rummy player and inveterate hunter of arrowheads. After Laurel Cottage was razed, Hemmer moved his family across the street to  Cherokee Cottage (behind the Theatre Building and now the site of the Maples Building). Hemmer’s reputation continued to grow. Bob Harlow, American golf’s greatest promoter, and the founder and publisher of Golf World magazine, would write in 1938, “John Hemmer is the best newspaper photographer in America, and has been for a number of years. He has the rare combination of being a great artist with the camera, a fine judge of news values in what the editors of the tabloids call the ‘pix,’ and he can write captions with any headline scribe and hold his own.”

Why Hemmer decided to curtail his work in Pinehurst and join the New York Daily News prior to World War II is something of a mystery. Hemmer adored  Pinehurst and had become a fixture in the community. With the Great Depression not yet in America’s rear view mirror, a slowdown in business at the resort may have been a factor. Maybe he missed the bustle of the big city, or perhaps the Daily News offered financial terms Hemmer couldn’t refuse. In any event, he kept a foothold in Pinehurst, visiting often and taking an occasional assignment. He also retained ownership of the Hemmer Photo Shop, placing talented 34-year-old Emerson Humphrey in charge of operations.

Whatever his reasons, Hemmer’s return to New York made for the most exciting period of his career. Once World War II began in earnest, he was frequently aloft, miles out over the Atlantic, in the Daily News’ single-engine airplane, snapping photographs of ships burning, listing or sinking from the deadly effects of U-boat torpedoes. The newspaper, Hemmer mused, “never sent us out unless the weather was terrible.”

In his efforts to obtain front page-worthy  photos, Hemmer sometimes went too far. He often encouraged the pilot of the Daily News’ craft to repeatedly circle a wrecked ship for “just one more shot.” Invariably running low on fuel, on one occasion the pilot was forced to ditch the plane in the ocean. Photographer and pilot were safely rescued, and Hemmer somehow managed to keep his speed-graphic camera and plates dry.  Pushing the envelope brought Hemmer and the Daily News trouble when the paper published a 1941 aerial photograph of a war-damaged British battleship limping into New York’s harbor, raising the ire of an incensed secretary of the Navy, who felt wartime censorship regulations had been violated.

Sometimes his risk-taking resulted in memorable images of the war. His aerial shot of the British vessel King George V’s, arrival (with British ambassador to the United States Lord Halifax aboard) in the Chesapeake Bay won Hemmer the “Best Photographic Award” of 1941. Wendell Willkie, the recently defeated Republican candidate for president, presented the award.

Missing “sand in his shoes,” Hemmer returned to the tranquility of Pinehurst in 1944, residing full-time at Cherokee Cottage. Emerson Humphrey moved on, opening a photo shop in Southern Pines, and Hemmer relocated his studio to an outbuilding adjacent to his cottage.

Dividing his time between performing his usual photography work in Pinehurst and new employment with North Carolina’s State Conservation and Development organization in Raleigh, Hemmer became the official photographer for the state. For half of the year, he would blitz North Carolina, “from Manteo to Murphy,” as he put it, taking promotional photos. “We made some enemies along the way,” he would later admit, “because if the weather happened to be bad so that we couldn’t take color pictures in a certain place, we had to move along to the next place anyway.” His award-winning work continued to bring Hemmer into contact with notable personalities. Covering the theatrical production of The Lost Colony on the Outer Banks, Hemmer snapped several photos of the tall, amiable young man playing the role of Sir Walter Raleigh — a little-known actor named Andy Griffith.

His promotional pictures of North Carolina appeared in newspapers and magazines throughout America. Son John Jr., who followed in his father’s footsteps by becoming the photo editor of the Tucson Citizen newspaper, said his father effectively became the state’s ambassador, and that he “lived and breathed North Carolina.”

But golf photography remained the go-to staple of Hemmer’s work. Raleigh News & Observer reporter Joe Holloway said, “The eyes belonging to Johnny Hemmer have focused cameras on more golfers than any eyes in the world.” Golf World’s Harlow turned the camera around on Hemmer, making him the cover boy of a 1951 edition of the magazine.

Throughout the ’50s and ’60s, Hemmer was every bit as much a fixture in Pinehurst as the Putter Boy statue. He made friends with another generation of Pinehurst residents, including Gen. George C. Marshall. Lifetime Pinehurst resident Nancy Smith participated in equestrian events in her youth and was a target of the veteran cameraman’s lens, especially at the Sunday gymkhana events held adjacent to the Carolina Hotel. “I think of him with a smile on his face,” recollects Smith.

His outward affability masked pain, both physical and psychic. Wife Anna died in 1960, and Hemmer remained a widower the rest of his life. While in New Jersey, photographing the 1961 transfer of the U.S. Battleship North Carolina from the United States to the state of North Carolina, Hemmer fell off of a raised platform and was laid up for weeks after severely damaging his side, and breaking several bones. In another mishap, he was kicked in the leg and face by a thundering thoroughbred in an effort to rescue a fellow photographer who had meandered onto the track in the midst of a steeplechase race. The accident accentuated the deterioration of Hemmer’s vision, a problem that gradually increased in severity as the ’60s unfolded.

Though slowing in his 70s, Hemmer remained the resort’s go-to photographer. Requiring assistance in his photo shop, he hired a 14-year-old Pinehurst High School schoolboy, Don McKenzie, in 1966 to help out after school. Laboring  in Hemmer’s darkroom, pasting captions onto photos, escorting his mentor to the Southern Pines’ railroad station to arrange for shipment of photos to Northern newspapers, and toting battered equipment to assignments, McKenzie absorbed much about the photography business.

And though young McKenzie had yet to take a picture, he learned about photographic composition by observing his boss taking golf course photos at the Pinehurst resort. “Mr. Hemmer was the only one allowed to drive his car on the courses, and I would go with him to help set up,” McKenzie remembers. “When he took golf course pictures, he usually had something in the foreground, like a tree limb, then a middle ground — usually  the subject of the picture — then something that caught your eye in the background, maybe the clubhouse.”

McKenzie also marveled at the veteran cameraman’s ability to take great pictures with out-of-date equipment. One ancient camera had reached a stage where it was letting unwanted light into the picture frame. Rather than purchase a replacement, McKenzie says, “Mr. Hemmer simply taped over the opening where the light was coming in and the camera worked just fine.” McKenzie’s experience with Hemmer helped inspire him to embark on his own lifelong photographic career in Southern Pines.

Despite the loss of acuity in his sight, Hemmer kept taking pictures throughout the ’60s. But it became a losing battle. Blindness was rapidly approaching. Around the time that the Tufts family sold the resort to the Diamondhead Corporation (1970), Hemmer snapped his final picture, ending a 45-year association with Richard Tufts and Pinehurst, Inc. For a while, Hemmer was able to remain in his Cherokee Lodge home. Longtime Pinehurst resident Bonnie Mosbrook recalls him in dark glasses waving his white cane high over his head to alert approaching motorists that he was intending to walk across a village intersection.

Failing health forced Hemmer into the Sandhills Nursing Center in December 1973. His son arranged for the sale of Cherokee Lodge in March of 1974. Less than two months later, the home was destroyed by fire. His former photography studio was salvaged, though it, too, was eventually razed. Though no longer part of the action in Pinehurst, he was far from forgotten and a stream of tributes flowed his way. When the World Golf Hall of Fame was established in Pinehurst, its photo room was named the “John Hemmer Gallery.” A Hemmer trophy for the year’s best golf picture by a news photographer was also instituted. On his 85th birthday in 1977, the Given Memorial Library’s Tufts Archives arranged a “Hemmer Exhibit” of his photos.

After five years in the nursing home, Hemmer’s funds were exhausted. Friend and legendary fellow North Carolina photographer, Hugh Morton. rushed to his rescue, organizing a fund so that Hemmer could meet his expenses. Among those chipping in were Gov. Terry Sanford, Andy Griffith, and the White House News Photographers.

John Hemmer passed away on October 6, 1981, at age 89 but, housed in the Tufts Archives, 85,000 of his photographs can still see the light of day.  PS

Pinehurst resident Bill Case is PineStraw’s history man. He can be reached at Bill.Case@thompsonhine.com.

East Meets West Down South

The house of a thousand stories chronicles a career abroad

By Deborah Salomon    Photographs by John Gessner

They met in a used furniture store in Columbia, South Carolina. Catherine was looking for a dresser. John was seeking distraction. He was from splashy Miami, “When it was young and empty.” She was from Albemarle — a doctor’s beautiful daughter raised in a gracious Southern home with wraparound porch, shaded by magnolias. Their life, a magic carpet ride through far-away kingdoms, plays out in a brick house on Massachusetts Avenue, attributed to society architect Aymar Embury II and Louis Lachine, an engineer associated with the Highland Pines Inn who, in the 1920s, built 10 spec houses near the  resort hotel.

Now, this one runneth over not with Southern heirlooms but Asiana, Africana and a Marco Polo-worthy trove. John and Catherine Earp display more than a painting here and a table there. As a Ford Motor Company executive in the 1990s John was posted worldwide, primarily in Asia. “What we have collected is more about memories than things,” he says. Still, shipping their massive collection from posting to posting and finally to retirement in Southern Pines boggles the mind.

But with Ford footing the bill, why not?

John was in the Army when he met Catherine. After discharge, he started with Ford in Cincinnati, Ohio, then Kansas City, Missouri, soon moving into the glamorous motor sports division. After two years, company hierarchy tapped him to open a new market, as director for Ford Motor Company in Korea.

“Is there a cookbook for that?” John asked.

No, but you’ll figure it out, the suits replied.

Catherine’s reaction: “Korea . . . where’s that? But I was excited, not apprehensive at all.”

Neither had a passport.

Off they went, first to a fabulous hotel for two months, then to an equally fabulous house overlooking a river, where they lived for two years.

The house needed furniture. Ford provided a $15,000 allowance. Catherine and John were already auction hounds. Oreos were an underground prize but in Korea they found “markets” similar to famous Les Puces (Fleas) in Paris. “The Koreans wanted everything new and modern; they weren’t interested in their grandmothers’ stuff,” Catherine discovered. This younger generation unloaded gems of the simple, practical Korean style — notably a stunning high-rise armoire in the living room, heavy chests meant for blankets and sleeping mats elsewhere. Some pieces, like the living room sofa with a teak frame, were made-to-order with distinctively Korean lines.

Then came Japan and Thailand, more markets, more décor finds.

Western eyes blur Asian styles. The black lacquer cabinet in the dining room is actually a Chinese wedding chest, functioning like an American hope chest where brides stored linen gifts. Catherine points out her many elephant motifs emblematic of Thailand, beginning with 10 carved specimens parading across the living room mantel. Fronting a stretch of small-paned windows, vaguely British along with the coffered ceilings, stands a row of alabaster Buddhas from a Burmese monastery. Exporting them required untangling red tape with government ministries. “It’s a sign of respect to Buddha,” John says. “Having them here is a rare thing.”

But because they lived in several Buddhist countries, “We also have a reverence for him,” Catherine adds.

Bells, bells everywhere — from cow bells to temple bells to elephant bells — some massive, made from iron, stand in the foyer, while others, more delicate, are displayed in a glass-fronted curio case. Catherine has positioned her collection of Japanese dolls throughout the house. These armless, legless painted wooden kokeshi (some with bobble heads) look like precious bowling pins, too tall and heavy for cuddling. But the most fanciful objet d’art is a miniature “spirit house” resting on a fern stand in the dining room. Like birdhouses, these carved structures with spirals and wings erupting from walls and roof are placed outside the home, to welcome beneficial spirits.  “Our real house in Thailand looked just like that,” Catherine says.

Their real house in Southern Pines has a circular floorplan; a tour begun in the large foyer tracks through the living room, dining room, kitchen, two dens/offices and back to the foyer without retracing a step. The original room designation remains a mystery. Catherine believes the two offices off the foyer might have been bedrooms with a bathroom, perhaps used as overflow accommodations by the Highland Inn. Outside, a terraced garden, fountain, pond and trellis covered with Confederate jasmine speak more North Carolina than South Korea.

The second floor, with lower ceilings and fewer moldings, suggests the house was planned for entertaining, with architectural details concentrated downstairs. Here, Catherine appreciates having enough wall space to display their art collection, including several waterscapes, some painted on lacquer, from Korea, where commercial fishing flourishes.

The kitchen had been enlarged and renovated by a previous owner who added a vaulted ceiling paneled in pickled wood — more Western than Eastern. However, musky olive green walls, a black enamel farm sink and sculpturesque gas cooktop mounted on the island impart an Asian flavor — except for statuettes of saints, brought from Central America, looking down from atop a cabinet.

Beyond the kitchen is a practical feature rarely seen in either classic or contemporary residences. A door opens into a hallway to the laundry, garage and stairs to the former maid’s quarters, now a private guest suite with heart pine floors, dormers, built-in drawers and claw-foot bathtub, all accessible without entering the house itself.

If Catherine loved Asia, South Africa left her positively ecstatic, perhaps because they lived on a predator-free game preserve where gentle kudus ate out of her hand, over a backyard fence. “The animals! You see these wonderful animals everywhere!” she says. Art and artifacts throughout the house, including zebra wallpaper in an upstairs bathroom, memorialize this experience.

“Africa changes you,” imprinting not just your house, but your soul, John says. Catherine felt closer to the earth from having lived there. “It’s just magical — both the animals and the people.”

John and Catherine enjoyed a lifestyle reminiscent of British colonials learning folkways from servants and drivers — not all positive. “Africa made me look at poverty differently,” Catherine says. “Our housekeeper taught us never to waste food, not a scrap.”

“Yet the people fought through poverty. They didn’t act poor. They were industrious,” John observes.

In 2013 the Earps (yes, he’s related to Wyatt, distantly) chose Southern Pines — and this house — for their retirement because Catherine’s sister lives down the street. Reason enough, without the existential link. For a decade or more the sturdy brick Weymouth residence was known as the H.H. Pethick house. Henry Pethick served as U.S. vice-consul in Saigon, in 1919. He then became a Standard Oil executive in China, returning only when Japan began bombing Canton, according to a Sept. 1937 edition of The Pilot. Mrs. Pethick had come back a year earlier, undoubtedly with household souvenirs. When the Pethicks sold the house in May 1945, a front page story described it as “one of the most attractive and elaborate residences in Southern Pines.”

No mention, however, of serene ghosts floating about in fine silk garments, waiting patiently for their ship, piloted by the Earps, to sail home.   PS

A Highland Fling

The rich legacy of the Scots

By Haley Ray

Even with directions, it’s easy to miss the graveyard deep down a small, unmarked Carthage dirt road. The worn stones are quiet. The only sounds are the earth beneath your feet and the air in the pines above. The Old Scotch Graveyard is worth the trip. It’s a glimpse into Moore County’s past; a snippet of the people that lived here hundreds of years ago and the world they helped shape.

Here lies Alexander McCaskill

Born on Isle of Skye Scotland

Village of Dunvegan

1760

Brother of Angus

Died March 18, 1840, Richmond County

The grave of Alexander’s brother, Angus, lies right next to his own. Not all the stones are readable; some are crumbling, others have fallen over, some plots are unmarked. The gravestones that are discernable usually provide the Scottish village of the man or woman’s origin. Bill Caudill, director of the Scottish Heritage Center at St. Andrews University, says it was a cultural custom commonly practiced by the early migrant Scots in America.

“This identity is very strong here,” says Caudill. “How many ethnic groups do you know that place on their tombstone where they came from and when they came from there? That’s telling you that these people had a sense of belonging. They were here, and they made a new livelihood for themselves, but they always belonged somewhere else. That’s the sense these people had of who they were, and that they still belonged in Scotland.”

Moore County had a large number of those early Scottish immigrants, most hailing from the Highlands of northern Scotland, and dubbed Highlanders (as opposed to the Lowland Scots of southern cities like Edinburgh). Drive through the village of Pinehurst and plenty of Scottish surnames adorn street signs: McKenzie, McDonald, McCaskill, Blue, Shaw, Ferguson, Caddell. While heavily concentrated in the small boundaries of Pinehurst proper, similar road names are scattered across the Sandhills as a tribute to the old, powerful families.

“There’s a lot of subliminal things, a huge amount of subliminal things that nobody would know if it wasn’t really pointed out for you,” says Caudill. “When I say that, I’m talking about historic sites, old family cemeteries, street names.”

The Scots presence extends deeper than Scottish flags on front porches, a Lion Rampant on a license plate or a few family names on street signs. The depth of the influence is framed by the fact that the North Carolina Scottish settlement was the largest Highland settlement in North America until the latter quarter of the 19th century.

The popular, more romanticized version of this great migration tells of shiploads of rebel-hearted Scots washing up on the shores of Wilmington in the 1740s and spreading throughout North Carolina, opting to settle in the American colonies rather than face persecution by the English after the failed Jacobite rebellion in their homeland. Having defied their king, Highlanders had no option but to flee — North Carolina or bust.

The shiploads of Scottish immigrants who flooded into the Wilmington port followed the Cape Fear River deeper into the state, and into the Sandhills. The motivations behind the large-scale emigration are often misrepresented or misunderstood. The dramatic version of events is referred to in history books as the “Theory of Exile.” Scholars mused that the Brits had a master scheme to exile unworthy residents to the colonies after Prince Charles Stewart failed to reclaim the English throne with Scottish — mostly Highland — support.

But, their great escape from the glens and moors of the Highlands had less to do with vengeful persecution than economic changes and a growing population. Although the aftermath of the Battle of Culloden — the deciding clash between the English and the Jacobites that ended the Scottish rebellion in 1746 — did contribute to the exodus, it doesn’t tell the whole story. Caudill says the exile theory can be credited to the writings of one man, William Henry Foote, a minister who wrote about the history of North Carolina from a Presbyterian perspective. Researchers and historians who dug deeper into the records found that the story of the British transporting large numbers of people to work in the colonies was largely inaccurate.

“It didn’t happen. Simply did not happen,” says Caudill. “First off, the people that were transported were taken to prison after Culloden by the government forces. Most of them, that were not paroled, were taken to places like the West Indies and Barbados. Colonies like that. Because of our trade routes, some of those people perhaps may have ended up here. But most of them, no.”

The dismantling of the exile theory begs the question of why, then, did so many Scots leave their beloved country? Moore County native Douglas Kelly also tackles the question of the Theory of Exile in his book Carolina Scots: An Historical and Genealogical Study of Over 100 Years of Emigration. Both sides of Kelly’s family descended from the Highlander immigrants in North Carolina, and he took an interest in his family history at a young age. He explains that before the Battle of Culloden, the clan system was the operating hierarchy in the Highlands of Scotland. Lowland culture more closely resembled that of Britain, although it retained distinctly Scottish characteristics.

The Scottish defeat at Culloden Moor helped dismantle the traditional clan system, but social and economic changes drove the breakdown, and thus migration out of Scotland. Before the Jacobite Rebellion, clan chiefs were the supreme commanders and owners of the land. Below them were the tacksmen, who were leased “tacks” of land from the chief to sublet to farmers on a year-to-year basis. Kelly says the tacksmen were the wealthy middle class, often relatives of the chief. Peasants and poor farmers, also called crofters, made up the lowest level. Tacksmen were paid a fee from the chiefs for managing the land and to ensure the farmers had the tools they needed to tend it.

“Well before Culloden, as early as the 1740s, there was coming pressure on the upper middle class, on the tacksmen,” he says. “Some of the chiefs and lords were getting advice that they were costing too much. It wasn’t religious persecution.”

Shutting out the tacksmen to save money was discussed in the 1730s, but never actually happened, Kelly says. Still, they knew their position was in jeopardy. Following the Scottish defeat at Culloden, the English enforced the 1746 Act of Proscription, which disarmed the Highlanders and instituted punishment for the wearing of traditional Highland dress, including kilts. There is no doubt the oppression contributed to the pressure and panic clans felt, but it is far from the sole reason for the migration. The Theory of Exile fails to include the rising rents, famine years, and increasing population that had citizens, especially tacksmen, scrambling to charter a ship to the Americas.

“The handwriting was on the wall,” says Kelly. “The tacksmen knew their position was threatened in Scotland economically. They decided to emigrate. North Carolina had a Scottish governor, Gabriel Johnston, at that time. He wanted to get Scottish Protestants to settle his colony because North Carolina was far behind South Carolina and Virginia (in population). They were richer. We were considerably underpopulated, so he wanted to get Scots. He contacted some wealthy tacksmen in Argyll, the McNeals and the Clarks, and told them if they would set up a party of emigrants, a colony, he would give them free land in what is now Fayetteville and Moore County.”

So, Scots boarded ships and crossed the sea. The first colony arrived in 1739, seven years before the battle heavily credited for the relocation. Although there are records of Scots arriving before 1739, this colony marked the start of the governor’s Old World recruiting. In addition to free land, Johnston exempted the incoming settlers from taxation for 10 years and allowed them to serve as magistrates and judges. It was a braw deal. Some of Kelly’s family arrived in this settlement, which docked in Wilmington or Brunswick and took smaller boats up the Cape Fear River into Fayetteville.

The Fayetteville colony was a large one, but eventually the settlers were pushed out to make room for Fort Bragg. There are numerous historic sites on the Fort Bragg base that are no longer easily accessible to the curious visitor. You need to make an appointment with Dr. Linda Carnes-McNaughton, archaeologist and curator of the Fort Bragg Cultural Resources Program. Some sites will always remain off-limits for civilians. Carnes-McNaughton estimates that 80 percent of the Fayetteville colony was Scottish, and the historic sites reflect their presence.

“It was predominatly white European settlers moving into the area,” she says. “So when the Scots came, the first things they built were churches. They built schools because they wanted to continue to educate the next generation. That’s why some of the churches are so old, like Barbecue and Longstreet. Building a church and a school went hand-in-hand.”

The Blue family, of the historic Blue Plantation in Aberdeen, also had large tracts of land in Fayetteville before relocating. Carnes-McNaughton says only the Presbyterian churches still stand, some dating back to 1757. She takes many descendants of settler families on tours, and provides access to old documents, as they piece together their family history.

That Scottish sense of self was strong enough to shape the culture and attitudes of the Sandhills in a way that lingers today. Southern Pines resident Jane McPhaul is a proud descendant of those settlers, and heavily involved with preserving the culture and history of her ancestors. She says that placing a large importance on family, church and education is one legacy they left behind. Kelly, Caudill and McPhaul all believe that the area’s famous Southern hospitality, and a close-knit community, may to some degree be credited to the early Scots.  

“You might more broadly say that this is throughout the South, but there’s a sense of kinship here that is much more akin to what you would find in Scotland of old, as opposed to what you would find in other places,” says Caudill. “Here in Laurinburg, everybody knows who everybody’s family is and how they were related. So there was an extended sense of kinship that sort of likened itself to the clans.”

Kelly, who still has family in the Highlands and has lived in Scotland, grew up in a Presbyterian household, hearing Gaelic, learning to work the fields at the Blue Plantation, and listening to family gossip as a popular form of entertainment — a true Scot tradition. Some of his family from the Isle of Skye came to visit Moore County years ago, which he says really brought the similarities to light. Highlanders broadly define themselves as hospitable to strangers, hardworking and unpretentious — North Carolina traits.

“When they were here, they said the spirit is so much like the Highlands of Scotland. The humor, even the way people walk was similar, so they were amazed,” he says. “This sounds self-serving, but in general there’s a courtesy and kindness. It was always generally non-pretentious.”

Along with the importance of church, family and education, many rituals survive. The Highland Games, in both Laurinburg and Grandfather Mountain, is one popular tradition, attended by Scots and non-Scots alike. Bagpipers play at community events. The Kirkin’ o’ the Tartan, an annual ceremony held in a church to bless the clan tartans, is another. Today, the kirkin’ is continued for descendants to celebrate and honor their national and religious heritage, and it’s a ritual McPhaul habitually takes part in.

“We do the Kirkin’ o’ the Tartan at Brownson Church. We’ve done it at The Village Chapel many times, and many of the churches around here do this,” she says. “We have banners. So you’ll take your tartan banner, and generally the men will walk it down the aisle during the kirkin’. It’s something that’s cherished.”

Many of the original Scottish families remain in the area. One reason may be the family land the settlers likely received from Gov. Johnston. Kelly says that the eldest sons inherited the land and had a strong incentive to remain, keeping the family name in the Sandhills.

Jesse Wimberly, a Highlander descendant and outreach coordinator for the nonprofit Sandhills Area Land Trust, says the unique ecosystem is another reason they remained. Many Scottish immigrants, including Wimberly’s family, made their money by extracting pine, turpentine and tar from the native longleafs for the shipbuilding industry. He says that the flora of the pines wasn’t disturbed by the turpentiners. The diverse environment of the Sandhills also made for good hunting, another tradition they continued from their homeland.

Although the breadth of information available on the original Scottish settlements is seemingly endless, data is still missing. Caudill says there is no exact number on how many Scots arrived on the coast of North Carolina, because ship records are available for just part of two years. Historians can only guess at the number of arrivals, which they place somewhere between 15,000 and 30,000 before the Revolutionary War.

“There’s academics in Scotland who know more about our settlement and community than most history professors at UNC,” says Caudill.

For newcomers to the Sandhills the Scottish influence likely begins and ends with golf, and beloved golf course designer Donald Ross. Less well known is that the Jacobite heroine Flora MacDonald resided in Richmond County in the 1770s with her tacksman husband, Allan. Still revered in song and folktales, MacDonald earned her celebrity by assisting Prince Charles Stewart in escape from the English after the rebellion failed.

Davidson College was founded as a Scottish college in 1837 and two Scots from Fayetteville were the first heads of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill.

Behind the Chick-fil-A on U.S. 15-501 is the grave of Kenneth Black, hanged for housing Flora MacDonald after revolutionaries burned her house to the ground. The MacDonalds, who eventually returned to the Highlands, were loyalists to the crown during the American Revolution, as were many of the Scottish in America.

John MacRae, a Scottish oral poet largely unknown outside of academic circles, resided in Carthage after leaving Scotland in 1774. Caudill has a book of his poetry sitting in his office.

“John MacRae is the only voice of these people in their own language. He wrote poems and songs that were transmitted in the oral tradition that have been collected by folklorists all over the world, wherever there are Gaelic settlements. And they were written in Moore County. And nobody knows about them, except for the scholars,” Caudill says.

McPhaul works to preserve the historic Mill Prong House in Red Springs, and continues the annual family reunion they call the gathering of the clans. She can trace the route her ancestors took up the Cape Fear River. “We honor ancestry, we don’t just know about it,” says McPhaul. “It is a heritage that means a great deal.”

Generations removed, the ties still bind. PS

Haley Ray is a Pinehurst native and University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill graduate, who recently returned from the deserts of Southern California

Poem

The Arborist

The arborist: “This tree is nearly eighty

years old, and bound to fail. Put in when folks

developed Rosemont Street — all up and down

the yards the same — the maples, oaks, and firs.

No wonder she lost this limb.” I almost said

I’m seventy-one myself, with lanky limbs

that take me loping ’round the block three times

A week. I hoped he’d say, “Pas possible!”

(His name’s duBois!); instead he said, “See?

You know exactly what I mean.” Mark laughed.

“So what’s the fastest growing tree?” he asked

duBois. “The sycamore. It grows six feet a year,

and when it’s done, it’s sixty feet, providing shade

like this poor maple.” Poor maple. Such girth

I wouldn’t call it poor, but Mark had feared

the insides rotted out; duBois concurred.

We paid him then to take old maple down

and plant the slender sycamore. We’ll have

to move the chairs elsewhere in the yard,

and get a large umbrella for our shade.

Or else we’ll sit all summer under the

porch roof, coaxing the tree to grow. And I’ll

be eighty-one when sycamore is done,

or else bequeath it to new owners, just

as when I think of our beloved Hannah —

who’s twelve and growing, too — bequeathed by us

to other tenders of emerging things,

those who never knew us — we, the arborists,

who sit where someone sat in nineteen

thirty-eight and watched a little maple grow.

— Paul Lamar