MAGICAL HISTORY TOUR
Magical History Tour
Scavenger Hunt
Photographs by John Gessner & Ted Fitzgerald
How to Play
1. If this scavenger hunt does nothing more than encourage an exploration of the fascinating history of the Sandhills, we’ll consider it a success. You’ll find yourself trekking across the county, though probably not in need of a survival kit — maybe a full tank of gas. Not many of the destinations are one-offs, so may we suggest a bit of pre-planning to avoid a lot of to-ing and fro-ing? It’s the age of GPS, so you’re going to have to work awfully hard to get lost.
2. Note to selfie. We’ll not require you to pose in front of anything specific at these locales. Use your best judgment. Don’t do anything dangerous or illegal. (That’s our official disclaimer.) All we ask is that we can identify you and the place in question. It’s perfectly all right if you want to have your trusty companion take the picture for you. After you’ve documented each stop on the tour upload your photo to our gallery at www.pinestrawmag.com/scavenger. The last chance to submit is midnight Oct. 31.
3. Hail to the victors! If you visit all 14 we’ll salute your accomplishment in PineStraw. Your name will be added to an honor roll that will, undoubtedly, be passed down from generation to generation. Bonfires will be built. Poems will be written. Songs will be sung. There might even be swag. And if you don’t manage them all — or even any of them — but enjoy exploring and learning a little bit along the way, you’ll be a winner in our book.
Thanks for playing!
Bethesda Cemetery
The Old Bethesda Presbyterian Church on Bethesda Road in Aberdeen was founded in 1788 by Highland Scots. The Gothic Revival building, used today mostly for weddings and other special events, was built in 1860 and dedicated in 1862. The congregation, having outgrown Old Bethesda long ago, still meets there once a year in a “homecoming” service on the last Sunday in September. During the Civil War, Sherman’s army camped on the church grounds during its march through North Carolina. The building was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1979. Adjacent to the church is the Bethesda Cemetery, in continual use since the early 1700s. Some of the important historical figures buried there include Aberdeen’s founder, Allison Francis Page (1824-1899), known as the Lumber King, who established the town after buying 14,000 acres of Moore County timberland. The cemetery also contains the tomb of Walter Hines Page (1855-1918), whose journalism career included staff positions at the New York Evening Post and the Atlantic Monthly. He became a partner in Doubleday, Page & Co. publishing a long list of world-class authors, including Rudyard Kipling. During World War I Page was appointed U.S. ambassador to Great Britain by President Woodrow Wilson. Pay your respects.
Our Donald
You can drape your arm around the shoulders of the most prolific golf course architect of the game’s “Golden Age” and grab a sandwich at the same time in the middle of the village of Pinehurst. Raise your hand if you’ve heard all this before: Donald Ross was born in Dornoch, Scotland, in 1872. Encouraged by Harvard astronomy professor Robert W. Willson, he took a job at Oakley Country Club in Massachusetts. In 1900 he was hired by James Walker Tufts to be Pinehurst’s golf professional, where he began his architecture career. Ross is credited with designing over 400 courses. A fine player, he finished eighth in the 1910 British Open and competed in the U.S. Open seven times. His brother Alexander, “Alex,” won the U.S. Open in 1907 at the Philadelphia Cricket Club. The life-sized version of the Ross statue, sculpted by Gretta Bader, is behind the 18th green of his world-renowned No. 2 course, the site of four U.S. Opens with more to come.
Pine Knoll
The majestic Pine Needles Golf Hotel, five stories high with its distinctive Jacobean-Tudor architecture, opened in 1928 and, for an all too brief time, was the “in” place to stay in the Sandhills. The hotel rises behind what was originally the first hole (now the second) of the Donald Ross-designed golf course. The stock market crash of 1929 and the ensuing Great Depression forced it to close. Beginning in early 1942, the Army Air Force Technical Training Command was headquartered there. After World War II the hotel was sold to the Catholic Diocese of North Carolina and reopened in 1948 as the St. Joseph of the Pines Hospital. In 1953 Warren and Peggy Kirk Bell, along with their partners Julius Boros and Frank and Masie Cosgrove, bought the golf course. The old hotel now has 86 independent living apartments owned by St. Joseph of the Pines.
SCC Gardens
There’s something in bloom every month of the year at the Horticultural Gardens at Sandhills Community College. Regardless of the season, the grounds are a cornucopia of statuary art among its flowering trees and plants. Kim, created by Gary Price, is a statue of a boy holding a bird. He also did Circle of Peace, pictured below. Sleep is an imposing head of carved stone in the Japanese Garden. Sara is a girl with a watering can in the Hackley Garden, also by Gary Price. Ciao Bella, by Mike Roig, depicts a Japanese maple. The Dog Ate My Homework, created by Randolph Rose, is a bronze of a girl and a dog on a bench in the Hoad Children’s Garden. Eric Bruton’s Red Oak is in the Conifer Garden. Karen, another piece by Gary Price, is a statue of a girl stepping toward a creek outside the Succulent Garden. And Dragon Tail is a stainless steel tail rising out of the ground with a mobile of the moon and stars dangling from it, on display in the Conifer Garden.
Tufts Archives
The Tufts Archives, housed in the back room of the Given Memorial Library on the Village Green, is at its core Pinehurst’s history museum. The archives has a complete and unparalleled collection of artifacts, documents and images from the time when the village was nothing more than barren land, through its extraordinary rise to become one of America’s premier golf destinations. On display are items from the Tufts silverplate collection and the American Soda Fountain Company, the source of founder James Walker Tufts’ wealth. You can view china that was in use at the Holly Inn in 1895; holiday menus from the Carolina Hotel; hand-colored postcards, posters and other ephemera; a playing card shot-through by Annie Oakley; dozens of the more than 150,000 historic images (many taken by John G. Hemmer); hundreds of original golf course drawings created by Donald Ross himself in addition to pin flags from many of the courses Ross designed; and thousands of cataloged historic documents. The archives holds the world’s largest collection of Ross memorabilia.
Center of Pinehurst
Hidden on a brick path in a garden area adjacent to the Village Green in Pinehurst is a plaque affixed to a large rock near a bronze sculpture of two children on a bench reading. The plaque commemorates the spot where, in June 1895, James Walker Tufts drove a stake into the ground to mark the center of the new community he was going to build on the 5,800 acres of land he was accumulating in parcels at the cost of roughly $1 per acre. Letters from Tufts written just a few weeks later mention the plans for the village drawn from topographical maps by the New York firm of Olmsted, Olmsted & Eliot, so it seems likely that in marking the spot he was following the design of the famed landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, whose vision would be executed by Warren H. Manning, an employee of the firm. Manning would later consult on projects for the Rockefeller family in Westchester, New York, and Newport, Rhode Island. He was a driving force in the formation of the American Society for Landscape Architecture.
Poplar Street Entrance
Near the intersection of Fourth and Poplar streets in Aberdeen, a cement gateway of terra-cotta tile and cement marks the entrance that never was. The “Spanish” structures are all that remain of Montevideo Park, the development envisioned and designed by Harry A. Lewis, J.J. Stroud and W.D. Shannon in the 1920s and ultimately doomed by the stock market crash of 1929 and the ensuing Great Depression. The 530-acre project, written about extensively in a 1927 February edition of The Pilot, was to have a four-story Spanish Colonial-style hotel with a tiled roof and 227 guest rooms, a dining room that could seat 1,000, a sunken garden, tennis and croquet courts, a grill room in the basement that included an artificial ice rink that could double as a dance floor (what could go wrong?), riding stables, a golf course designed by Donald Ross’ right-hand man, Frank Maples, 12 miles of streets, private dwellings, a boat club with access to Aberdeen Lake, and gondolas on Aberdeen Creek.
Aberdeen and Rockfish
Aberdeen is your basic two-caboose town. Both are artifacts of the Aberdeen and Rockfish Railroad. Caboose No. 309 is outside the old Aberdeen train station that houses a museum, while caboose No. 303, for display only, is adjacent to the present day Aberdeen and Rockfish offices, a short line railroad that continues to run freight to Fayetteville. The railroad was built in 1892 by John Blue to get timber and turpentine products to market. In the next 10 years a number of lines were extended and/or abandoned as need be. Passenger service ended in 1949. The Union Station Railroad Museum, open by appointment only, contains artifacts and memorabilia. Built around 1900, the station — listed on the National Register of Historic Places — was designed by T.B. Creel and features Victorian architecture. Caboose No. 309 is renovated and sits on the tracks nearby.
Shaw House
Be honest, you drive by it all the time. Well, it’s time to stop in. The Shaw House is located on its original foundation at the intersection of Morganton Road and what was Pee Dee Road on the edge of Southern Pines. The Pee Dee Road was an ancient Indian trail running south to Cheraw, South Carolina, while Morganton Road provided access to the market town of Fayetteville and the Cape Fear River. Charles C. Shaw, a first-generation Scottish settler, acquired 2,500 acres and built the house around 1820. The date of 1842 on the chimney is thought to have been the year that the front porch and the two attached guest rooms were added. A kitchen was built sometime in the 1920s. One of Charles Shaw’s 12 children, Charles Washington Shaw, inherited the property and became the first mayor of Southern Pines in 1887. The house remained in the Shaw family until it was acquired in 1946 by the newly formed Moore County Historical Association in an effort to ensure its preservation. The house is far more modest than seacoast plantations, its simplicity characteristic of the Scottish families who settled the area. The interior features simple pine furniture, a pair of hand-carved fireplace mantels and early examples of Moore County pottery.
Bellview School
According to a National Park Service registration form dated 1997, the Bellview School, a one-room schoolhouse on the grounds of the Moore County Schools Central Office in Carthage, was in all likelihood one of the 15 Rosenwald schoolhouses built in Moore County between 1918 and 1924. Rosenwald schools, named for the philanthropist Julius Rosenwald, helped fund schools for Black children in the Jim Crow South. Roughly 5,000 Rosenwald schools were built throughout the South in the early 20th century, benefiting over 600,000 students. According to the Park Service form, while the building lacks a number of architectural characteristics common to Rosenwald schools, it is believed to have been the Tory Hill School, a one-teacher schoolhouse built in 1920 east of Robbins. The building was restored and moved to the Moore County Schools Administration grounds in 1974.
Buggy Mural
Painted by Chapel Hill artist Scott Nurkin, the mural in downtown Carthage celebrates the Tyson & Jones Buggy Company. The business, founded in 1850 as a wheelwright shop, was purchased in 1856 by Thomas B. Tyson and Alexander Kelly, the county sheriff. William T. Jones, a freed man, was a talented buggy painter who joined the company in 1857 and quickly became a partner. Born into slavery, Jones was the son of an enslaved woman and her white owner. With the beginning of the Civil War in 1861 the buggy company ceased operation, and Jones was among the many who enlisted in the Confederate Army. He was captured and imprisoned. Using food scraps, Jones began making moonshine for his Union guards. At the end of the war he returned to Carthage substantially wealthier than when he left it. Jones used the money to reinvigorate the buggy company, eventually buying out Kelly. At its height the company employed 100 people and was turning out 3,000 buggies a year. Tyson died in 1893 and Jones in 1910. Tyson’s grandson, Thomas B. Tyson II, ran the business until his death in 1924. Legend has it that Henry Ford visited Carthage, proposing that they use their assembly line to install engines in his new vehicles. The company took a pass. The last buggy was delivered in 1929.
The House in the Horseshoe
Built in 1772 by Philip Alston, the House in the Horseshoe in Glendon was the site of the 1781 battle between British loyalists under the command of David Fanning and patriot militia, called Whigs, headed by Alston. The revolutionaries, camped at the home, were attacked by Fanning’s Tories in retaliation for the grisly murder of Kenneth Black. During the skirmish, Fanning’s forces attempted to set the house on fire by rolling a cart filled with burning straw against it. Alston’s wife, Temperance, emerged with a flag of truce, and her husband was taken prisoner. There was a darker side to Alston. In December 1785 testimony was presented to the state assembly that Alston had murdered one Thomas Taylor. As Taylor had been a Tory and Alston was commanding a corps of militia in the service of the state at the time of Taylor’s death, the committee thought he should not be tried and instead was pardoned by Gov. Richard Caswell. Later, a deep-seated enmity would develop between Alston and George Glascock, a first cousin of George Washington. In 1787 Glascock was murdered, and evidence suggested Alston had ordered an enslaved person, Dave, to commit the crime. Alston was imprisoned for his part in the murder. In 1798, the home was sold to Benjamin Williams, who would become governor of North Carolina from 1799 to 1802 and again in 1807–1808.
Dewberry Cafe
Once you’re ruled the dewberry universe, what worlds remain to be conquered? The dewberry, as we’ve come to learn, is a somewhat larger and sweeter kissin’ cousin of the blackberry. For reasons unknown to us, it seems to thrive in our sandy soil. The Lucretia dewberry was introduced to Moore County in 1892, and by the early 1900s farmers were bringing crates of them into Cameron for auction and then transport north to Philadelphia or New York and west to Chicago or St. Louis. From 1910-20 somewhere in the ballpark of 60,000 to 90,000 crates of dewberries were shipped annually from Cameron, earning it the designation of “Dewberry Capital of the World” — with all the rights and privileges attached thereunto. One of the privileges is using the name on a little café housed in the downstairs of the Old Hardware Vintage Depot on Carthage Street. You’ll find an old-fashioned soda fountain with stools and a vintage (please don’t touch) jukebox loaded with 45s.
Astronaut Mural
Robbins native Capt. Charles E. Brady Jr., M.D. (1951-2006), flew aboard the shuttle Columbia in 1996 on a 16-day science mission. During that flight, he was one of the first operators of the Shuttle Amateur Radio Experiment allowing astronauts to talk with ham radio operators around the world. While with NASA, Brady was chief of space station astronaut training before leaving to return to Navy duty. A graduate of UNC-Chapel Hill and the Duke University medical school, Brady was a sports medicine specialist before joining the Navy in 1986 and becoming a flight surgeon. His assignments as a medical officer included duty aboard the aircraft carrier Ranger and serving as flight surgeon for the Blue Angels. In 1998, he had an asteroid named in his honor, officially called Minor Planet (7691) Brady. The mural in Robbins was painted by Elizabethtown’s Hunt Cole and restored in 2016 by Scott Nurkin.









