In The Spirit

Diff’rent Strokes

A new vodka tonic from Reverie

By Tony Cross

I may have mentioned before how I never really cared for tonic water. Back when my brain stopped developing, I believe. Schweppes, Canada Dry, store brands, no tonic product was pleasing to my taste buds.

Then the market changed. Fever Tree dropped their tonic water, and it was (and still is) damn good. I was more smitten about their ginger beer at the time, but there was no denying their tonic. And then I tried a small batch of tonic syrup from Seattle, called Bradley’s Kina Tonic. In love I was. The syrup was so good! A bit complex with flavors, and unlike any other tonic drink I had ever tasted. So, of course, I had to make my own.

After a few weeks of tinkering with a base recipe, I had made what I thought was a feeble attempt at a tonic syrup. It was bitter, had baking spices, but also that citrus glow. I used lemon and grapefruit, but also added orange in the mix — I totally stole that idea from the Kina Tonic. They incorporate orange oil into their tonic, and it’s just what mine was missing. Now I had this tonic that sort of tasted like you took the Fever Tree and Kina tonics and mixed them together. A bitter marriage, if you will. I took it to market, i.e., the restaurant I bartended in, and we took it out for a test drive. It sold. The syrup was well received, and everyone was happy. That is, until I ran out on a Saturday night, then some people were not so happy.

Fast forward a few years, and my tonic syrup, TONYC, is in the actual marketplace. Local supporters wanted their own, which gave me the idea to batch it up and see if it would sell in stores. Within six months, we were on the shelf in Southern Seasons and represented by a wine distribution company. This was fantastic, but I was just starting out with our kegged cocktails, and what I really wanted to do was gin and tonic on draught.

I remember the sadness I felt as the first sip of my draught gin and tonic hit my palate four years ago. Man, oh man. It was bad. Over-carbonated, metallic and bitter to the nines, that G&T is a prime example of how you can’t just “scale up” a cocktail and put it in a keg. Doesn’t work that way. If it did, Reverie Cocktails would have a massive portfolio of draught cocktails right now. It took me a year before I debuted our Strawberry-Lavender Gin and TONYC; semi-sweet, fragrant, and a touch of bitterness. That cocktail has been our spring and summer flagship ever since. We love that cocktail.

At the end of last year, I got it in my head to try again and make a gin and tonic, but without the supporting cast of other ingredients. Just a light, crisp and bitter tonic cocktail that enthusiasts couldn’t pick apart. For a good month or so I thought about the way I wanted to tackle this drink and decided to do a vodka tonic. Crazy (to me), considering I never drink them. I ended up approaching this cocktail the same way I did with our tonic syrup years back: Make it for tonic and non-tonic lovers. Kind of a silly juxtaposition, but it worked when I made the tonic syrup back when I was behind the stick — I had converted non-tonic fans, and had regular patrons give their nod of approval.

I’m thrilled to report that our vodka-tonic is yum. Biased? Of course, but do you really think I’m going to try to plug a sub-par drink? I am definitely not smart (I found out that “spinach” doesn’t have two “n’s” in my early 30s), but I’m confident enough that the reception will be positive once it’s debuted. So far, I’ve only had a small circle of people try it.

This is what we did. We kept it simple. Good quality (and tasting) water, our TONYC syrup, and clarified orange juice. Wait. What? That’s right. I realized one day while walking my pup that I needed to incorporate oranges into the equation somehow. Whenever making a tonic drink from scratch with our syrup, the flavors pop when you express oils from an orange peel over the drink; I had to do the same when mixing it on draught. Luckily for me, my first instinct was correct, and that is never, ever the case when trying to create a carbonated drink in keg form.

You see, I got myself a centrifuge from ol’ St. Nick, and it made this whole orange thing possible. Running fresh orange juice through my centrifuge allows me to clarify the orange juice. In a nutshell, that means the juice has the solids taken out of it, allowing for a clear juice. This, in turn, means it won’t separate in the keg. It will be shelf-stable (once mixed as a cordial) and better yet, it will allow for maximum carbonation.

I’ll stop right there with the nerd talk. Point being, clarified orange juice for the win! It brought the cocktail together, the way bitters can. It’s light, crisp, bitter, and slightly rounded from the citrus. I made the first correct batch back in January and let it sit for a month, just to make sure that there weren’t any nuances to the drink that soured or fell flat. I taste-tested it while watching the Deontay Wilder/Tyson Fury fight, and it’s spot-on. And, for some strange reason, so is my memory. I guess that’s a good thing, considering I had more than two, but fewer than seven.

I chose to pair the tonic water with vodka instead of gin so that it could shine. But don’t get it twisted; it’ll do the trick with gin or rum, too. We hope to have our vodka tonic available in the myriad businesses that support us. Oh, and we’ll have those things called growlers available for delivery, too. See you soon.  PS

Tony Cross is a bartender (well, ex-bartender) who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.

In The Spirit

America’s Spirit

Bourbontown, U.S.A.

By Tony Cross

In past issues, I’ve mentioned how my first encounters with almost every spirit were terrible impressions: everything from Jose Cuervo to Aristocrat gin. Let me fill you in about my first dance with whiskey.

I was with a friend at the lake on a beautiful day in June. We were fishing and having a few beers while music was blasting from a little speaker. My friend brought some snacks with him that were in his book bag. One of those snacks was a bottle of Jack. He grabbed the bottle, unscrewed the top, and took a swig.

My turn. Acting like I was a seasoned vet, I snapped my head back, raising the bottle vertically to the sun, and took a decent-sized “swaller.” I screwed the cap back on, sat the bottle on the grass, and grinned. I couldn’t breathe. As my buddy was rambling on about something, I just nodded my head, and stood there as that you’re-about-to-throw-up saliva secreted from the glands in my mouth. Thirty seconds later, I dizzily walked away from our poles toward the woods, fell to my knees, and yakked. Man, last summer was crazy. Joking.

But, I’m still not fond of Jack Daniels. What I am a fan of is other types of whiskey (I see you, rye). Canadian whiskey was my puppy love stage, and bourbon whiskey was my first full-fledged relationship. Even though that sentence makes me sound like a full-fledged alcoholic, I am not (I see you, Mom). My first days of bartending were during the bourbon boom, if you will. And even though we have strict ABC laws in North Carolina, we were able to get great bottles on a regular basis. These days that is certainly not the case. Most ABC hubs have to have an auction-style drawing to see which bar or restaurant gets that one (yes, one) bottle of higher-end whiskey. I wish I were joking.

One of those bottles is Blanton’s bourbon. It’s a pity, too; Blanton’s is one of my favorite whiskies. Blanton’s was so popular last decade that their distillery, Buffalo Trace, put out a press release stating that demand was higher than their supply. Unfortunately, it still seems to be. Either that, or North Carolina is not allocated many bottles at all, compared to when I could order from my bar. I could wax poetic on how lovely Blanton’s is, and why I would marry her, but instead I’m going to share some facts about bourbon. However, if you ever see a bottle of Blanton’s anywhere, buy it. Even if you’re not a whiskey fan, I guarantee that you will have someone over one day, and when they find out you have a bottle, they just might faint.

Before I drop knowledge, please note that some of my info comes from whiskey sommelier Heather Greene. I purchased her book years back, Whisk(e)y Distilled — A Populist Guide to the Water of Life. I highly recommend it. I know that there are hundreds of books on whiskey, but Heather’s is as easy to read as it is informative.

• Bourbon is an American spirit.

• Bourbon can be distilled anywhere in America. Contrary to belief, it does not have to be produced in Kentucky.

• With that being said, Kentucky is the birthplace of bourbon. They craft 95 percent of the world’s bourbon.

• Kentucky has the perfect climate for bourbon: ideal soil for growing corn, iron-free water, access to rivers for transportation (when distillers first began making bourbon in the early 1800s), a multitude of trees for making casks, and hot summers/cold winters, which allow the casks to expand and contract.

• Bourbon can be called bourbon only if the mash bill is at least 51 percent corn. The other 49 percent can be any other grain. Bourbon can also be made from 100 percent corn.

• Bourbon must be aged in charred new oak. Time is not an issue; even if it’s only for 10 minutes, as long as it’s in the barrel, it’s bourbon.

• Bourbon must be distilled at no higher than 160 proof (80 percent ABV).

• Bourbon must be put into the barrel at no higher than 125 proof (62.5 percent ABV).

• Bourbon must be bottled at a minimum of 80 proof (40 percent ABV).

• As of 2018, Kentucky had 68 distilleries. That’s a 250 percent increase from the decade prior. There are 32 counties with at least one distillery, compared to only eight in 2009.

• “Kentucky is on pace for record growth (this year) — more than 24,000 people will owe their paychecks to the distilling industry for a total payroll of $1.2 billion annually and $10 billion in economic output.” (kybourbon.com)

I enjoy my Blanton’s neat, sometimes with a flick of water. If you’re looking for a recipe, here you go:

2 ounces of your favorite bourbon in a rocks glass. Ice or water optional.

Sláinte, ya’ll.  PS

Tony Cross is a bartender (well, ex-bartender) who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.

In the Spirit

Rum Discovery

Straight up sugar cane

By Tony Cross

In the spring of 2018, I was able to get into the five-year anniversary party at the mezcal bar Gallo Pelon in Raleigh. It was a fun night shared with close friends at one of my favorite bars. What made the evening even more special was my introduction to Oaxacan Agricole rum.

Near the end of every year, I place my order online for different spirits that aren’t available through our state’s ABC system (which would be many). It’s basically my Christmas present to myself. Copious amounts. It never dawned on me to search for rums from the Oaxacan region until that night. So I did, and grabbed a bottle from Haiti while I was at it. I drank both bottles bone-dry, and couldn’t remember my name or how to do times-tables for three days.

I’m lying. I was the first kid in my third-grade class to remember their multiplication tables; that will never fade from my memory.

Paranubes Oaxacan Agricole Rum

“Made in the northern highlands of Oaxaca, where a sparsely inhabited sub-tropical climate produces some of the best sugar cane on Earth. Third-generation distiller Jose Luis Carrera works with several local varieties of cane grown organically and minimally processed during distillation, using only the fresh, lightly pressed cane juice.”

That’s the first thing I read about Paranubes rum. The next thing I noticed is the whopping 54 percent alcohol by volume. Yeah, I had to give this one a go. When it arrived (along with the other types of spirits I purchased), it was the first bottle I opened. On the nose, I could definitely smell sugar cane as soon as I popped the cork. But once in the glass, there was a peppery smell to it that I couldn’t quite nail down.

The next day, my buddy Carter gave it a go, and before his first sip, he said, “Hmm . . . smells like ketchup.” That’s it! I should’ve gotten that; I eat ketchup on almost everything. We both agreed it was a beautiful rum, from the nose, to the back of the palate. Just straight-up sugar cane. No additives. I read on their website that Jose Luis Carrera is able to produce 85 liters a day — the bottle is one liter. He could distill more for a faster production time, but doesn’t want to compromise the balance of his rum. Talk about quality.

The first drink I made with this was the classic Ti’ Punch: just a touch of organic cane sugar, lime, and Paranubes rum made my holiday week a little less stressful. I’ll give a recipe below.

Clairin Sajous Haitian Rhum Agricole

What struck my curiosity with this bottle were two things: One, it’s only been on the market for a couple of years; and two, I’ve never tasted clairin before. It was introduced to me as an eau de vie, similar to white Agricole rhums. So, what exactly is clairin? In a nutshell, it’s a distilled spirit made from sugar cane juice that is produced in Haiti. It gets its name (kleren in Haitian Creole) from its clear color. This clairin comes from an independent distillery that sits in the northern high-altitude village of Saint Michel de L’Attalaye and is run by Michel Sajous.

Just like the distillery of Paranubes, the Sajous Clairin is organically cultivated. Sajous uses the cristalline variety of sugar cane. This type of sugar cane doesn’t yield as much juice when pressed compared to larger production rum companies, but the juice that it does hold has a ton of character. In fact, this type of cane comes from small villages that use machinery without electricity. The sugar cane is also cut by hand and transported by ox carts or donkeys to the distilleries.

Wild beasts and sugar cane. That’s it, folks. It smells stronger than it tastes: grassy, slightly fruity, and very clean. Don’t let the 107 proof on the label scare you — indeed, this is high-octane, but there is so much flavor to decipher, and the clean finish makes this a new staple in my bar. I’m ordering three bottles next time. I recommend the Clairin Sajous definitely in a daiquiri, or on the rocks.

Are you a fan of rum? I feel like there are two groups: Those that like common, molasses-based rum (Molasses is made by boiling sugar cane juice, and then skimming off the top while it’s boiling. After this process is repeated many times, the end result is a thick and sweet liquid.) and those who like Agricole rhums that are made from sugar cane juice. I say that the first group likes “common rum” because that rum is everywhere and is always sweeter. Agricole rum can be more effluvious or funky, and that’s the rum I prefer.

Ti’ Punch

1 teaspoon organic cane sugar

1 fat lime wedge (not that half-moon, sliver-of-a-lime nonsense)

2 ounces rhum agricole (I use Paranubes)

Place sugar and lime into a rocks glass. Gently muddle lime into the sugar. Release the oils of the lime into the juice without pulverizing it. Add rum and ice. Give it a quick stir. Take your time and enjoy. PS

Tony Cross is a bartender (well, ex-bartender) who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.

In the Spirit

Oleo Saccharum

Three ways to create a simple base for your cocktails

By Tony Cross

Over the years, I’ve experimented with many ingredients, recipes and gadgets — all aimed at making my job easier. I mean, c’mon, my business is built on the premise of pulling a handle to get the finished product. You can’t get much lazier than that. Some of these experiments have been disastrous, but from time to time I’ll find a winner. In this case, the winner is oleo saccharum and a few ways to make it.

“A few ways to make what?” Oleo saccharum. It has the same number of syllables as REO Speedwagon, but is waaay better. Trust me. Latin for “oil-sugar,” this combination is the base for most punches and certain cordials/cocktails. (My very first article in PineStraw, circa 2015, touched on the subject briefly.) It’s a very simple process of mixing certain citrus peels — grapefruit, lemon or lime — with sugar. After some time, the sugar draws out oils from whichever citrus you used. Science! And this is coming from someone who failed high school chemistry. Let’s go over several ways to achieve this.

If you’re a beginner:

Combine the peels of one grapefruit and 250 grams of baker’s sugar (or plain granulated sugar) in a bowl. Use a muddler (or, if you don’t have one, a wooden spoon) and press the peels into the sugar for about 30 seconds. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it stand about four hours, or even overnight. When you return to the bowl, you’ll see that what was sugar is now a syrup mixed with peels: oleo saccharum.

Now, you can do a couple of things. Add the oil-sugar to a pot with 1 cup of fresh squeezed (and filtered) grapefruit juice — it might help to add the juice to the bowl after trying to get all of the oleo saccharum into the pot. Once it’s all together, stir on medium heat for a couple of minutes. Strain out grapefruit peels and refrigerate after it cools. Or, you can skip the juice and simply strain out the grapefruit peels and refrigerate (if there’s undissolved sugar, muddle your heart out). You can mix this basic syrup, in sparkling water for a fresh non-alcoholic cooler, or you can whip up a quick little riff on the classic Champagne cocktail:

4 ounces chilled Champagne (or other dry sparkling wine)

1/4 ounce grapefruit oleo

2 dashes grapefruit bitters (or Angostura, if you don’t have any)

Add oleo and bitters in a flute glass, top with Champagne. 

If you’re a seasoned vet with a vacuum sealer:

Combine the same specs from above, but this time place in a food processor. Blend until all of the grapefruit peels are completely obliterated. Place the mix in a vacuum seal bag and use the vac-seal machine to suck out all of the air from the bag. Place it in the kitchen and come back in two hours, or put it in the freezer if you’d like to use it at another time.

If you’re a chemistry cowboy:

Bring out the sous-vide machine. Meaning “under vacuum,” this style of cooking has been very popular for years now, but I like to use it when making certain syrups, including oleo saccharums. I use the Anova Culinary model, but I’m sure there are a few others on the market that will do the trick. Ditch the food processor and combine the peels and sugar into the vacuum seal bag, and seal. Oh, and by the way, if you’re not a fan of grapefruit (who are you?), you can most certainly substitute lemons or limes. I recommend around 35 grams of lemon peels or 50 grams of lime. Grab your sealed bag and place it in a large bath of water. Hook up your sous-vide machine and set temperature to 130 degrees Fahrenheit, and the timer to 45 minutes. When the timer goes off, unplug the machine, and take the bag out of the water. Nothing but net! I mean, oil. Pretty cool.

Tying it all together:

OK, you’ve made your oil-sugar. What now? You can use it as a base for punch, or a simple syrup. I’ll leave you with a riff on a Tom Collins cocktail.

The Cleaner

1 ounce Durham Distillery Conniption Navy Strength Gin

1/2 ounce TOPO Vodka

1/4 ounce St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur

1 ounce grapefruit oleo saccharum cordial (syrup with the grapefruit juice, like in Step 1 from above)

1/2 ounce lemon juice 

Pinch of salt

Sparkling water

Combine all ingredients (sans the sparkling water) in a cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake hard for 10 seconds. Strain into a long (Collins) glass over ice. Top with sparkling water. Use a barspoon to stir together ingredients briefly. Garnish with a swath of a grapefruit peel.  PS

Tony Cross is a bartender (well, ex-bartender) who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.

In the Spirit

That’s What She Said

Small but enjoyable gifts for the holiday season

By Tony Cross

I’m a huge procrastinator this time of the year. Don’t get me wrong, I do pretty well in the gift-giving department. I try to be thoughtful, and probably spend a little beyond my means. But my gifts are dope. At least that’s what my ego says. My family and friends — you’ll have to ask them. Those who are at the bottom of the totem pole on my list of recipients (they actually appear in the “Should I?” column) are the ones that usually end up getting shafted.

Honest to goodness, it’s not because I shrug my shoulders and say, “Oh, well . . . ” but because I’ve always felt kind of silly giving gifts that have zero significance — you know, the stuff you grab in the aisle at any department/grocery store while you’re waiting in line to cash out. So, without further ado, here are a few ideas that I, personally, will be putting into practice this Christmas season, written down so I won’t forget what to buy. Yes, I am that lazy.

InStill Distilling Co. White Rum

I first met Leigh and Eric over the summer when we collaborated at an event in Pinehurst. I was pouring draft mojitos, and they donated their rum. Let’s just say that the keg blew fast, and people were upset that I didn’t bring more. Clayton, North Carolina’s first distillery (legal distillery, that is), is showcasing its rum. There’s a general misconception about rum — most folks think of Captain Morgan or Malibu when the spirit is mentioned. Nonsense. Local, and veteran owned, this white rum is fantastic for daiquiris and my carbonated mojitos. Trust me, I threw back five — I mean, ahem, two — daiquiris made with their rum while blasting the new Tool album back in August.

Why it’s personable: It’s a veteran owned company. OK, I already covered that. But did you know that Eric, who joined the police force after serving in the Army, was fired after seven years by his police chief after she found out that he owned a distillery? Google it. Here’s a daiquiri recipe that you’re going to jot down on a little gift tag and tie around the bottle.

Daiquiri

2 ounces InStill rum

3/4 ounce fresh lime juice

Slightly less than 1/2 ounce rich cane sugar syrup

Smidgen of salt

Combine all ingredients into shaker, add ice, and shake hard for 10 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail coupe. No garnish.

Sutler’s Spirit Co. Gin

I’ve written a few times in the past about my man Scot Sanborn and his incredibly versatile gin. It’s so damn good that I’m telling you about it again. I do a lot of events and meet new people on a weekly basis. I get asked a lot about my opinion on certain spirits, and I’m kind of surprised that I’m still turning folks on to Sutler’s. It’s not juniper-forward like most gins that you probably drank out of your parents’ liquor cabinet; it’s got a lot going on, with coriander, orange and lemon peel, and yes, a little bit of juniper. That means that even if the friend or family member that you have in mind isn’t too keen on gin, this is the bottle that can change their mind.

Why it’s personable: It’s Winston-Salem’s first legal distillery, and Sutler’s probably has the sexiest packaging in the game. I guarantee that a majority of people wouldn’t give a flip even if they hated gin because the bottle looks that good.

Reverie Cocktails Bottle/Growler Delivery

Did you really think that I was going to skip over my baby girl? Actually, Reverie is my little brother’s baby girl. If you’re as lazy as I am, you might enjoy our pre-bottled Old Fashioneds or Sazeracs. Just pour over ice and enjoy. No, you don’t have to stir it with ice; we’ve already factored that in. Just pour and enjoy. Or pretend that you made it and wow your family and friends.

If you’d like something more bubbly and refreshing, then definitely check out our carbonated growlers. Drink options change weekly, but the quality remains the same (or so we’d like to think). We deliver and bring food, too. We kind of have to — it’s the law. Pre-bottled cocktails yield nine drinks, and our growlers can pour up to 10.

Why it’s personable: Because I just told you that Reverie is my niece, and we deliver to your door. C’mon.  PS

Tony Cross is a bartender (well, ex-bartender) who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.

In the Spirit

Divide and Conquer

There’s a place for a keg

By Tony Cross

It’s common knowledge to those close to me: I don’t bartend much these days. Yes, that’s right — you’ve been duped. I’ve been making this up as I go along. Kidding. Well, kind of. It is true that you will not find me behind any bar, besides the one in my apartment. And by “the one in my apartment” I mean my kitchen.

I’m still very passionate about cocktails and everything that goes in them, it’s just that I’ve been completely devoured by my business. Oh, and if you haven’t heard, we batch cocktails for you to drink on draft. And while there are some in the cocktail community that are opposed to my business plan, I’d like to outline what I’ve learned in the past three years, and why I respectfully disagree.

I got the idea to chime in on this because of an Instagram post I read the other day from a popular online magazine. The post went something like this: “Draft cocktails have divided the cocktail world. With a mix of avid supporters and vocal detractors, the practice of putting cocktails on tap is controversial as some ask: Are draft cocktails taking the craft out of craft cocktails? Sound off below.”

As I scrolled through the comments, I was a little shocked (and delighted) to see more positive than negative feedback on draft cocktails. Now, the folks that are skeptical, or are just adamantly opposed to this style of drink, might be voicing opinions based on experiences in cocktail lounges. A common theme for naysayers is the fact that draft cocktails take away from the whole experience when you’re in a nice cocktail bar. Indeed, it does. And a few people didn’t like the fact that they’ve been to a quality cocktail bar, only to pay the same price for a draft cocktail as one made from scratch right in front of them. I agree with that as well. And then there were those that just had a crap cocktail that came from a keg. First impressions are lasting, and to those that experienced a bad drink on draft, I get it.

My turn. I don’t think cocktails coming out of a keg are going to be huge in well-established cocktail bars around the world. Draught cocktails do help bars get out a drink when it’s very busy and, sure, there are some that do it exclusively (Yours Sincerely in Brooklyn and Draft Land in Hong Kong), but all other bars are making their drinks in front of you. And I like that.

Where I do see draft cocktails expanding are places where you’re a bartender (maybe one who’s not devoted to making his own) who would like to figure out how to do draft cocktails to help with busy nights. If that’s the case, you’ll need a to do a few things. First, make sure your recipe is tight — it’s one thing when coming up with a new cocktail and learning to get the balance right, but it’s another when you’ve got 250-plus ounces at once. That’s a lot of cocktails (and money) down the drain with each mistake.

Once you have your recipe ready to go and you’re making everything fresh (I hope), you’ve got about a week to sell this keg before it turns. Oh, and make sure you’re shaking the keg every couple of hours to ensure separation of ingredients. Now get to it. But wait. If you don’t know how to make a proper drink to begin with, how in the hell are you going to understand balance? You’re not. And I am not knocking any bartender that doesn’t. I know plenty of great bartenders that can whip my butt serving a ton of customers in a busy dive bar/club/etc. on a busy night.

So, what am I saying? Over the past three years, my business, Reverie Cocktails, has catered to the needs of businesses that want a good drink that’s fast, consistent, and tastes good. You don’t need to sell our kegs in a week’s time (though, there are plenty of our accounts that do); our drinks hold just as long as beer and are made with quality ingredients. You’re probably not going to see our draft handle in any craft cocktail lounge, but you will see it in dive bars, large bars, restaurants, country clubs, breweries, music venues and more. We’re represented in three states (Indiana, North Carolina and Ohio) and will soon land a trial run in a NCAA arena. Fingers crossed.

I totally understand the purists out there. There’s nothing like walking up to a bar and having a skilled bartender whip up a delicious Manhattan on a chilly night. However, Reverie has legs. And while it’s taken some time to really get going, the best is yet to come. There are waaaayyy more Average Joe bars than there are craft cocktail bars in this nation. I like those odds.  PS

Tony Cross is a bartender (well, ex-bartender) who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.

In the Spirit

Bar Balance

Rely on the classics

By Tony Cross

A friend of mine recently made the transition from lifetime server to behind the bar. As a server, he’s probably one of the best that I’ve ever had the pleasure to work with. He’s fast, knowledgeable and friendly, but most importantly, he can work a room. Whether a server has been given multiple tables at once, or it’s an extremely busy night, if he/she can get everyone on their side, the rest of the night is butter.

And that’s what he did. Night in and night out. I’m talking upselling appetizers, better wine, and that extra dessert. This always results in great tips and constant requests from big spenders.

But now that he’s a bartender, the night feels a bit foreign. He wants to do the best job that he can do, and knowing his work ethic, he’ll do just fine. However, when he first made the transition, he started asking me how to do infusions, and other drinks that, for novices, are a bit over the top. My friend — we’ll call him “Danny” — is not a big drinker; what he does drink is quite simple, e.g., domestic beer, wine and the occasional cocktail.

My response to Danny’s questions might have come off a bit unsympathetic, but sincere, and I hope he takes it to heart. “Learn the classics first,” I told him. For someone that’s never experimented with cocktails in the workplace or at home, this is pretty standard advice. There’s no point in making a fat-washed bourbon for a Manhattan if you don’t understand the Manhattan to begin with. I don’t care how good your infusion is, if your specs are off, your cocktail will be, too. Not to mention the other things to be mindful about while bartending: engaging customers while making copious drinks; being able to juggle making different cocktails at once while making eye contact with your guests; greeting newly seated bar guests, taking orders, and creating an atmosphere. Did I mention engaging? If you’re new to making drinks, you most definitely do not need six-plus ingredient drinks on your menu. You will set yourself up for failure one way or another. Either your drinks or your guests will suffer. Maybe both.

I have another friend who is a retired bartender. And by “retired,” I mean he was behind the stick for a decade or so before he decided to move on to another profession outside of the hospitality business. We’ll call him “Adam.” Even though Adam was a bartender by trade for many years, he couldn’t make many drinks that I would deem drink-worthy. God, that sounds pretentious. But if you knew Adam, you’d know what I mean.

I worked with Adam for a few years while I was a server. It pained me waiting for my drinks. It wasn’t that Adam was physically slow making drinks; it was just that he was more interested in chatting it up with his bar guests. Many a night, while I was standing there waiting for my three or four cocktails, Adam would be in the middle of mixing them while talking to one of our regulars. Uh-oh. His face read, “Did I or did I not already add that ounce-and-a-half of vodka?” Just to be sure, Adam would go ahead and pour more into the shaker. Like clockwork, I would return in five minutes because my table couldn’t stomach the unbalanced drink. One Wednesday night I came as a customer, sat at the bar with Adam, ordered a beer, and stayed for dinner. That was when I realized why Adam had so many regulars. Even though I ate alone, Adam kept me entertained the whole evening. I had a good time and left with a smile on my face.

I’m mentioning my two friends for a reason. Yes, there’s a moral to the stories. A great bartender is able to cover multiple tasks while looking cool under pressure. I’m certain that Danny is going to learn the ropes quickly — multitasking is his first language — and once he gets his drinks down, he’s going to be amazing. And Adam. Though I’d never say he was a great bartender, he was spot-on in his hospitality. If you’re new to bartending, especially in a restaurant bar, you’ll need balance.

Start with the classics. Have a handful of drinks that you know like the back of your hand, and study up why they work. Lots of great bartenders have used these recipes as backbones for new drinks when they are inspired. Keep your cocktail list simple, but delicious. And if you’re just the imbiber and it’s your first time at this bar or restaurant: order a daiquiri. If it’s no bueno, chances are the rest of the drinks on the list aren’t either.

Or do what I’d do when visiting Adam — just order a beer.  PS

Tony Cross is a bartender who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.

In the Spirit

Lock and Key

A very special birthday gift

By Tony Cross

One of my favorite traits that my best friend, Charles, possesses is his ridiculous knack for always making me laugh with his acutely dry sense of humor. That, and he can dish up killer Mexican food.

Before he was married, we lived together while working at the same restaurant. During our friendship, I developed a fondness for cocktails and used him as a guinea pig. Charles has always been very particular about what he drinks; he would (and still does) shoot straight with me when testing my humble cocktail creations. Over the course of the past seven years, I have never understood his disdain for mescal; how he always holds his liquor better than me (he’s had nine more years experience, mind you); and why he prefers The Black Keys to The White Stripes.

On the flip side of things, Charles has turned me on to a few things himself: Modelo Especials with a back of ice-cold blanco tequila, Mad Season, and close-to-freezing Ketel One vodka with fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice in the morning. When we were roommates, the ritual every year for birthdays and the holidays was the same: a nice bottle of booze. Usually it was high-end tequila or bourbon. However, there was a catch when I was on the receiving end of the gift giving. Every time I looked, my bottle of spirit seemed a little lower. I even made the mistake of asking my girlfriend at the time, “Have you been drinking my tequila?”

Oh, boy. Wrong. She exclaimed, quite matter of factly, “It’s Carter!” (OK, he goes by Carter. Charles is his government name.)

Many birthdays later, I don’t worry quite so much about anyone getting into my booze — unless you count my pup, Daphne, who on paper is extremely smart, but in reality is so, so dumb. When I arrived home one night last month, I could see in the distance, on my kitchen counter, a bottle of liquor that looked very familiar. It was Jefferson’s Reserve bourbon.

I had previously owned a bottle of Jefferson’s, but they have quite the selection, so I almost flew across my kitchen to see which one Carter had gifted me. In all, the distillery currently has 13 different offerings, everything from their flagship Jefferson’s Reserve, to their Jefferson’s Ocean series (barrels of Jefferson’s Reserve that sit, or rock back and forth, rather) on a ship for many months, each voyage crossing the equator four times and stopping at around 30 ports. They even bottle up their own barrel-aged Manhattans.

However, it was one of Jefferson’s Cask Series that ended up on my kitchen counter for my birthday. Actually, it was a week late. Ten-plus years of friendship, he still has a key to my pad and can’t get my birthday right.

There are five different whiskey experiments in the Cask series: Grand Selection Chateau Suduiraut, Sauternes Cask Finish, Grand Selection Chateau Pichon Baron Cask Finish, Groth Cask Finish, and the one now on my counter, the Jefferson’s Pritchard Hill Cabernet Cask Finish. Each cask-finished style starts with either the Jefferson’s Straight Bourbon Whiskey or the Jefferson’s Reserve, and fills up old wine barrels. They usually “hotbox” the barrels for the first few months, and then let them sit for another four.

The hotbox method involves increasing temperatures up to 120 degrees, in turn, bleeding out the wine from the barrels into the whiskey immediately. Afterward, it marinates, balancing the flavors of wine and whiskey. The Pritchard Hill starts with the Reserve whiskey, originally using a 15-year-old bourbon that makes up 50 percent of the mash bill (I’ve read that it’s a slightly younger aged bourbon these days), and then three more bourbons are added (anywhere from 8 to 18 years old). They take this Reserve bourbon whiskey and age it for one year in freshly dumped French oak casks that contained Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon.

The end result is very tasty, indeed. The barrels that bleed into the whiskey add notes of berries, chocolate, espresso, vanilla and clove. It’s not in your face; it’s subtle. Take your time with this whiskey — add an ice cube and let it open up. This isn’t a mixing bourbon, but if you must, just do an Old-Fashioned, or something where the other ingredient(s) will be minimal. Actually, I don’t care. Do what you want, but I’ll leave a recipe for an Old-Fashioned below.

There’s plenty of my newly gifted bourbon left. I have a decent collection of spirits in my kitchen closet and some, I could’ve sworn, used to be more than half full. Carter has had a key to my place for years. Alas, I better enjoy this bourbon while I can.

Old Fashioned

2 ounces Jefferson’s Reserve Pritchard Hill

1/4 ounce rich demerara syrup

1 dash Angostura bitters

3 drops Crude “Big Bear” coffee and cocoa bitters

Orange peel

Combine all ingredients except orange peel in an ice-cold mixing vessel. Add ice and stir until proper temperature and dilution occur. Strain over ice in a large rocks glass. Express oils of an orange peel over the cocktail and add into drink.  PS

Tony Cross is a bartender who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.

In the Spirit

The Bare Necessities

Keeping it simple keeps it delicious

By Tony Cross

Last month I confessed to being behind on a number of books that I had barely started or hadn’t opened at all. One of those books is Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential. Yes, that’s right. It’s blasphemous to say that I adore the man, yet have not read his epic first book. Embarrassing, I know. Anyway, the book is amazing. One of the chapters, “How to Cook Like the Pros,” has Bourdain giving tips to those at home who want to cook well enough to amaze their next dinner party guests. Good stuff. He starts with tools: chef’s knife, other knives, plastic squeeze bottles, pots and pans, etc. He then moves on to ingredients: butter, stock, shallots and more. So, in this episode, I’m going to blatantly rip off Anthony. It’s OK, we share the same first name.

When it comes to making drinks, people always ask me questions like: “What’s your favorite drink to make? Do you really like egg whites in cocktails? What’s a good recipe?” (I get that one a lot.) Or: “How do you make your old-fashioneds?” and “Do you really like mezcal?” I usually respond to the last one with “no” and a grin on my face. One time, a married woman (claiming to be newly separated) actually messaged me on social media late on a Saturday night to find out what my favorite rye is. It’s Rittenhouse, but that’s not all she asked.

The point is, you only need a few tools, and a few ingredients to make a ton of delicious cocktails. And in no particular order, so let’s go.

Angostura Bitters

There are a ton of bitters on the market. They’re everywhere. And by all means, experiment and check them out. We’ve got Crude in Raleigh that makes great bitters, and lots of other companies in the U.S. that do a great job. But I’ve never lost it in my kitchen when I’ve run out of cardamom bitters. It’ll never happen. Angostura is the essential bitters that should always be stocked in your place. Plain and simple. Plus, it’s available everywhere, and it cures hiccups (doused on a lemon wedge). Just saying.

A Good Juicer

A durable, inexpensive, hand-held juicer is all you need when making drinks at home. I’ve talked to people who just “squeeze a little lime juice” into their shaker (I hope) when creating their own gimlets. Amazon has the Chef’n FreshForce model that is only $20, and durable as hell. Even if you’re hosting a 12-person cocktail party, this hand-held juicer is really convenient. Once you get the hang of it, you can juice 10 ounces in no time. Oh, and measure the stuff while you’re at it.

Jigger

Use a jigger that has a few measurements on it. You know, 1/4 , 1/2, 3/4 of an ounce. I prefer the Japanese style, but whatever is easiest for you. Cocktail Kingdom has a lot of fancy plated ones; to each their own. I have the original stainless steel, and they’ve lasted me for years. If you’re not measuring, stop reading here.

Sugar

If you’ve always got a half to a full cup of simple syrup in your fridge that hasn’t gone bad, good for you. You’re an alcoholic. Kidding. The rest of us probably have that “Oh, hell” moment when realizing that we’ve got everything for the drink ready except for said syrup. No worries, it only takes a minute to make, and that’s if you feel like making it. But syrup or no syrup, you should always have a small amount of demerara or cane sugar in the cabinet. It makes all the difference in the classics. Don’t believe me? Make a rich demerara syrup for your next daiquiri and tell me that the sugar doesn’t bring out the flavors in the top of the line rum you used. The color may not be Instagram-worthy, but who cares when you’ve made one of the best drinks in the world.

Vermouth

I can’t believe that almost every bar and restaurant in this town still has vermouth on the shelf. It’s rancid. Don’t be like most bars and restaurants in this town. Refrigerate, dammit. You’re only wasting your own hard-earned dollar and taste buds. Get a white and a red. You don’t need four of each, unless you’re using them before they spoil. Here, here! Dolin Dry for martinis and Carpano Antica for Manhattans. They’re also delicious over ice with a twist, too, ya know.

Spirit

I see a lot of articles online that read something like this: “The 8 Gins You Should Have at Home!” Really? Eight? No thanks. How about two or three? Plymouth for martinis and Beefeater’s for gin and tonics. “Hey, Tony! I can’t imagine how many whiskies you have at home!” I can. Three or four? Maybe? I love rye, so I usually have Old Overholt, Rittenhouse and/or Wild Turkey Rye. Whatever bourbon I can get my hands on that’s halfway decent from our ABC. Oh, and a good bottle of Scotch. Yeah, that’s about it. Aaaaand for the rest:

Agave: If you are really just into margaritas, get a blanco; I particularly enjoy Herradura. If sipping is your thing, grab a nice anejo. A bottle of Del Maguey anything wouldn’t hurt either.

Rum: One white rum and one funky. For me, it’s Cana Brava and Smith & Cross. Actually, I’m lying. I have more. But I’m a rum-whore. Can’t help it. But the former is a good start.

Vodka: This is easily the most debated. Probably because most people who boast about what vodka they love are full of it. Tito’s, you say? Yeah, sure. I don’t care. For me, it’s always a vehicle to a destination. Just don’t let that ride be a Ford Pinto.

Brandy: Rémy Martin. Damn good cognac.   PS

Tony Cross is a bartender who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.

In the Spirit

Summer Well

Catching up and resting up

By Tony Cross

It’s my favorite time of the year. I love hot weather, and hopefully, I’ll be able to get out of town for at least a few days. If that’s the case, you’ll find me on the beach with either drink or book in hand. I enjoy Miller Lites, ice cold and in bulk. And when I’m reading, it’s almost always non-fiction. This summer, however, I hope to catch up on a few cocktail books that I haven’t had time to digest. It seems like every month there are tons of new books available on Amazon dedicated to spirits, cocktails, bars that make them, and the history of all of the above. Here’s a few that I hope to tackle soon.

Cocktail Codex: Fundamentals, Formulas, Evolutions, by Alex Day, Nick Fauchald and David Kaplan

From one of the partners of New York City bar Death & Company, and co-authors of Death & Co: Modern Classic Cocktails (which is, in my opinion, one of the best, if not the best cocktail book ever penned), Cocktail Codex is an in-depth look at six cocktails, and how every cocktail served today is based around them. These “root” cocktails are: the Old-Fashioned, the Martini, the Daiquiri, the Sidecar, the Whiskey Highball, and the Flip.

Each section starts off with the root recipe, and then off it goes! It delves deep into understanding the core of the drink, i.e., all of the ingredients, and why they work. This is very important, because as the chapter continues, it shows other classic-style drinks that are based on the root recipe. All of the crazy drinks that you may find in cocktail bars, books and even from Instagram almost always come from one of these root drinks. Any good bartender will tell you, if you don’t understand the classics (and, just as importantly, the balance), you’re going to have a tough time coming up with your own creations.

Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails, by Shannon Mustipher

This one is hot off the press. I saw Tiki in a Camper English Instagram post in April. He routinely posts on cocktail books that he is sent or purchases. I love all things tiki, so I decided to give it a shot. What a book! Shannon Mustipher’s credits include cocktail consultant, spirits educator and one of the founding members of Women Leading Rum, which, according to her book, is “an organization dedicated to providing education and professional development for industry and trade professionals.”

This is a very thorough, creative and inspiring tiki book. I had a little cocktail class the last weekend in April, and my guests wanted to do a drink with vodka, and one with whiskey. The first cocktail that I saw in this book was the one I ended up using that night. Who says tiki drinks have to be made with rum? The Lorikeet was so good, two of the guests that night admitted it was the best drink they’ve ever had. I wish I could’ve taken credit for the recipe — it’s complex, yet easy to drink and delightful. (Recipe below.)

Anything from the Given Book Shop in Pinehurst.

I met Lisa Richman last spring when she asked me if I’d be interested in doing a science workshop with cocktails as the theme. Of course I would. I didn’t tell her that I failed chemistry in high school until after we made the date official (the ol’ college try had a different outcome). When I showed up for the event, she had stashed away at least 15 cocktail books that were donated to the used bookstore by locals cleaning out their closets. I walked away with a steal — six books that you just can’t get anywhere else, unless you get lucky at the Salvation Army.

This year, the same thing, another successful “Science of Cocktails” class, and another bag of books for me. Lisa is not only efficient at what she does, she’s a huge sweetheart. The Given Outpost took its first shot at hosting a wedding event last fall, and it just happened to be my best friends tying the knot. Lisa made the whole experience easy for them, and for all of their guests. Plus, you guessed it, she had put away a couple of cocktail books and articles for me to sort through and take home. One of my favorites, which sits in my guest bathroom, is Johnny Carson’s Happiness is a Dry Martini. Classic.

Lorikeet

2 ounces rye whiskey (preferably Rittenhouse)

1/2 ounce banana liqueur (preferably Giffard’s Banane du Bresil)

1/4 ounce cinnamon syrup*

1 ounce pineapple juice

3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice

6 dashes Peychaud’s bitters

4 dashes Angostura bitters

Orange twist and pineapple spears, to garnish

Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a Collins glass. Top with pebbled ice, then garnish with an orange twist and 2 pineapple spears.

*Cinnamon syrup: In a pot, combine 4 ounces of water and 8 ounces (by weight) white sugar over medium heat. Stir until sugar dissolves. In a blender, combine syrup and 15 grams of cinnamon sticks. Blend on high until cinnamon sticks are completely broken down. Pour into a small container, let cool and refrigerate overnight. Strain out cinnamon the next day. Will keep for two weeks when refrigerated.   PS

Tony Cross is a bartender who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.