Rum, Anyone?
Three styles to pique your curiosity
By Tony Cross
I love rum. On its own; stirred in Ti’ Punch; shaken ice-cold in a daiquiri; in a box; with a fox.
I love rum. This probably comes as no surprise. Whenever I get a chance to splurge, I’ll order more than a few bottles online — usually brands that I already know. Over the past two years I’ve been on a Clairin kick. You remember Clairin, don’t you? It’s the sugar cane spirit from Haiti that’s high in proof and lovely on the palate. Well, I still have plenty of that left over from last year, so this go-round I decided to grab a few bottles I’m familiar with, and a few that I’m not. Here are two old favorites, and one that’s made just west of an island I grew up on.
Plantation 13 Year Jamaican Rum 2005
I’ve had the Plantation Distillery rums before and, as soon as my most recent order arrived, I grabbed a bottle and made a daiquiri. I thought I had picked their signature blend (which retails at $24.95). My daiquiri was so damn good, I immediately made another. I was floored by how tasty it was. Turns out I had dipped into the 13 year ($64.99) instead. Honest mistake: The packaging is kind of similar, but I should’ve spotted the difference. Not to worry, it was one of the best daiquiris I’ve ever had. It’s great on its own, too. Aged for 12 years in bourbon barrels in Jamaica, it’s then shipped to France to mature for another year in small cognac barrels. It’s dry on the front palate, but then hits you with fruit and a touch of funk on the back end. I noticed that the longer it sat in my glass, the easier it was to pick up notes of banana, vanilla and whatever else I can’t remember. It was delicious.
Cor Cor Okinawan Rum Red Label
I was shocked to see rum from Okinawa available online. I grew up there as a lad and have nothing but fond memories. This was also a staff pick from the website I frequent, so clearly it was a no-brainer to give it a shot. This rum is different. On the nose: dirty vodka martini. Swear to God. On my first sniff, I was like, “Whoa, that smells briny!” The sniffs that followed (I hope I never have to type that again) yielded, “Yeah, that’s a dirty martini.” Weird. On the palate it’s a little saline, light, slighty grassy. Okinawan grassy? I really don’t know. I think I need more time with this one. I’ll probably make a Ti’ Punch with it to see what a touch of sugar and acidity do to it.
El Dorado Special Reserve 21 Year Rum
This bottle was a splurge. It retails for around $100. I’ve had it a few times before and figured it was time to be a big boy and have my own bottle. Before I get into why this rum is so special, I’d like to touch on something I read from one of the website staff members who reviewed it. “While whiskey gets increasingly expensive and certain bottles become harder to find, rum’s vivid and decadent flavors are an easy jump to make for a bourbon or Scotch drinker.” Whiskey prices are ridiculous these days and, honestly, I find a lot of whiskies to be overrated relative to the cost. Maybe it’s because I live in North Carolina, but I sometimes find rum to be my little secret. I know so many people that love to chat “whiskey this, whiskey that,” but when I show them a good rum, their minds are blown. The few times I’ve enjoyed the El Dorado 21 year, it’s been as a nightcap after a lovely dinner. This is a long, slow sipper that’s meant to be enjoyed on its own. Caramel on the nose, with toffee and spices on the palate, and sweet smoke on the finish, this rum from Guyana is elegant. Consider this as a gift for a whiskey connoisseur, and you’re guaranteed to make them a rum fan. PS
Tony Cross is a bartender (well, ex-bartender) who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern Pines.
