In the Spirit

Dissecting a Cocktail

Jeffrey Morgenthaler’s eggnog

By Tony Cross

As a child, I loved it when my mother broke out the eggnog during holiday parties. However, when I reached adulthood, I couldn’t stand more than a cup of the store-bought goop. That all changed a decade ago when I whipped up boozy eggnog from a recipe I found on Portland bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler’s blog. Not only is Morgenthaler’s version silky smooth, but the flavor profile is insane.

There’s no rum or cognac in this one — there is, however, añejo tequila and Amontillado sherry. Say what? I know, I squinted the first time I read that, too. The combination of a dry, nutty sherry and semi-sweet tequila is perfect for this Yuletide cheer. The first weekend that I made this a cocktail special when I was behind the bar, we almost sold out by Saturday lunch. Not only was it popular with our patrons, but our host, who worked the day shift, pleaded with me to give him any leftovers before we closed for Christmas. This is the best eggnog you’ll ever taste.

Eggnog

12 large eggs

450 grams baker’s sugar

15 ounces Amontillado sherry

12 ounces añejo tequila

36 ounces whole milk

24 ounces heavy cream

Fresh nutmeg, for garnish

In a stand mixer on low speed, beat eggs until smooth. Slowly add sugar until incorporated and dissolved. Slowly add sherry, tequila, milk and cream. Refrigerate overnight and serve in small, chilled cups. Dust with fresh nutmeg before serving. Makes approximately one gallon.  PS

Tony Cross owns and operates Reverie Cocktails, a cocktail delivery service that delivers kegged cocktails for businesses to pour on tap — but once a bartender, always a bartender.