DISSECTING A COCKTAIL
The Wandering Path
Story and Photograph by Tony Cross
In the 2022-23 time frame, alcohol sales increased by 1 percent, but the sales of non-alcoholic wine, beer and liquor grew by over 32 percent. “An increasing consumer focus on moderation, health and wellness is having a positive impact on all no-alcohol sub-categories, with growth rates higher than their full-strength equivalents,” says Susie Goldspink, head of no- and low-alcohol insights at IWSR (originally known as International Wine and Spirits Record, though they now deal in beer and ready-to-drink beverages as well).
Indeed, the market is starting to get flooded with all things alcohol-free. My business operates out of a health store and, in the past couple of years, I’ve seen more brands like these than I can count.
A lot of folks, me included, take breaks from alcohol even when it’s not “dry January.” We’d like to have something to drink that makes you feel good without being high or drunk (canned THC cocktails are a whole other story). My problem with most of these RTDs (ready-to-drink) is simple: They don’t taste great; they use buzzwords for sales (e.g., ashwagandha); and they’re pricey. I haven’t had the opportunity to try tons of spirit-free liquors, but every one that I’ve tasted (besides Seedlip) has been uninspiring, to say the least.
Enter Pathfinder, a non-alcoholic spirit made from a distilled hemp-based liquid. Pathfinder has a lot going on, made from Douglas fir, orange peel, ginger, sage, wormwood, juniper, etc. On the palate, it’s similar to an amaro — think Cynar — and is perfect for cocktails. Speaking of, I found this delicious recipe, The Wandering Path, from bartender Jeffrey Morganthaler’s blog. It was created by his business partner, Benjamin Amberg, at their acclaimed bar, Pacific Standard. This sour cocktail is as easy to make as it is delicious.
Specifications
2 ounces Pathfinder
1 ounce fresh grapefruit juice
3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice
1/2 ounce simple syrup (2:1)
1/2 ounce egg white
Execution
Combine all ingredients in a shaker, add ice, shake hard until cold, and double strain into a coupe glass (a sour glass is pictured). No garnish.
