FOCUS ON FOOD
A Proper Mess
A different take on strawberries and cream
Story and Photograph by Rose Shewey
To be perfectly blunt, England hasn’t exactly been at the forefront of culinary excellence. May I be forgiven by those who cherish its cuisine. Perhaps it’s simply that English chefs need assistance choosing more appetizing names. Who wants to dig into a serving of spotted dick? Or take a hearty bite of rumbledethumps or bubble and squeak?
Eton mess, by comparison, is a relatively tame designation — while still managing to be properly unflattering — for a classic, delicious dessert made of berries, whipped cream and meringue. It may be messy, but it’s ingenious in its simplicity with a pleasing balance of flavors and textures. For all the mockery the English endure for their lack of appetizing food — which isn’t completely justified — they sure got this one right.
It is a safe assumption that the boys at Eton College, a prestigious boarding school in England and namesake for this tasty treat, did not suffer many hardships back in the day — and likely still don’t. While the genesis of “Eton mess” is hotly debated, no one seems to argue that it was, in fact, first served to the students in Berkshire about a century ago, thus painting a picture of a pretty sweet school life.
The least plausible but most popular account of the dessert’s origin is the story of pavlovas being served at an annual cricket match in the 1930s between Eton and the boys from Harrow School when a clumsy, or hungry, Labrador knocked over the desserts and smashed them to the ground. Undeterred, the Eton boys dug into the tasty “mess.” Whether Eton mess was a happy accident or a calculated move, we’re loving it all the same.
Eton Mess with Raspberry Coulis
(Serves 4)
5 ounces fresh or frozen raspberries
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 pound fresh strawberries
1 tablespoon sweetener, such as granulated sugar or honey, divided
4 ounces heavy cream
1 teaspoon rosewater (optional)
4 ounces Greek yogurt
5 ounces meringues, store bought or homemade
Make the Coulis
If using frozen raspberries, allow to thaw for about 20 minutes at room temperature. Add raspberries to a tall bowl together with the lemon juice, and puree, using an immersion blender. To get an extra fine sauce, strain through a sieve, transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate.
Make the Eton Mess
Quarter strawberries and add to a large bowl together with 1/2 tablespoon of sweetener. Mash up about half the berries with a fork and set aside. Combine cream with 1/2 tablespoon sugar and rosewater (if using), and whip until firm enough to form soft peaks, then fold in the yogurt. Add cream-yogurt mixture to the fruit and fold it in. Crumble meringue over top and drizzle with raspberry coulis. Serve right away.